Guest Peterpools Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 Chris Here is the link to mark's P-51 currently underway and the detailing is fantastic. Between Mark and Wolf's builds, it's a detailer's paradise. http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=38388&page=9&hl=%2Bp-51+%2Bmustang&do=findComment&comment=617731 Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fooesboy Posted March 23, 2015 Author Share Posted March 23, 2015 Thanks guys for the links, I'll get down to some serious reading shortly! Adding much extra detail is going to present some unique challenges that I'm not sure if I'm up to, the biggest being that I will not be able to "just" drill a couple of holes into a bulk head and insert some wire, as every part of the inside will be on display. This will mean the every wire or hydraulic line would need to be constructed along its complete length... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
322SqnNL Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 Desktop Mustang huh? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fooesboy Posted March 23, 2015 Author Share Posted March 23, 2015 Yea the Desktop Mustang from IMCTH. In the spirit of trying to learn something new I am going to attempt to solder the bulk of the white metal parts of the engine together... My reasoning is that the solder "should" fill the small gaps providing a strong bond without the need for any filler, time will tell but it seams (at least before I have started) to be an interesting option! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
322SqnNL Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 Mustangs are MY favorite Bird so looking so much to this.. Wolf's Mustang build is a must see for yourself. . Good Luck.... I thought it was favorite car Hi Mike & Juli Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alburymodeler Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 Yea the Desktop Mustang from IMCTH. In the spirit of trying to learn something new I am going to attempt to solder the bulk of the white metal parts of the engine together... My reasoning is that the solder "should" fill the small gaps providing a strong bond without the need for any filler, time will tell but it seams (at least before I have started) to be an interesting option! I would test that first just in case the soldering iron melts the actual parts. I seem to recall using Araldite or Superglue on white metal parts of locos, and soldering he brass parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 Nice! Have you seen Johns build of the PE mustang,109 and Zero? Havnt looked for the links to the builds but they are out there in In Progress forums I believe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert Boillot Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 I would test that first just in case the soldering iron melts the actual parts. I seem to recall using Araldite or Superglue on white metal parts of locos, and soldering he brass parts. Can't agree more. Be careful that the melting temperature of the white metal is not lower than the one for solder... Hubert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 Nice! Have you seen Johns build of the PE mustang,109 and Zero? Havnt looked for the links to the builds but they are out there in In Progress forums I believe. Found Johns links to his IMCTH builds: Johns IMCTH Zero Johns IMCTH 109 Johns IMCTH P-51 (couldnt find his WIP for this only the RFI) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fooesboy Posted March 25, 2015 Author Share Posted March 25, 2015 (edited) And here was me thinking that Mustang was a funny name For a girl??? (Don't know why I can't quote the post that I'm replying to???) Cheers Brian for the links, I have seen Johns work (very inspirational stuff), in fact it is his build threads that led me via the google search function to LSP in the first place. And thanks guys for the heads up regarding the melting temperature of the white metal. I will of course be testing on some off cuts before I commit to the parts. I know that most people use CA or 2 part epoxy for this job and I have an abundance of each, but in true Chris style I have a new "tool" some Nokorode flux after watching Paul Budzik's very informative youtube video on soldering and I'm looking for an excuse to try it! Edited March 25, 2015 by Fooesboy Out2gtcha 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 I personally think soldering would be the way to go if the kit could "take the heat"; literally. I dont recall, did John use soldering or CA on his? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 I dont recall, did John use soldering or CA on his? John's were pretty much CA all the way I think. Speaking of whom, where is John these days? Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fooesboy Posted March 25, 2015 Author Share Posted March 25, 2015 OK gang, you may now start your ridicule! The heat from the soldering iron was enough to quickly melt the white metal, on my trial piece if I was very careful and QUICK it would produce a nice joint but just a second too long and the part would melt. I'm not brave enough to try this on the kit parts so I will stick (pun intended) with glue. At this stage I am planning on using epoxy for the larger and heaver main pieces and then thick CA for the add on's. Small update with photos to follow tonight if I manage some bench time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fooesboy Posted March 25, 2015 Author Share Posted March 25, 2015 I personally think soldering would be the way to go if the kit could "take the heat"; literally. I dont recall, did John use soldering or CA on his? John used CA mostly on his kits with some epoxy I think. The PE is stainless steel not nickel plated brass and therefor does not solder so the only option with the PE parts from IMCTH is CA. Out2gtcha 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 John used CA mostly on his kits with some epoxy I think. The PE is stainless steel not nickel plated brass and therefor does not solder so the only option with the PE parts from IMCTH is CA. Ah, good to know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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