Seafire FR47

[thierry laurent]

Hi,

 

here's a short update to let you see how to correct the landing gear doors to get new ones corresponding to the corrected well perimeter. I took a picture after having corrected the first one to let you see the differences.

 

 

As you see this is not really difficult to change the shape. Hopefully, some things may be easy in this build...!

 

And the following picture shows the other side. Use a small squared section diamond file to restore the edge of the door. However, take care as resin is soft!

 

 

I still have to add the prominent rivets on the internal side. Then I'll do the second one. The "funny" part will be the recreation of the retraction mechanism... :-(

[LSP_Paul]

Thierry, That is some very fine detailing on the gear doors  I'm starting to wonder if you're not going to completely scratch build the whole plane by the time you're done 

 

Keep up the great work my friend, it will all be worth it in the end.

 

Paul

[thierry laurent]

Thanks Paul! At least, I'll try!

 

Your post made me think twice about the scratchbuilding aspect and I realized that the work I'm doing is quite similar to the assembly of a vacuformed kit. Indeed, finally, I just kept a dozen of parts of the kit, notwithstanding the fact all of them were considerably modified...! In fact, this project is quite similar to my stalled Sea Fury one. I decided to end the various interrupted projects I have and the Sea Fury will be amongst the ones on the top of the pile. However, considering my building rythm, I think this will be for the next Korean war group build ;-)

 

Hopefully, one day we will get correct kits of the late Spitfire and Seafire...

[thierry laurent]

Aaaaargh!

 

DON'T DO WHAT I DID!!! 

 

It took me nearly eight hours to scratchbuild the three camera windows with their frame and fixing screws. The problem is the diameter. It is too large to "recycle" any existing part. So I had to cut them from 1mm thick clear plastic. It was really a chore because the plastic was brittle and the process was really time-consuming. I put them in a small plastic bag to protect them from scratches... and I succeeded in losing the very small bag!!!! 

 

I guess this occurred on last Monday when I cleaned my library room in which I previously used to store my in progress kit boxes and... I succeeded in losing such parts! Damn it!

 

... and I do not remember seeing them anywhere... I do not understand as I'm not used to lose anything.

 

I DO NOT WANT TO SCRATCHBUILD THIS AGAIN!!! :BANGHEAD2:

[thierry laurent]

Here's the technique I used. I took a new CD cover as I needed a very clear surface. You can see here a failed attempt to get two parallel circles. This was already difficult to get! When I got three correct ones, I scribed the six screws in the border (to simulate the frame fixings) and cut the three disks from the plastic. The time consuming part was the sanding of the edges to get three correctly shaped circles...

 

 

If anybody has an idea to get quicker a similar result, saying I'm interested would be an understatement...

[dodgem37]

 . . . an idea . . . 

I'll bite.

1. Draw center-lines on a piece of paper.

2. Draw your circles over the center-lines.

3. Cut square from rigid clear 'vacuum-wrapped' package.  I don't know the strict term for this clear plastic but it is tough as nails and you can never get it separated from itself or the card stock back board without a machete.

4.Tape down over center-lines.  Securely.

5. Align your template on the center-lines and scribe interior circle first.

6. Align your template on the center-lines and scribe exterior line second.

7.Scribe exterior line until disc is free or can be freed.

 

Another product that can be used is acetate.  I'm using it as the canopy glass for the Bf109F-4Z I'm working on.  Radu uses it for his PE canopies.  Found in all Art stores.

http://www.grafixarts.com/product/duralar-2

 

Just my take.

Sincerely,

Mark

Edited April 10, 2015 by dodgem37

[thierry laurent]

Thanks for the proposal Mark.

 

The technique I finally used to get parallel circles was quite similar.

The problem with acetate is the thickness. I don't know what was the thickness of the actual windows but it was quite thick. So, scribing through the material was not really an option. You can do it for a section of a millimeter but not for a full one.

 

I've flat clear plastic disks (to be used as lights) from MR but unfortunately, the larger ones are still too small!

 

Moreover, I've another problem: the frame! This is why I scribed two parallel circles. If I want to use a thinner clear plastic, I will have to create separate frames to add details such as the screw heads. In such a case, I've yet to find a technique to be able to cut plastic circles with a constant width as I think this is even more difficult than disks...

 

As you see, this is not a simple problem to solve! In any case, I've to find a solution and would prefer avoiding CD covers if possible!

 

Thierry

[Zero77]

I also think it would be easier to work with acetate or any other kind of packaging clear plastic (what we call "blister" in french). It is also rigid but a bit softer and way less brittle than the plastic from CD covers.

I always try to keep a little bunch of these packagings, of various thickness. They are useful to scratch build any clear parts, or simple flat canopy windows, and they even can be used for quick and small vacuforming jobs (i mean really simple, for example forming a small hemi spherical lens on a brush handle).

 

 

For the scribing, i dont know the diameters needed, nor if you're a hunter or a shooter, but if you have some empty brass cases, you can try to make some punching dies with them, sharpening them with sandpaper, and you can use them not as punching dies, but as circular scribers, just pushing and turning them on the plastic. With 2 of the same caliber, you can have 2 different diameters, one sharpened from the inside, and the other sharpened from the outside.

Edited April 10, 2015 by Zero77

[thierry laurent]

Eh, not a bad idea! I've not touched a weapon since I left the army but most of my friends are shooters so this is not a problem to get empty shells! I'll have a look at this. I can use thick acetate if I find a way to make separate frames and in fact I would even get a more accurate result as normally the window is slightly recessed. My CD-method did not allow to reproduce this. I have to think again about this...

[dodgem37]

'. . .  the frame . . .'

Can you punch the window and/or frame?  I have drawn/cut/sanded exterior circles then drilled and filed the interior circle to match my interior guide lines.  If you go this route be sure to check the back of the circle to make sure your circles are in-the-round.  I have found that the guide lines on the front give a false impression of in-the-round.  Viewing the circumference of the circles from the back reveals the truth.

 

I think I did this for the landing gear wheel on the Fw build in my signature.  I know I made an oval in the K-4 build in my signature.  This may be worth a try.

 

I know the material would need to be thin for it to be punched, but if there is nothing keeping you from locating a clear back-plate against the fuselage interior to give an impression of depth this may be a solution.

 

I too would avoid CD covers.  Too brittle.

 

Sincerely,

Mark

[Hubert Boillot]

Thierry,

 

I also think CD covers are too brittle for your purposes. Some hobby shops hold thick (0.75 or 1 mm) acrylique sheets which would be easier to work with. I don't know the diameter of the circles you are trying to cut, but maybe it is 'standard' enough to use some scribing templates or drafting circles (you know, the plastic ones we used as schoolboys for drawing).

 

If you want, I can always cut some concentric masks on my Silhouette cutter to serve as guides for your scribing/cutting fo the transparent sheets. Just PM me if you're interested.

 

Keep it coming

 

Hubert

Edited April 10, 2015 by MostlyRacers

[BloorwestSiR]

Thierry, what about using the stock landing gear legs from the Tamiya Spitfire? Since they're meant to have a metal rod inserted into them, it might be easier to splice two sets together to get the correct length. You would then need to use a longer metal rod for the inner support. This is what I had planned for my build. If you want to try this and need a set of spare gear legs, let me know.

 

For the circular windows, you could use a piece of brass tubing the correct diameter and sharpen the edge in a similar way to the bullet casing. This would work on acetate as I've done it myself using this technique.  

 

Carl

[Out2gtcha]

For the circular windows, you could use a piece of brass tubing the correct diameter and sharpen the edge in a similar way to the bullet casing. This would work on acetate as I've done it myself using this technique.

This is the technique I use. I take the end of the brass tubing and using a brand new #11 blade, I place the blade at 40 - 45 degree angle to the bottom of the tube, and using my other hand holding the tube spin it slightly, and the blade sharpens the tubing so as to make a nice sharp edge that will cut through thin acrylic or acetate sheet.

[thierry laurent]

Thanks for the ideas.

 

The 3 windows I lost were made in a CD cover and I do not want to repeat the operation!!! I used photo-etched circle templates to do this. The normal diameter of the hole (window and frame border) is 8mm. The frame has a width of more or less 1mm.

 

If I could find a source for 0.75 or 1mm acrylic sheet, this would solve the problem! However, even if acetate is softer. It won't be possible to punch through such a thickness.

 

Hubert, thanks for your proposal. I'll think twice about it as if the vinyl is thick enough, this may be an easy way to make the frames. No problem to make three cuts (120 degrees as the frame is made of three sections) but the problem is the six screw holes. I may possibly use a punch & die for the holes?

 

For the LG legs, I'll use the SAC metal copies as the kit will be heavy. I'm not worried by the length of the legs as the kit will have a drop tank, eight rockets and I'm also seriously considering JATO rockets! So, they will be in compressed mode. Nonetheless thanks for the offer!

 

Thierry

[Hubert Boillot]

Do I understand you right if I say you are trying to have three 8mm diameter 1mm thick transparent discs, with a say-1mm-wise frame circle, so that the glass appears recessed compared to this frame. Moreover, you want 6 "screws" spread around this circle. Correct ?

 

I can probably help.

 

Hubert