1/32 Texan/Harvard down Under

[SirBlueHenry]

Filling the gap between flaps with plastic card

[SirBlueHenry]

On this side i did not need to do any filling as I have shifted the flaps to make the correct joint.

Notice that thin gap in the red box. Its so thin I wont bother filling it, buts just pointing out it is NOT a feature of the real aircraft

In the green box the flap joint - good on this side

[SirBlueHenry]

Then I drilled and testfitted the undercarriage into the slots for the uplock pins.

So these holes in the red boxes allow the little uplock pins on the undercarriage to fit more snugly into the bay.

On the real aircraft there IS a sort of gap where the uplock pins hold the undercarriage legs up, but the entire curvature of the undercarriage bay is different here.

I will do some aspects in detail and other aspects I will just live with the inconsistencies.

Main thing I want to do here is practice making retractable undercarriage for my model.

mainly because I like the challenge, and need to get it right for when i eventually do it on larger scale

but also because even if I dont make it reatractable, the joint is still most accurately represented in this manner, than by just glueing the leg into some hole etc.

It will be slightly odd in that my tyres have flattening on them and will look a bit odd when in the retracted position, but as i say, its just for the practice.

[SirBlueHenry]

another view - the red box showing the pin that slots into the hole, and it is this pin which gets gripped by the uplock mechanism, which is more or less attached to the lower edges of the firewall, and on the model this ends up being in the correct position so thats good.

Blue box shows removal of more plastic from the side of the u/c bay.

The purple box shows where i have rounded the fairing slightly as the model has too much of a sharp point there., see some of the previous few photos and you will get more of a view of the rounding i have done on both fairings.

[SirBlueHenry]

[SirBlueHenry]

I will now need to create this part of the undercarriage leg - which pivots on a bracket in the main spar - which I also have to make.

Bit of a challenge to get the angles right

[SirBlueHenry]

I do agree with the comments in Kevins build, and which I stated right in the beginning, that the fairing for the wheels needs to be corrected. There should NOT be the V shapped gully on top of the wing where the fairing joins upper surface, but I dont think that filling is the answer.

I know its a lot of work, but I think best results will be from remaking from foil or thin sheetplastic vacformed over a mould. plastic would have to be no thicker than 0.3mm. In fact the lower curved parts of a Coke bottle may be a contender, or simply using thin plastic card stretched over a mould with a hairdryer or something like that.

If I was going to build my other kit anytime - thats what I would do.

[SirBlueHenry]

[SirBlueHenry]

[SirBlueHenry]

[SirBlueHenry]

[Sharkmouth]

Many thanks for the images.

 

Regards,

[Hubert Boillot]

Whilst you are in this area SBH, I'm sure you have noted that the angle of the front oblique panel from the LE to the LG pivot point is wrong. The LG well at the LG pivot point should be narrower than the kit's representation.

 

Great to follow your progress.

 

Hubert.

Edited April 28, 2014 by MostlyRacers

[SirBlueHenry]

Thanks for that Hubert - it had actually slipped me by. Always good to have others eyes on the issue. Cheers I will correct that

[SirBlueHenry]

Front spar and centre former