Conversion of Czech Models 1/32 T-33 toTwin-tailed T-33 (TV-2)

[amurray]

Ever since I saw the picture of the twin-tailed T-33 (TV-2) in Squadron's P-80/T-33/F-94 In Action I've wanted to build it.  I found an additional picture each in FAOW F-80/T-33 and Shooting Star T-Bird & Starfire. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Search as I might, I could find no plans or drawings.  One day I was perusing ecardmodels website and - Eureka!!!  There it was in 1/48 scale designed by Rob Carleen for Design Group Alpha.  (Picture below).

 

It is a simple matter to blow the 1/48 card model up to 1/32 scale.  There are some minor panel line errors in the tail section, primarily the elevator and the underside of the tail.  They are easily seen and corrected from the photo in FAOW.  I used the enlarged printed copies as my templates. 

 

 

 

 

 

This should be fun!

 

Your comments and suggestions are welcome.

Edited April 21, 2021 by amurray
Update

[LSP_Kevin]

Looking forward to it Art!

 

Kev

[amurray]

The first step was to cut out the paper parts I need - the twin vertical stabilizers and the horizontal stabilizer. I then glued them to 1/16 inch plastic card and cut out the parts using very sharp scissors.  I trimmed and sanded until I felt it was right and then beveled the leading edges.  I'll also use the same templates to scribe each part.  There is a minor error on the scribing of the paper model that reveals itself in the pictures.  It is in the area of the hinges.  The card model also shows trim tabs that are not evident in the pictures of the horizontal tail sections.

 

 

 

 

Edited April 21, 2021 by amurray
Update

[Guest]

WOW !!....Harv   

[amurray]

To make a twin tail one must remove the existing tail sections.  One can either remove the entire tail at the fuselage break and then make a new mold for the tail and vac form it.  Or, one can remove only parts of the existing tail and build up a new tail with scrap plastic and putty or epoxy.  I chose the latter route with Milliput and Metal Bite two-part polyster glaze as my choices for fillers and for re-building the tail.  The Metal Bite came from a local auto paint supplier.

 

First I removed the vertical tail.  You'll see a slope to the rear after I removed the tail.  I'll correct this and make it flat when I re-build the tail.

 

 

 

 

Next I removed the stubs for the horizontal stabilizers. 

 

 

 

I first reinforced the inside of the fuselage with Metal Bite.  Then as I removed more of the top of the fuselage and the wall of the fuselage became very thin, I added plastic strips for reinforcement.  The piece above the slot became vey thin and narrow so I cut it to relieve the stress and backed it up with plastic strip.  This also served the purpose of reducing the bulge in the sides of the fuselage because the re-built tail will have straighter sides where it fairs into the fuselage.  Photos of the twin-tail show a straighter side than the single-tail.   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And while I was at it, I removed the deck at the rear of the cockpit.  There is no deck on the real aircraft.  The rear of the AMS cockpit tub I am using will fit in its place.

 

 

 

 

Edited March 7, 2021 by amurray
Update

[amurray]

I decided to use the AMS cockpit tub and seats.  The kit has resin seats but they appear too squatty.

 

 

 

If you install cockpit sills as I will, be sure to leave a gap in the back for the rear of the cockpit tub.

 

 

Edited April 21, 2021 by amurray
Update

[Harold]

Lookin' good. I will be following your build.

[ssculptor]

Right on!

Thats the way to utilize paper card models.

I'll be following this build.

Stephen

[amurray]

Now to the dreaded intakes - and they deserve their reputation!

 

I highly recommend one read the excellent build reviews by Tom Cleaver http://modelingmadness.com/review/korean/cleaver/usaf/tmct33.htm

and Mike Millette http://www.hyperscale.com/2010/features/t3332mm_1.htm

 

I used Mike's assembly method, Tom's suggestion to cut the intakes apart and my own contribution to solving this problem:  enlarge the notch in the fuselage/wingroot where the edge of the trunking is to slide.  I also filed away the inside of the fuselage to give more wiggle room.  All these steps improve the fit but additional filler is still needed.

 

 

 

 

Before you install the splitters remove the tabs so that they fit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited April 21, 2021 by amurray
Update

[amurray]

I used scrap plastic to fill the large gaps and to give the kit parts something to bind them together.  Otherwise the parts flex too much.  I will cover the remaining gaps with putty.  When gluing the parts the wing fairings did not quite match the intakes so I put a toothpick under each fairing to spread the part to match the intake.  This simple step saves a lot of sanding at a tricky parts joint.

 

 

 

Edited March 7, 2021 by amurray
Update

[amurray]

I used both the AMS instrument panels as well as the kit pieces.  This makes the instruments look more realistic, especially the front panel the rear of which should be visible.  Harold of AMS pointed out to me that the rear panel is covered in a shroud so the back of that panel is not visible anyway.  I made the shroud out of lead foil.

 

 

 

Edited April 24, 2021 by amurray
Update

[Rick K]

interesting conversion on a "challenging kit".  great scratch work.

[Dandiego]

This is my kind of build, taking a standard kit and transforming it into something completely different.I build the F-80. This is not a simple build. Great work so far.

 

Dan

[LSP_Kevin]

Nice progress Art!

 

Kev

[amurray]

Putty, lots of files and sandpaper.  I'm making progress on the intakes.  Definitely the worst part of the kit!

 

 

 

Edited April 21, 2021 by amurray
Update