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putty for resin


strez

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Ive used Perfect Putty on resin figure...

 

if it is very smal sutface defect ive used Tamiya putty....

 

As one mentioned it shrinks if it is bigger gaps so it got to be filled several times.

 

Also one thing to fill holes and defect that use common is CA flue and baking powder...

It harden instantly and get to work right away....

 

/Mal

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As one mentioned it shrinks if it is bigger gaps so it got to be filled several times.

 

Also one thing to fill holes and defect that use common is CA flue and baking powder...

It harden instantly and get to work right away....

 

/Mal

 

 

The CA glue is great for places to be scribed. Otherwise there is plenty of work - sanding, etc.

 

Solvent putty shrinks and larger gaps will take long time to get them filled.

 

The Miliput can be aplied with some small  blade  and the exces material can be easily washed away with a piece of cloth or cotton bud (regular water). Much easier to work with than the solvent putty.

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That is true of CA without talc or microballoons added.

 

IF you add talc powder or microballoons, you get a thick paste that drys very solid and is a breeze to sand, cut and shape.  Its definitely my filler of choice, especially for resin kits, as it drys instantly, drys rock hard, and has 0 shrink factor.

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I use tamiya grey putty or gunze Mr surfacer for light jobs because they are easy to sand (and so you dont harm your surface details too much), and CA glue for big gap, or when strenght is needed, or if i have to rescribe thereafter. (because "standard putties" are too britle to be rescribed correctly).

 

That's true the tamiya putty is usually dedidated to styrene plastic as is tend to melt with it and so have a very strong adherance, but it do also work on resin even if there is not this melting phenomena.

 

For very quick and easy gap filling, i sometimes use Mr liquid putty, and after a few minutes clean it with a cotton bud dipped in isopropylic alcohol. I also proceed the same way sometimes with Mr surfacer and a cotton bud dipped in Gunze mr color thinner (that do not harm the plastic). I can be useful to reduce big gaps on some panel lines that you still want to keep but just reduce the gap a bit.

 

 

Milliput of other 2 components putty are nice, and can be easily worked and cleaned with only water. But the drying time is pretty long. I only use it for some very specific jobs (if i remember correctly, i used it only twice on airplane models : once to level the joint between the air intake and the aires resin wheel bay of my Tamiya F-16, and another time for my Fisher Skyray intakes, because there was a few surface defects inside).

Edited by Zero77
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I like the talc mixed with CA glue and will try it. I have had ZERO problems with Tamiya putty shrinking, but maybe I'm just not that good a modeler and didn't notice. I'm happy to have something that dries quickly, as I HAVE NO PATIENCE!!!!

 

Sorry, was still thinking of another thread. :m0152: :m0152: :m0152: :m0152:

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I've noticed that tamiya putty (the grey one, at least, as i've never tried the white one) especially shrinks when thinned (with acetone or laquer thinner), as the thinner evaporate. But when used directly out of the tube, there is almost no shrinking, and as usually one always put an excess of putty (that will be sanded out), the gap is filled correctly.

Sometimes, one may have to thin it to apply it with a brush (i often do this way to fill the gap between 2 half fuselages). You then only have to apply putty several times, but it can be done very fast as you dont have to wait it is fully dry to apply a new stroke until you get a sufficient thickness.

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