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1/32 Tamiya F4U-1A

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I have been examining my Corsair kit and I have concluded that the later style landing light is in fact, included in the kit.  At least the lens is.  From reading my references, it is true that the landing light was moved on most -1A's to the leading edge of the left wing.  Tamiya has, from what I'm seeing in the instructions, given us the clear lens for what was then called an approach light.  It is part P6 and is installed in the outer left wing panel just outboard of the wing fold.  There is another such clear piece, P5 on the right wing which I am thinking is the gun camera lens.  Now all we have to do is find a convincing and relatively easy way to eliminate the underwing light and add the rib/tape detail.  The fabric texture is not that noticeable and if we're careful, we may be able to add what looks to be a length of strip to match the triangular (cross section) shape I'm seeing on the wing.  I'm nowhere near building this kit yet but when I do, I'm going to do just that and see what happens.  Take note that there are very fine details at the aft end of each of the rib details which look like drain hole grommets but I don't have my magnifiers on at the moment so I cannot be entirely sure.  Anyway, that's my take on the landing light situation and a possible fix for those of us who'd like to model later bureau no. F4U-1A's. 

 

REFERENCES:

 

Kinzey, Bert. 1998. F4U Corsair in Detail & Scale, Vol. 55, Part I, XF4U through F2G. Squadron/Signal Publications, TX  p. 31

 

Morrissey, Rafe and Hegedus, Joe. 2010. The Vought F4U Corsair, A Comprehensive Guide. SAM Publications, Bedford, United Kingdom. p. 34

Edited by Juggernut

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Dana Bell previously posted on HS that all you need to do is paint the light lens the underside color, as he said that they just put a metal plate over the hole when the light was moved for lots of "1A" airframes.

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Thanks for the info on the Bu Nos Jennings.  I decided just for the heck of it to thumb through the books and see if I could spot any tail #'s and found a few.

 

Tom Blackburn's Big Hog VERY fuzzy, but maybe 17649???

Mel Kurlander is standing next to 17677

Whit Wharton's Lil Julie 17678

Chico Freeman's LA City Limits 17932

 

Pete

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I've seen a great method for covering the landing light, a friend of mine has done this on 1/48 scale kits and the method works well. He glues in the light lens and fills the seam with Mr. Surfacer, which he wipes smooth with the appropriate thinner.

 

That gets rid of the circular seam. He then uses several layer of thick decal paper to replace the ribs.

 

On a 1/32 kit perhaps thin strips of plastic card can be used. This method eliminates any need to sand any fabric detail off. No sanding is required.

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If you're doing LA City Limits, note that I'm pretty sure (unlike almost every decal shows you) that the art is only on one side.  One of my pet peeves is that decal artists often assume that every piece of nose art was duplicated on both sides, when it rarely was.  And if it was, it was almost *never* exactly the same.  Something that's hand painted can't be exactly the same.  It's far too easy to copy and paste using decal design software, and it's especially too easy to simply mirror image something.

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Thank you URS  I'm not sure how i missed Eagle CAL decals :hmmm:    I just received an order from them to :doh: 

Funny thing is to I was going to hold off getting the new F4U-1A. But all these great builds going on. My nick name being Chico and living so close to LA :whistle: I just ordered one. Dam no will power :wub:

 

Cheers

Danny

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Don't forget to check Hobbylink Japan, hlj.com, who are a sponsor here. With the strong dollar against the yen, I got the -1A for less than $84US on their Black Friday sale, plus shipping which worked out to be about $37 when shipped along with a Raiden, so a good deal!

Even at regular prices, the -1A is under $93US, so is a great price even considering the $37 for EMS shipping (which again is actually for two kits).

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