mywifehatesmodels Posted October 31, 2014 Author Share Posted October 31, 2014 Thanks, guys! Looking good. I wonder if that nasty wing seem could be made better by gluing the lower wing half to the joint, then the upper then glue the halves together? You know, Ron, that's very possible and probably most likely to work. Knowing what I know now....hindsight being 20/20....blah, blah, blah, yada, yada, yada..... John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mywifehatesmodels Posted October 31, 2014 Author Share Posted October 31, 2014 (edited) I'll go ahead and apologize, up front, for jumping around to different parts. At this point in the build it may seem that I'm not really taking a linear approach and I guess that's because I'm not! I did manage to get the seams on the undersides of the wings smoothed out, last night. It actually went really well and even better when I realized (after almost perfecting one complete seam) that only about two thirds of the seam actually has to look good, because the spats are going to over a majority of it, anyway! I just finished working on the wingtip seams, as well. My daughter is currently working on a model dinosaur (coming soon to the Non-LSP sub-forum!) and she told me that she "hates all this filling and sanding". I tried to advise her about the benefits and how it's just a part of building models. I have to admit that I'm starting to share her frustration, though. To get away from seam filling for a while, I also started preparations for the main wheels and the spinner. I made molds of the kit spinner, as well as for the Trumpy P-40 spinner and will try to come up with some sort of improved version from all of that. I want to avoid cutting/sanding any stock kit parts, if possible, hence the resin copies. Speaking of resin, I just ordered some more this morning. I just checked and I do have a tiny bit left, but not sure if it will be enough for the spinners and the wheels, yet. I also made a master of one of the main wheel/tires and that mold is curing right now. I think I'll start with that, since it will allow me to continue with the landing gear and spats (assuming I have enough resin to cast two good examples). Going back to the spinner for a bit; here is a profile of the kit spinner attached. Also, the back side of the base plate of the kit spinner, which shows a protrusion that would make a gap between the spinner and fuselage/cowl. Of course, there should be a very slight gap between the two, but this spacer was almost 1mm thick, so I sanded it off to sit closer to flush, as seen in the profile photo. In the end I may end up using a different part, anyway, but this bothered me! I'll post more info and progress on the spinner situation as things progress. For now, I'm still not entirely sure of how or what method will end up producing the best example, but at least I have a few ideas and suggestions to pursue. That's a start, anyway. Thanks! John Edited October 31, 2014 by mywifehatesmodels Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted October 31, 2014 Share Posted October 31, 2014 Nice work. Your build gives me ants-in-my-pants to do my Revell Stuka. Sincerely, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karimb Posted October 31, 2014 Share Posted October 31, 2014 Looking forward to more of the build John Karim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mywifehatesmodels Posted October 31, 2014 Author Share Posted October 31, 2014 (edited) Thanks, guys! Nice work. Your build gives me ants-in-my-pants to do my Revell Stuka. Sincerely, Mark Mark, I've been thinking, too, about doing the entire family, eventually. I think I would probably go with Revell, or do a kitbash of Trumpy/Revell for the B and/or possibly the nose correction (if it's even still available) for the Trumpy kit. I've actually seen some pretty nice Stukas based on the Revell kit. I would love to see what you could do with it! I did test casting of the wheel. I had air bubbles in the mold, so there are a couple of trouble spots. The one at the top is no big deal, since it won't be seen, but the rim at the bottom also has a chunk missing that will be visible. At this point, I think I may be able to just patch it in, being that it's so small. Not sure that I want to make another complete mold for it and there's no guarantee that it wouldn't happen again, either. I also did the first prototype for the spinner. Before I show the horrid pics, I must throw out the disclaimer that the resin is old, the bottles had just been shaken and I should have let them settle longer, as there were a ton of bubbles. However, the overall outline is what I was really interested in, even if the surface isn't so great. I casted one of each spinner (Stuka and P-40), then cut off the tips of both and put the P-40 tip on the 87 Spinner's back half. Again, this is the very first prototype (there could be many!) and is VERY rough, but it gives an idea of where it's heading. You guys tell me what you think. I then paitned it black for a little better contrast to show the overall shape. However, the seam stands out more this way, because I didn't sand it completely smooth, but you get the picture. Compared to the stock spinner. As you can see, they're still pretty much the same length. The prototype is a hair shorter, but it still needs to come down a little bit. I haven't compared it by laying it on a photo of the real thing yet, but I do believe it's heading in the right direction. Also, I could have made it a little shorter, as I cut the new tip back just a little bit behind the panel line. If I cut it exactly to to the panel line, I should decrease the overall length by about 1mm. Looks are deceiving, as I'm finding out. Even having the slightly more pointed tip gives the impression that it's a lot shorter than it is, until you compare the two side by side. Thanks again for the encouragement! John Edited October 31, 2014 by mywifehatesmodels Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alain11 Posted October 31, 2014 Share Posted October 31, 2014 Hi Wow !! what a job !! you didn't choose the easiest way to fix this spinner .I think you should rework the profile , it seems that it has a more conical shape ( my two bucks opinion ), this way you will make it shorter and more pointy .. easy Alain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Hunt Posted November 1, 2014 Share Posted November 1, 2014 (edited) Let me start by saying nice work. Really enjoying the thread. I didn't want to start mine any time soon but you have inspired me to see if I can fix the nose.Secondly, I'm coming to the opinion that the easiest way to fix the spinner is to replace it. I can't seem to get enough of the curve out of mine. I've filled it and am turning it until it looks right...doesn't quite yet.Anyway I am dubbing this FrankenStuka...seasonally appropriate. Edited November 1, 2014 by LSP_Kevin karimb and Kagemusha 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kagemusha Posted November 1, 2014 Share Posted November 1, 2014 Brian Fawcett has a spinner as part of his B-2 correction set, I'm sure he'd sell it separately http://www.fawcettmodelsandpatterns.co.uk/1-32-junkers-ju-87-b2-r2-correction-set Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mywifehatesmodels Posted November 1, 2014 Author Share Posted November 1, 2014 Thanks, everyone! Alain, I'm still not so sure of what the final method will be for mine. I was leaning towards what Bruce said, from the beginning, in that it would be better off to just replace the spinner, rather than turning one from the kit part. However, Bruce, I must say that your example does look much better, so far. I especially like the work you've done around the exhaust. I knew this was slightly off, but didn't want to dive into splicing up the nose for this build. Great work and it's great to see someone else taking a crack at this, as well. Andy, I think that if I were going to do a B-2, Brian's correction set would surely be the way to go. As for the spinner, I know that they were a different shape from the A to the B, also. Late yesterday, I used the very last of what resin I had left to try another prototype spinner. For prototype #2, I did basically the same thing as #1 but took a little more material out of it to reduce the length. However, I still came up against the same curvature issue that Bruce touched on above. So, I've started to try sanding out the shape. I'll post photos when I've taken it as far as a I can. I still consider this to be a practice run and don't know if it's what I will settle on. Thanks again to everyone for their comments. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mywifehatesmodels Posted November 1, 2014 Author Share Posted November 1, 2014 I've just finished working on spinner prototype #2 and this is probably as far as I can take it, at least for the moment. This was acheived by using the same grafting idea (P-40 tip on 87 back half), then trying to sand/contour to an acceptable shape. I still think I could go a hair shorter in overall length and possibly even a touch sharper at the tip. Here are a couple pics. The second one showing a comparison to the real thing. Of course, the two are not exactly the same size image, or from exactly the same angle. For now, it's just "close enough" to give me an idea of whether I'm headed in the right direction. When I get more resin, I'll be trying another approach. I'm going to take a cast of the entire P-40 spinner and turn that down. The P-40 spinner has a lot more material on it to work with, so it might make for a better start. The backplate of the 87 spinner sits inside of the P-40 spinner to a point that would just allow the prop blades through as they should be. Of course, it's thicker on the outside than the base of the 87 spinner would be, but this will give me a lot more to work with in getting the correct curvature and profile. So, that will likely be prototype #3. Until then, I'm going to start working on the spats and changing their outline, as well. Wish me luck! John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mywifehatesmodels Posted November 1, 2014 Author Share Posted November 1, 2014 I'm making progress on the spats. So far, the spats, themselves, have gone easier than I expected. However, I did run into an issue with the gear/wheels. More on that in a bit, though. First off, I started looking at the best profile shots of the spats that I had. As I mentioned earlier, there seems to be some variation on the angles involved here and it's hard to find photos taken from a perfect profile perspective. After printing and checking several photos, I decided to take off about 20 degrees, using the front portion of the spat as a datum line. I drew an outline of the kit part, then marked off my lines before marking the part and adding tape. I cut them along the taped line, using a straightedge as a guide, as well. I'll be saving the cut off portions to splice them back in later. This will save me a little more work making new ones. After the cuts were made, I checked everything with the main gear/wheel installed. The other strut arms have been left off for now, but there are locators for everything, so I just used the main strut. However, after I looked at this a few times and compared it with photos, something was still wrong. It took me a bit to figure out what it was. The wheel actually sits too far to the rear within the spat. So, I moved it slightly forward and tacked it into place to check it. This looked much better and a test fit to the bottom of the wing gives a better impression, as well. I should also add that the seam between the spat and the wing is not going to be as bad as I thought it would. It will require some filler, but I shouldn't need to shim anything as I feared. Still plenty of work to do, but the spats are off to a good start. Thanks for everything! John Artful69, Mal_Belford and Iain 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted November 1, 2014 Share Posted November 1, 2014 Great work John! The spats look much better now. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert Boillot Posted November 1, 2014 Share Posted November 1, 2014 From the pics, it seems you are getting close with your spinner... It still looks a bit 'flat' at the back plate. The spinner on the photo shows a continuous curve, when yours displays a 'kink' in the last mm ahead of the backplate. Looking at the original photo, I also feel, but I could be wrong, that the kit's upper nose is 'plunging' towards the spinner, ahead of the scoop, when the photo indicates a flatter profile. Even though German WWII is not my cup of tea, interesting project to follow. You are doing a great job of it, John. Hubert mywifehatesmodels 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted November 1, 2014 Share Posted November 1, 2014 From the pics, it seems you are getting close with your spinner... It still looks a bit 'flat' at the back plate. The spinner on the photo shows a continuous curve, when yours displays a 'kink' in the last mm ahead of the backplate. Looking at the original photo, I also feel, but I could be wrong, that the kit's upper nose is 'plunging' towards the spinner, ahead of the scoop, when the photo indicates a flatter profile. I'm tending to agree with Hubert here. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alain11 Posted November 1, 2014 Share Posted November 1, 2014 Hi Yeaaaah !! it's amazing how the spats look better , it seems now obvious !!!! You really got a good sense of observation !!!! If could add somethings about the spinner , you are close to the truth , even if some little things must be fixed , in my opinion , it's not enough pointy , and as said upward , there is an issue with the back plate , it seems that the spinner is an extension of the cowl lines , without no break .....well , if i dare to say ..... you should fix the shape from the kit spinner itself ....... as I said before : you didn't choose the easiest way ....sorry Alain mywifehatesmodels 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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