alaninaustria Posted August 15, 2014 Author Share Posted August 15, 2014 Thanks Harv! Much appreciated! I haven't really settled for any specific aircraft yet, I wanted to solicit the membership for suggestions! What would you recommend?? Open to suggestions!! Cheers Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted August 15, 2014 Share Posted August 15, 2014 Pretty dynamic-looking build. Very nice. Sincerely, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 15, 2014 Share Posted August 15, 2014 Let me look around tomorrow. I'm hitting the sac........Harv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaninaustria Posted August 17, 2014 Author Share Posted August 17, 2014 Anybody have suggestions about the best way to lay down a coat of future? I've never sprayed it before and need some advice!! Thanks! Cheers Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 (edited) Hi Alan So far, I've used Future exclusively on my Sea Fury build and have had no problems at all. I thin the Future (Pledge with Future) with Windex (original formula) 50/50, set my compressor at 15 psi which yields a working pressure of approximately 12 psi. It is important to build up the shine with numerous light coats, letting the Future dry for 4-5 minutes in between coats. Slowly the gloss finish and smoothness will build up - just don't rush it. I like to let the Future dry 12-24 hours before decaling. If for some reason, the finish isn't glass smooth let it dry and then wet sand with 2000/12,000 grit polishing cloths. Then follow up with a few additional light coats. Decal, then a few more gloss coats. After that, the final finish can be gloss, semi gloss or flat. Future is self leveling, which takes a minute or so. Hope this helps Peter Edited August 17, 2014 by Peterpools Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radub Posted August 18, 2014 Share Posted August 18, 2014 Before you coat your model with Klear, do a test first to make sure that the GSI and Tamiya paints do not react to it. I discovered that Klear attacks the GSI paint. I have no idea why that is, but I suspect that it may be because Klear contains ammonia and the Japanese paints react to it.My suggestion is to spray some GSI and Tamiya paint on a piece of plastic and then cover it with a sprayed coat of Klear and see if it works. If you get a reaction (usually it cracks the paint) then I suggest you use the Tamiya clear varnish instead. I always had great results with Tamiya clear over GSI paint. HTH Radu alaninaustria 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaninaustria Posted August 19, 2014 Author Share Posted August 19, 2014 Peter and Radub, Thanks for taking the time to answer me! Much appreciated!! I will do a few test runs on some scrap wings painted up with the same aqueous paints I am currently using to see how the clear coating will work out! Better safe than sorry! A short update... Today I was able to finish up the rear tailwheel bay area and to begin the post shading using darkened and lightened mixes of the original colors, plus I highlighted some areas and the fasteners using Gunze Tire Black thinned at 70:30 (ISP:paint).... Not much to show but a little work non the less... I find that the post shading breaks the colors nicely and renders a more weathered look.... I don't have much experience doing this, so please let me know if you think it is too much or overdone... Opinions wanted! Cheers and happy modeling! Alan Uncarina 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 Alan Sure is looking mighty good and good luck with the Future, as I'm sure it will work just fine Keep 'em coming Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martinnfb Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 Awesome build Alan. I do not know much about the subject, so no advice here. Perhaps a photograph of the real plane would clarify the amount of weathering .I was also wandering about the British interior green, what color did you use?Also, could you suggest some references, Tempest is in my stash and I am struggling to find some decent links.Thanks.Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scvrobeson Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 Looks great Alan. I really like how the painting and weathering has come out. The added detail helped fix some of the small issues with the kit. One question though, what green did you use for the interior bits? Looks almost like US Interior Green on my monitor. Then again, my computer is old Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaninaustria Posted August 20, 2014 Author Share Posted August 20, 2014 Hello gentlemen, thanks for the nice words! I am really enjoying this build! I am thinking I might go for an invasion striped Tempest: JF MThe green is a mix of various Gunze Aqueous colors... as close as I could get it to the Mr Color RAF Interior Green...I'll be doing the same for the RAF roundels and squadron insignia!The references I have used are conviently located in the best Tempest site I have ever come across:http://www.hawkertempest.se/ My Montex Masks have arrived so I'll be getting cracking on them if I can find time! Cheers and thanks again for the nice feedback and sugestions/help! Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Mike Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 Looks nice, Alan. Bottom pre-shade has an interesting look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martinnfb Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 Hi Alan, thanks for the answer. Invasion stripes will give this beasty a killer look. Any drop tanks?, or just a clean look? Cheers Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaninaustria Posted August 20, 2014 Author Share Posted August 20, 2014 (edited) Thanks Mike! Appreciate the nice words!!I found a little time today so I was able to get busy with the Montex masks that arrived today!First up, the RAF squadron isignia fin flashes.... I always like to lay down a coat of flat white with each and every mask I use... The reason being is that the white color leaves a balanced under coat that will later result in a uniform coloring of the desired masked markings... I use highly thinned Gunze Flat White thinned to a ratio of 70:30 (ISP:paint), I burnish all edges of the mask down using a toothpick, and place white paper under the mask to minimize the tacky area of the mask to prevent any lifting of the underlying colors...I also shoot at 90 degrees to the surface to prevent 'ridging' of the paint around the edges of the mask.... Before shooting color I also lightly polish the area to be painted using a small piece from a sanding foam stick! The trick to receiving good results is to shoot thin layers of color in multiple passes and not to flood the mask with paint! Also, to prevent overspray it is important to mask off all areas! For this task, I use post-its and kitchen paper cut to size....RAF fin flashes....Using the same techniques as described above, I masked and painted the underwing RAF roundels...After completing the underwing RAF roundels, I completed the upper wing RAF roundels...The masks before painting:Then the 1st base layer: And, finally some color! I sprayed the red center first, then the blue... a good trick to recentering the red mask before painting the blue is to flip the vinyl mask over (so it doesn't stick) place it in the center and then gently put the center mask down over the red to keep the red masked while the blue is painted.... that way there is no darkening of the red if you paint the whole mask blue (remember, you want to use the neutral white base to bring out the color of the top coat) and then remask the blue to paint the red center... remasking the painted areas is best avoided.... And, finally a nice uniform marking...I have decided after reviewing several period photos on the internet, that the full invasion stripes detract from the fine lines of the airframe and tend to diminish the streamline aspect of the overall airframe... So, I have decided on an airframe that incorporates only the fuselage underside invasion stripes.... To help preserve the beauty and elegance of the airframe I believe this is the best scheme to finish my bird in!A hint of the airframe:More to follow!!I find the use of masks extremely tedious, time consuming and delicate.... But, the final results can't be beat!!Best regards and happy modelling!CheersAlan Edited August 21, 2014 by alaninaustria leoasman, Seversky, Sparzanza and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 Alan WOW, looks awesome. Keep 'em coming Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now