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1/18 SBD-5 Dauntless - update 18/11/16 - FINISHED!!


richdlc

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Rich,

 

I truly dont know what to say. I cant imagine how you stay so focused and execute everything with such detail and accuracy. Kudos to you Bud...it doesnt get any better.

 

Best

Geoff

 

thanks Geoff - coming from a modeller as skilled as you that's a real compliment!

 

Amazing work Rich. I've just bought this set myself... now you've made me have to rethink my whole approach. I don't suppose there's any chance you you recording a video of how you work/adhere the pewter? I think it would be fascinating! where do you get the pewter sheet from? 

 

many thanks!

 

Hi - working with metal isn't as daunting as you might think.  Recently, there has been a real interest in skinning models with real metal. One of our own members, Peter Castle (who owns the Airscale instrument panel decals / etched detail sets company) has been scratch building a 1/24 Tigercat and has helpfully provided a handy tutorial, here:

 

http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=56522&p=683956

 

this will tell you all you need to know, and if not I am happy to help.  The first thing to do though is get all the necessary tools.

 

And I get the pewter from sylmasta

 

http://www.sylmasta.com

 

it is very expensive.  For large, flat areas you might be better off using thin lithographic plate

 

x4 !

 

Hubert

 

thanks Hubert, glad you like!

Edited by richdlc
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  • 1 month later...

**UPDATE 12/02/16**

 

Hi - it's been quite a while since my last update, and quite a lot has happened.

 

First of all, I finished off the forward gunaccess panels / IP coaming assembly. In these two images you can see the old SBD-3 style coaming with telescopic gunsight, and the newer style applicable to the SBD-5.  

 

Screen%20Shot%202014-12-13%20at%2015.03.

 

 

Screen%20Shot%202016-01-06%20at%2022.42.

 

Many of my reference pics are of restored machines, so I can't be 100% sure if I've modified mine correctly.  However, the general consensus seemed to be to cut it down, and fill in any holes. The basic shape is now there for further detailing. It was necessary to do this before attaching to the fuselage. Oh yes - and I radically thinned down the leading edge: as in other areas of this kit, it was way too thick.  Because I'd forced the fuselage halves together in certain areas, I had to widen the IP coaming at the rear, and add quite a lot of plastic scrap and filler once it was in place.

 

IMG_1165_zps07sqcn9s.jpg

 

IMG_1167_zps34psyn3h.jpg

 

This view shows the bottom of the part - at front are the bun troughs for the forward fifties. These can be partly seen through the open engine access panels, so I added a few details with riveted pewter, and plastic. On the right, the butts of the forward fifties which protrude into the cockpit.  Minimal detailing was required as not much of them can be seen.

 

IMG_1166_zpsvl8mniqx.jpg

 

The part could then be attached permanently:

 

IMG_1779_zpsonwicrbr.jpg

 

Next up - skinning!  I've now covered 80% of the fuselage with pewter panels. One of the major downsides to this kit is the fact that every single rivet is recessed - an unforgivable error in this scale as the exact opposite is the case on the real aircraft.  I knew right from the start that I would have to skin the aircraft in metal.  I did try and follow Peter (Castle from Airscale's) example as seen on his Tigercat build, and use litho plate. However, after a few experiments I reached the conclusion that it isn't for me - at least not on curved areas. It just isn't malleable, or forgiving enough for my tastes.That's not to say I wouldn't use it on large, flat areas like the wings - but for now I am using up my stash of pewter.

 

Enough talking - here are some pics:

 

IMG_1770_zpsxzkxmx3p.jpg

 

IMG_1772_zpsaxbhoxhn.jpg

 

IMG_1773_zpslzebsx4g.jpg

 

IMG_1835_zps3wbhaehl.jpg

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IMG_1837_zps1hrrs7ss.jpg

 

You may have noticed this detail:

 

SBD%20033_zpsluyic3at.jpg

 

These small sliding doors were added to late model Dauntlesses that had been fitted with twin 0.50 cal rear guns. The kit, representing an earlier model, does not have these. To add them required chopping a section out of the fuselage on either side, and then scratching the doors and their rails from petwer. Here you can see one sie done. The topmost rails will attach to the bottom of the gun storage tunnel's doors: 

 

IMG_1776_zpsemw8euye.jpg

 

You can see on this image the modified cooling slot openings characteristic of the SBD-5 (the earlier models of Dauntless had shorter, fatter ones).  I'll add the mealwork for these later.

 

IMG_1770_zpsxzkxmx3p.jpg

 

Finally for this update, here's a photo of the giant 1/18 etched dive flap set that I had especially made at huge expense…at bottom right is the 1/32 version for size comparison:

 

IMG_1841_zpsubf5gvl0.jpg

 

and again, little and large versions:

 

IMG_1842_zpsstblmbba.jpg

 

But that's a story for another time!

 

Final image - a quick test fit. Starting to look like a real plane now!

 

IMG_1845_zps0drxzfex.jpg

 

Regards

Rich

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Rich

Simply amazing work and the PE set ... what dedication to detail

Keep 'em coming

Peter

 

thanks peter. my wallet took a hit, but it's the only real way to do it in my opinion...

 

Those look fantastic...... I kinda wish there were seatbelt buckles....dive brake actuators... and vented barrels for the rear 50s/30....your build looks sharp!!!

 

thanks Rob - Ive already scratch built the rear twin 0.50 cals and used brass barrels:

 

IMG_4182_zpsy004jxv3.jpg

 

Just unbelievable ! Great job.......Harv :popcorn:

 

many thanks Harv!!

 

Very cool! The natural wavy texture of the metal looks remarkably like the real skin of a well-worn plane.

 

Thanks Tim. That's the beauty of working with thin metal, although it can be overdone. Pewter is very soft, and I think I've gone a little overboard in places - but under a coat of paint the effect will diminish somewhat. It's not entirely appropriate over the whole airframe so I must be careful.

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More matal mania, yeah! Great work, Rich.

 

May I ask where you got the pewter from? I bought some from a dental supply shop, it's 99,8% pure, but hellishly expensive. I could as well use gold... I would be very interested in a cheaper source fpor that stuff.

 

Cheers

Rainer

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Looks great!!!!

 

 

"**UPDATE 12/02/16**"

 

lol - I looked at that and thought it was an update I hadn't seen since December 2nd - 12/2/16;

 

**UPDATE 12/02/16** or as we put it, 02/12/16

Edited by Out2gtcha
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