Hubert Boillot Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 Your dedication to detailing, and the results: everything is outstanding in this project ! Hubert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck540z3 Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 Y'know, I saw that this thread existed but I didn't even open it up because it's for a 1/18 scale P-38, so it likely had no bearing on my 1/32 build of the same aircraft. Well, it does after all. Your work is just crazy good and inspiring for any build of any aircraft! The machining of all those tiny parts just blows me away. Thanks for sharing your brilliant work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayW Posted December 20, 2014 Author Share Posted December 20, 2014 Chuck - thanks for the great compliment. I have a Trump 1/32 P-38 that I built up a few years ago. LSP has a feature on it. I thought that was a fabulous model, practically out of the box. But I must say, there is no way I could have put that kind of detail in at 1/32. It's hard enough at 1/18. I just wish the 1/18 21CT model had the accurate shape of the Trumpeter. They out did themselves on their P-38. More talented folks should build that kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayW Posted December 20, 2014 Author Share Posted December 20, 2014 Wolf - brass shim? That would make it look cleaner, and more robust. But tolerances would still be a problem. And how would you cut them - sounds tough. Try to cut curved links that are only .04 inch wide, with .023 holes for pins. With my eyesight even with magifiers, that isn't easy. Actually, I should have used the next size down nuts with smaller holes and pins. That would have helped. And/or - I could have grown the mechanism just a tad. It would have been out of scale but not by very much. That would add some clearance between the unfolded links, which are now "bottomed out". Thanks for looking in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loic Posted December 20, 2014 Share Posted December 20, 2014 (edited) That's some impressive work !! Edited December 20, 2014 by Loic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayW Posted December 24, 2014 Author Share Posted December 24, 2014 All right - I think y'all are going to like this. The inside of the NLG door has been built up, the forward 2/3 or so with little plastic frames or formers, and .01 thick sheet skins laid over the formers. The aft half inch or so is just a layer of .03 sheet curved to fit directly over the existing curved part, and then with cutouts. The last part I just filled in with a pool of epoxy and after it dried I cut out the depression for the tire. The result is a surprisingly stiff door assembly. And as you can see, after paint I installed the studebaker hinges. You will also see an up-lock bracket on the fwd end opposite the hinge, and the actuator rod and rod end at the aft end. This will of course slide inside the actuator cylinder already installed in the wheel well. Sorry - those shots are not real clear..... Of course, I installed the outer skins: I think I am going to put a couple hundred drill starts in it for the rivet pattern, and then repaint it. Mind numbing..... Here is a shot of the door dry fitted: Truth be told, it doesn't fit all that great. It's too short by about .05 inch; not sure how that happened. But that's OK. Also the hinges are a little crooked and don't lay very flat on the side of the wheel well. But it's all good. Each hinge has some flexibility and when it comes time to install the door, I can flex everything into position. It will look fine. Now, enough with the stalling. I think I got over the decal issues with the props. So that is where I will return. Later. sandokan and Rdrunner 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 That really does look incredible Jay! Amazing stuff. Are you going to attempt to rehabilitate the panel line trenches? Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayW Posted December 24, 2014 Author Share Posted December 24, 2014 "Are you going to attempt to rehabilitate the panel line trenches?" Kevin - here is where I could use all the help I can get. My weakest skill in modelling is panel line covering/restoration. Yes, I intend to cover up those panel lines, and recreate more accurate ones. I only hope I don't mess it up in the process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brahman104 Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 Mate I would be filling those with styrene and a liberal supply of liquid cement. I don't think putty has anything to offer you for trenches that deep! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loic Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 Wow! That's some fine detailling! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironwing Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 JW Most importantly...Happy Holiday Bud. Now about those panel lines...Brahman104 is spot on. Use rod stock melted into the groves. make it sufficient in diameter suck that the OD spans the top of the groove....040...060? Whatever it takes. Use slow welding liquid. Press the rod stock in once the weld liquid softens the material. I think you already know this. I just mention it in passing. Once all is sanded, you have two choices; rescribe the plastic or rescribe into the primer coat. Rescribing into the primer is generally easier and if you screw it up, you can locally sand and reprime. Ive used a mechanical Pentel loaded with .5 mm lead. Keep the exposed portion of the lead short, max .040 to minimize flex/breakage. It has enough strength to cut into the primer and leave a clean crisp line. Food for thought. All the best to you and yours Geoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRutman Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 Those hinges are mind blowing buddy! Nice work as usual. As far as the panel line thing goes,I would listen to Geoff. He sometimes knows what he's talking about,specially when he's off the booze and pills! J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayW Posted December 24, 2014 Author Share Posted December 24, 2014 I have chosen not to even think about the panel line trenches, until now. I suppose I can bury myself in the cockpit and avoid it a while longer. But you are right, it is just about time to face the music and cover them over and start new. I will take my rod stock and glue and get going. Thanks Jerry and Geoff for looking in, and Happy Holidays to all! I have guests for a few days, so the project gathers dust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CATCplSlade Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 This build may be only marginally cheaper and easier than inventing and developing shrink-ray technology. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironwing Posted December 25, 2014 Share Posted December 25, 2014 Those hinges are mind blowing buddy! Nice work as usual. As far as the panel line thing goes,I would listen to Geoff. He sometimes knows what he's talking about,specially when he's off the booze and pill OMG...youre such a jerk. I happen to enjoy my booze and pills - AND - Ill have you know, I never know what what Im talking about. So there...Has anyone else seen those dragons in the kitchen? MERRY CHRISTMAS!!! uh James...back to work please Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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