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1/32 Electric Intruder - Grumman EA-6A Conversion


allthumbs

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Rich, once again, awesome attention to detail. The scribing is top notch, especially where the lines intersect. I use the same technique for rivet holes except for the use of the razor blade. Will have to try one out for that purpose as I've been using sandpaper till now and it always makes for a long process.

 

Elmo

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  • 5 months later...

Air intakes...they suck!

 

Crude pun aside, these inlets, in particular the interior ducting that channels air to the engine's compressor, are often the bane of many a jet modeler's existence. If the kit manufacture supplies one at all, it's usually a multi part affair requiring tedious filling and sanding to achieve "seamlessness." Indeed, a cottage industry exists to address this very concern, usually in the form of a one piece resin replacement.

 

Recently, one such supplier released a set for the Trumpeter A-6 Intruder. It was discussed and reviewed on this site a few weeks ago...http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=59418. It looks good and will no doubt be a time saver. But, as I had already begun work in this area using the kit supplied parts, I elected to continue down this path, now with the added insurance that if I make a mess of things, a fallback exists (my other fallback is the AMS (by Harold) ground covers http://store.spruebrothers.com/product_p/ams32087.htm ;).

 

Given the limitations of injection molding, Trumpeter managed to provide a pair of fairly accurate and complete Intakes that include the complex "S" shaped ducting that extends a scale seven feet to engine facings, the latter comprised of a bullet fairing, guide vanes and first stage compressor - not bad, as these things go.

 

Here's a look at what you get...

 

8SXfRl9.jpg

 

64c9HWA.jpg

 

EC3NIol.jpg

 

AIJM1T1.jpg

 

As you can see in the last photo, Trumpeter, true to form, provide whole engines, which can be viewed from below through open access doors, if the modeler chooses.

 

Now, as it turns out the the intakes on the real aircraft are not seamless!

 

Well sort of...to illustrate, here are some pictures of the real deal...

 

kYLOUkJ.jpg

 

WT3TaR6.jpg

 

ZtPmb8L.jpg

 

These pictures are of EA-6B Prowlers, and while there exist detail differences (more on these later) the basic geometry and design of the air intakes are the same across all versions.

 

Notice in the picture of the removed engine, a 32 inch long cylindrical shroud, dingy white in color, remains attached to the front of the engine. When the engine is re-installed in the airframe, this section slides into the intake trunk creating a prominent (and not-so-aerodynamic) step.

 

Trumpeter depicts this interface, but rather crudely, as seen here...

 

A9Q5UfL.jpg

 

What can done about it? For starters, the cylinder section can be backed out a little (it's designed to insert about 5mm into the main body) so that the dimensions and tapers are more closely matched. This helps some, but the fit is still too loose. Some thin walled brass tubing might do, but I couldn't find the right size.

 

In the end, I decided to enlarge the kit supplied parts. The forward half of the tube was spliced in four places and then spread apart with plastic shim stock, as shown here...

 

nGBnf8y.jpg

 

After clean up and re-shaping (to help restore a circular cross section), I was able to attain a nice tight compression fit...

 

mmjqWkq.jpg

 

Next up, the engine facings...

 

Thanks as always for looking, and "Happy New Year" to all my friends and acquaintances on the forum :)

 

Rich

Edited by allthumbs
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Thanks Mike and Mark and Jim. I appreciate your kind words!

 

On to the part that really sucks - or squeezes according to the old adage - the compressor section. Of course, looking down the intake, all we see is the first stage in a series of compressor discs, this section partly obscured behind a set of inlet guide vanes and the large "bullet" fairing for the shaft.

 

But a picture (or two) is worth at least a thousand silly words...

 

yXjWCJH.jpg

 

N94VfAL.jpg

 

Note the detail differences between Intruder and Prowler engines: the shape of the bullet fairing, the number of guide vanes, and finally the position of the small air data probes. The heavier EA-6B benefited from the additional thrust of the P-408, as did later Skyhawk variants (the A-4F "Super Fox" and the M/N models). Not surprisingly, most of the "good" engine pictures you see online are of EA-6B's, as these aircraft remained in service through the digicam era.

 

Again, Trumpeter deserves credit for their attempt. They provide separate parts for the bullet cone (well done), the IG vanes (okay, but kind of thick), and the front compressor disc in brass (not so impressive)...

 

EC3NIol.jpg

 

Put together, it looks like this...

 

ryotT5h.jpg

 

Yes, compared to the reference photos, it looks a bit crude. But, given that these parts, once installed, literally lurk in the shadows, we shouldn't be too quick to condemn. Nevertheless, I set out to improve the look of this area with some scratch building and parts substitution from the spares bin.

 

First off: "the heist." The compressor disc was replaced by a fan section from a Revell 1/144 Boeing 767 kit - it fits just right and even has the correct number of blades - 32 for the "blade counters" among us ;).

 

Score!

 

Lt80smD.jpg

 

The spinner was sawed off and discarded. Next, a groove was scribed into the facing (make sure your circle template is aligned properly - you only get one chance at it!). Into this channel was laid a stretched sprue "ring" that simulates the stiffening devices (“mid-span shroud” in turbine engine parlance) of the real deal.

 

See here...

 

3nMucvg.jpg

 

Im6Wo1R.jpg

 

continued...

Edited by allthumbs
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Thanks Barry!

 

On to some of the more visible aspects of the air intakes, starting with the boundary layer ramps...

 

The kit parts are a little undersized and lack the distinctive bevel design seen in these photographs...

 

R1jEv4z.jpg

 

4H5M0sV.jpg

 

After two failed attempts at improving the ramps, I finally hit on a technique that worked. Version 3.0 is a brass and plastic laminate, the former provides strength and rigidity, the latter a more submissive medium for shaping and sanding.

 

Here are the blanks after being cut to shape...

 

vZidFKM.jpg

 

The brass and plastic pieces, bonded together with super glue, are block sanded to achieve a square edge...

 

KyeADFm.jpg

 

Appropriately sized brass discs were punched from shim stock. Tack glued to the ramps, they provide a sanding template that helps achieve consistent radii for the corners...

 

8a0WwTF.jpg

 

p1FvI6Q.jpg

 

wBuiDdb.jpg

 

Another brass template is used to help create the sweeping bevel...

 

5RQcMwS.jpg

 

DBzltmM.jpg

 

continued...

Edited by allthumbs
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The intake ramps and brass template were placed into a makeshift sanding jig to facilitate the shaping and finishing process...

UdbTkcV.jpg

 

 

And here are some pics of the finished ramps, the low light of a setting sun accentuating the effect...

QTE59o1.jpg

 

RAoB8au.jpg

 

54GUplO.jpg

 

 

You can see from the pictures that the ramps are shaped from over-sized blanks. This helped in handling the pieces during the shaping process. I'll cut off and discard the excess material later...

CzhVSQJ.jpg

 

Thanks for looking!

 

Rich

Edited by allthumbs
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