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Me 262 model problem: How to blend in replacement engine with wing?


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Hello, everyone.

I'm working on a Revell 1/72 Me 262. I've attached and glued on a resin, replacement engine to the wing. However, after attaching the engine, I noticed there was a long gap that runs between the side of the engine and the kit part. I filled this gap with grey tamiya putty ("basic type") and have sanded it quite a bit, but the surface of the puttied area still looks rough. Any thoughts about how I can improve the appearance of the puttied area? How can I get it to blend in better with the wing? Help! icon_smile.gif

Any advice would be tremendously appreciated!

 

>Jon
Screenshot_2015-05-01-17-14-03_zps6ma0go

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Sand, sand, sand and MORE sanding.

 

I would let that putty REALLY hard cure, (like say for a day or more if you can) then I would coat it with a progressively finer filler like say Mr Surfacer 1500, and sand between coats.

You will build up enough coats to smooth that gap out, and as the Mr Surfacer is VERY fine, it dries very smooth, and will help you even the surface out.

 

Its going to take some elbow grease though. I might try hitting that with some 400 grit wet/dry paper, then move onto 600, and then apply a finish primer like the above mentioned Mr Surfacer 1500, or its equivalent..............Ive also had great luck decanting Tamiyas WONDERFUL Fine white/gray primer as well.

 

 

HTH

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Actually Mark has a good point with the CA.......................the only reason I didnt suggest that is it might be a bit tight to sand that area with super glue.............then again maybe not.  Just dont use accelerator, and/or let the CA dry for too long as it will definitely be MUCH harder to sand at that point.

Edited by Out2gtcha
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If Jon doesn't have a sanding tool to fit it is easy enough to make one.  Something as simple as taping some Emory to a 1/16 or 1/8 inch brass tube, or something.  For the flats something as simple as putting some Emory on double-sided tape.

 

Sincerely,

Mark

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For areas that are difficult to sand and require a fairing appearance I prefer to use Bondo Glazing & Spot Putty. When dry I use some nail polish remover (needs to be the type with acetone and don't use straight acetone) on a Q-tip or cotton bud, depending on where you are located, to go back over the putty. It will soften it and allow you to smooth and blend it into a fillet. You may need to repeat if you end up removing too much but to me the end result is way better than I have ever been able to achieve with sanding, especially in hard to each areas. If you are concerned about the polish remover effecting the plastic, try it first on a sprue or an inside area where it won't be seen but I've yet to have it damage any surfaces. Good luck !

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I would (and often do) use this method for this type of thing:

http://www.arcair.com/tnt1/001-100/TNT029-Filler-WO-Sanding/00.shtm

 

HTH,

D

 

Yeah, that's a great method. There's a variety of combinations of fillers and solvents that will get you there, and they're all well-worth experimenting with.

 

Kev

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Everyone, thank you so much for the great advice! I really appreciate everyone's support. I'm not comfortable with removing the puttied area and replacing it with superglue...I don't have the confidence! I'm very tempted to try using nail-polish remover, as suggested by Old Dog and D Bellis. I've also got a can of Tamiya fine surface primer...is that similar to the Mr Surfacer 1500 that Out2gtcha mentioned? Would spraying some of that stuff onto the puttied area help smooth out the puttied surface at least somewhat? I've tried wet sanding the surface more and the puttied gap looks better now than it did before, but still a bit rough. 

 

Again, I'm very grateful for all the support!

 

>Jon  

Edited by JonOlsen88
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I'm not familiar with either the filler you used or the Tamiya spray primer but I would guess the nail polish remover will work with both assuming the filler is solvent based. Certainly worth at least a quick pass to see what it will do.

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Yes,

From my experience using both, Mr Surfacer 1500 (black/gray) and Tamiya Fine primer (white/gray) are very similar in smoothness after shooting. My personal preference is for Tamiya Fine white, but then again I just got a can of the MS 1500 black, as Im very keen to try the black under effects.

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