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1/32 P-38L "Kicked Up A Notch". Jan 15/16: FINISHED!


chuck540z3

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Precise and painstaking work Chuck.

 

I think the highest accolade I can offer is that this no longer looks like a Trumpeter kit. Gone are the soft panel and rivet lines to be replaced by crisp, sharp details.

 

That front view shot is delightful. You've managed to create a real feeling of weight my friend. This thing is beginning to look every inch a show winner. Keep at it.

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Great creative fix on the wheel - I'd never have thought of that. Also taking notes on your method of filling gaps with styrene, particularly waiting days for it to cure ... never would've thought of doing that. Threads like this are why I'm such a fan of this community.

 

Cheers

Jim

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Chuck-

Love the work on this girl, awesome update. Looks like the rescribing of all of those mismatched panel is gonna be a pain in the @ss, but should be no problem considering your skills.

Please keep the updates coming.....

THOR   :ninja:

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Thank you everyone for your kind comments!  As is my style, I don't usually respond to every post unless it's a specific question, because I find it clutters up the thread with repetitive posts.  Nonetheless, I do read each response thoroughly and appreciate all the comments.

 

Cheers,

Chuck

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Hey guys, I've been asked a few questions over at ARC about how I take my model pics, so I thought I would share them here for anybody who might be interested.  I wrote a "Model Photography For Dummies" thread in the Tools and Tips Forum a few years ago that should answer most if not all of them.  Others chimed in, so you may find the thread useful here:

 

"Model Photography for Dummies"


My current set-up is either my Nikon D610 or D810 full frame DSLR, using a 60 mm Nikkor Micro (Macro) lens, mounted on a tri-pod.  I keep the aperture as tight as possible to get maximum depth of field, which on this lens is either F36 or even F40, so my exposure times are long at 1 or 2 seconds at ISO 64-100- hence the tripod.  I also use a timer so that there is no camera shake while I take the pic.  I used to bracket 3 pics of one f stop under exposed, normal and 1 f stop over exposed, then pick the best one and delete the other two.  What I'm using now is the "HDR" (High Dynamic Range) setting that takes two pics, which exposes the dark areas properly with one pic, then takes another pic exposing the lighter areas correctly, then the camera stitches the two pics together into one.  This seems to work perfectly about 90% of the time, but even if it doesn't, post processing on my computer using ordinary Windows Live Photo Gallery (free on Windows 7+) corrects any exposure problems.  Real photographers will insist on using RAW format so that you have total control over photo editing, but I just use Fine jpg format.  With 36 mp on my D810, the jpg files are already HUGE at up to 30 mb each, so recording at RAW up to 50 mb each is overkill, especially when every pic is shrunk down to 1,600 pixels wide to fit most computer screens.  Photobucket pic hosting, which I use, shrinks the pics down further to 1,024 pixels wide, so the final product has only about 5% of the information originally recorded.  One really cool thing about using a full frame camera and sharp lens is that I can zoom into any small area of the photograph and still have a clear and sharp pic, which is effectively a digital zoom without the need for a real zoom lens.  

I also have one of those collapsible "Photo Booths" where I place my models to take the pics.  They have natural neutral lighting and a variety of colored backgrounds.  I used the blue background for most of the pics so far, but with the wings attached to the booms, I've had to widen it so that it will fit inside, which reveals a lot of background that you would not normally see.  For the pics above I went with a white background to balance the light a bit more, but when I take final pics of the finished model I create a totally different setup with poster paper and lighting that is too large and cumbersome to have set up full time.
 

Here's some demo pics to show you what an HDR (High Dynamic Range) setting can do.

In this first pic, I'm using spot metering on the darker area on the front fuselage within the red box.  The fuselage is exposed properly, but the top of the wing and the silver box I'm using to protect the cockpit is over exposed.


HDR1.jpg



In this next pic, I'm using the brighter area on the silver box as my exposure area instead.  Now the top of the wing looks OK, but the fuselage and other areas are underexposed.



HDR2.jpg



Now if I used the entire area as what the exposure meter should read instead of spot metering, I'd get a compromise of some areas too light, while other areas would be a bit too dark.  Using HDR, and still using the area on top of the wing for my exposure area, the camera calculates the correct exposure for this lighter area and takes a pic, then it calculates what the exposure should be for darker areas and takes another pic- then it "stitches" the two pics together to get this, which is much better.


HDR3.jpg



Now you can still manipulate the overexposed and underexposed pics on the computer to make them better, but the HDR pic takes the hassle out of that and you still get a better result overall.


Now some examples of zooming in on the pic inself without using a zoom lens.  With a full frame sensor, tight aperture (high f stop, F36 in this case) and good lens, here's a 50% zoom in shot.


Zoom1.jpg


50% more


Zoom2.jpg


50% more....


Zoom3.jpg


and 50% more....



Zoom4.jpg



Now another shot what we started with.  Its amazing what a good camera can do!



HDR3.jpg

 

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That's fantastic, Chuck! Thanks so much for posting your mini tutorial. Photography is one area I've been working hard to improve in the last couple of years, but I've clearly got a long way to go! As you say, a good camera helps, and sadly that's where I'm let down a bit. I also struggle with the technicalities, but perhaps one day I'll have the time to sit down and learn them properly.

 

Kev

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