Daywalker Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 Until now, I have almost exclusively sprayed Tamiya acrylics inside the house, using a Paasche spray booth with the vent leading into the next room of the basement which is mostly unused. I am putting the finishing touches on a new and larger workshop to better accommodate LSP's, and since I am doing some basic upgrades I would like to figure out a way to better vent the fumes from painting. I am also planning to do some more NMF's, so proper venting will be crucial. My new workshop is in the back part of the basement, right next to the washer and dryer. I was looking at the vent for the dryer, and wondering if there was a way to tap into that, without jeopardizing the functionality of the dryer. I am afraid if I tap in to the vent with some sort of "T" junction, that I will then find dryer lint in the vent for the spray booth. I don't really see a way to add another outlet for the spray booth vent, as space in that area is limited. I am wondering if any of you have tried to combine your spray booth vent with a clothes dryer vent, and if so- did it work? How did you accomplish the junction? If you did it and it didn't work, any idea why it didn't? I would love to hear any feedback on this idea or alternatives to it. TIA! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_S Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 Daywalker, You'll want to put a check valve in the spray booth vent line. It's actually called a "backdraft damper" in the realm of HVAC. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Speedi-Products-4-in-Galvanized-Back-Draft-Prevention-Damper-AC-BD-04/202907123 Even with one of these, you still need to be aware that the dryer will probably exhaust much more air (and at a higher pressure) the the spray booth fan. Running both the dryer and the spray booth at the same time may not be an option. In addition, you must be very careful that anything of a flammable nature must not be allowed to creep down the dryer hose. My advice would be to have a dedicated exhaust for the spray booth - Bill Cross 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daywalker Posted February 5, 2015 Author Share Posted February 5, 2015 Thank you Bill for dropping in, good to know it is possible (if not really recommended) as an option. I don't think I have the space for a dedicated spray booth vent, but if that is the only viable option I may have to go that route. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Cross Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 Dedicated vent out a basement window. Remove a pane of glass, then get a fitting for the vent that will go into the space. Affix and then caulk. A dryer vent from Home Depot should work fine (it has for me for 5 years now). Out2gtcha and Bravo52 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daywalker Posted February 6, 2015 Author Share Posted February 6, 2015 Unfortunately, no window down there. Otherwise, a great suggestion! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_S Posted February 6, 2015 Share Posted February 6, 2015 Do you have exposed block above ground level? As long as you stay away from ends and ribs, that stuff is relatively easy to cut through. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted February 6, 2015 Share Posted February 6, 2015 Dedicated vent out a basement window. Remove a pane of glass, then get a fitting for the vent that will go into the space. Affix and then caulk. A dryer vent from Home Depot should work fine (it has for me for 5 years now). Pretty much exactly what I did for my basement set up Bill Cross 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted February 6, 2015 Share Posted February 6, 2015 Interior of the window setup: Exterior set up before mounting in the window: This setup has worked extremely well since I set it up many, many moons ago Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daywalker Posted February 7, 2015 Author Share Posted February 7, 2015 Do you have exposed block above ground level? As long as you stay away from ends and ribs, that stuff is relatively easy to cut through. Hadn't thought of that, will look into that one. Thanks for the idea! Bill_S 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero77 Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 (edited) Interior of the window setup: Exterior set up before mounting in the window: This setup has worked extremely well since I set it up many, many moons ago Your installation is very clean and well designed. However, the mesh enclosure in the outside are 90° from the airflow, and each turn in the airflow decrease it exponentially. The best installation would be with straight tubes from the fans to the outside, though it is almost always impossible. But i think the best test is to spray some very smelly paint, and if the room keeps being free from fumes, it's OK. After all it's the purpose of the paint booth. Edited February 15, 2015 by Zero77 Bill Cross and Out2gtcha 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fooesboy Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 Following on from what Zero77 said above, you need to be mindful of the length of your ducting and the air flow resistance this causes. It is very easy to stall the air in the tube so that the fan is running but no air is exiting the vent, setups on or near the limit can be stalled with changes in conditions outside. i.e wind. Another point to watch is the over spray dust can stain the outside of your home. When doing model cars I have tended to use a lot of red which is exceptionally bad for this, to overcome the problem I built a swirl pot. That is basically a large volume chamber in-line of the ducting where the air speed drops thus allowing the larger and heaver particles to fall out of the air stream. Of course you need a powerful motor that can move a large amount of air. There is quite a bit more detail I can go into if anyone is interested.... Btw this unit has since be pressed into service venting my sand blasting cabinet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 (edited) Your installation is very clean and well designed. However, the mesh enclosure in the outside are 90° from the airflow, and each turn in the airflow decrease it exponentially. The best installation would be with straight tubes from the fans to the outside, though it is almost always impossible. But i think the best test is to spray some very smelly paint, and if the room keeps being free from fumes, it's OK. After all it's the purpose of the paint booth. Following on from what Zero77 said above, you need to be mindful of the length of your ducting and the air flow resistance this causes. It is very easy to stall the air in the tube so that the fan is running but no air is exiting the vent, setups on or near the limit can be stalled with changes in conditions outside. i.e wind. Another point to watch is the over spray dust can stain the outside of your home. When doing model cars I have tended to use a lot of red which is exceptionally bad for this, to overcome the problem I built a swirl pot. That is basically a large volume chamber in-line of the ducting where the air speed drops thus allowing the larger and heaver particles to fall out of the air stream. Of course you need a powerful motor that can move a large amount of air. There is quite a bit more detail I can go into if anyone is interested.... Btw this unit has since be pressed into service venting my sand blasting cabinet. Both very true statements. However, In my situation with a brick foundation there was no option to cut any straight holes, and I dindnt want to cut into the overhang and the window was the easiest option that I could remove if so desired at a later date for dismantle or cleaning. I did a LOT of research on the CFM that the two 120mm fans push with the larger motors and in combination with the venturi effect on the outside producing a bit of draw helping the fans out the CFM is actually pretty decent, and seems to overcome the length of the tubes itself. Im also keenly aware of the 90deg angle problem which is exactly why I dont have any of them. Although the ending faces of the vent exits sit at that angle I found that the REAL issue is when you have actual 90 bends in your ducting and not gradual a smooth bend as the air-flow seems to REALLY get disturbed and fouled. The combination of the powerful fans in the Artograph both, and the slight venturi effect I found my system produces when the fans are on kicks up enough pressure that after many dry run tests with this set up, I found that each and every time the system is turned on, it throws the two one way dryer vents open as far as they will go, and there is a VERY heavy volume of air that ends up coming directly out of the outside vents. The only real problem I have found is not the air-volume, nor how much air the system can push, NOR is it the bends in the ducting (I found as long as they are smooth curves and not bends or kinks there is not that much restriction in the system) I found the real issue is going to be particulate. Over time with the amount of ducting I have there is going to be particulate settling, and I will either have to replace the ducting or dismantle it all for a proper cleaning at some point in the future. Edited February 15, 2015 by Out2gtcha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Cross Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 Not to be a downer, but I would put some kind of reinforcement behind the vent assembly so a bad guy can't kick it in and gain access to your house. Just sayin'. Zero77 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fooesboy Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 Hi Brian, Your set up looks like it has been thoroughly thought out and excellently executed. Maybe you could post a photo or 2 showing the booth, fan and all the piping. I for 1 would be very interested to see as I'm always looking at ways to improve on my work spaces. The porpoise of my post was to point out to someone who is still in the design phase of their spray both to realize that their options on how they could go about ducting / venting will have a lot to do with the rest of the system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 Not to be a downer, but I would put some kind of reinforcement behind the vent assembly so a bad guy can't kick it in and gain access to your house. Just sayin'. Yeah I thought about that, but the steel framing I used for the dryer vent inserts is actually the same one that was initially used for the window, I just replaced the glass with some reinforced ply. It also has a hardened steel divider between the window plates, so its actually a bit more resistant to bad guys than with glass in it. Said bad guy will need to be less than 12" wide as well to fit through either opening on each side of the steel divider. Although not super resistant, I think its probably no less intruder proof than it was before I modified it and removed the old single pane glass. Zero77 and Bill Cross 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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