Your step-by-step methods for installing resin cockpits etc?

[dsahling1]

Pretty much the other posts cover everything you need to do.  Razor saw is a must, I find metal files work best in ensuring a proper fit.  I try to make the initial cut a little bit less than needed or indicated in the instructions and then gradually file down the area you need.  Just a heads up, theres a very good chance you'll need to file the resin cockpit piece in various once you've cut it from the resin block to make it fit properly.  The most important part is to dry fit, dry fit, dry fit.  

[LSP_Matt]

The other thing that I might add is the idea that its only a model kit made of plastic.

 

Don't stress man...if you've been going slow you're unlikely to butcher your kit too badly.  Even if you do butcher it a little, plastic can be repaired with many types of fillers, styrene etc. 

 

In a weird way, the more you get in over your head but persist in getting it right, the more your skillset and confidence will expand.  That's what I find the fun part rather than perfectly fitting parts that have removed any challenge or chance for ingenuity.

 

You could also try spot bonding (CA) pieces in place to aid in securing them whilst dry-fitting.  If its wrong often if there's only a pin drop of adhesive it can be cracked off and flicked smooth again...no harm no foul.

 

Cheers Matty

[Bill Cross]

One thing I don't think has been mentioned is to pre-score any cut. Razor saws are very sharp, yet can easily slip and spoil things with a groove in a spot you don't want.

 

I often will use an old X-acto blade, and with soft plastic or resin, will use it "backwards" to make it more of a point and less of a slicer.

 

You can also use anything that works for scoring panel lines. HTH.

[Guest Peterpools]

Bill

How aright your are. I just finished installing the machine gun nose plates on my Sabre and two nice slips wit the J knife, provided a few hours of fun and joy.

Peter

[Uilleann]

Thanks all!  I was able to find a general purpose razor saw, and went ahead and charged headlong into it with banners flying in full battle cry!  While it wasn't an utterly seamless fit, things did end up working out fairly well.  Pics and build here:

 

http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=45784&p=518416

[scvrobeson]

Looks good. The step everyone forgot is that after you get it separated from the block, go have a nice beer.  Reward yourself.  Then repeat after getting the cockpit cleaned up to the point that it fits without needing putty/clamps.  Repeat the beer again after painting and installing the cockpit.

 

 

 

 

Matt 

[modelingbob]

Looks good. The step everyone forgot is that after you get it separated from the block, go have a nice beer.  Reward yourself.  Then repeat after getting the cockpit cleaned up to the point that it fits without needing putty/clamps.  Repeat the beer again after painting and installing the cockpit.

 

 

 

 

Matt 

IMNSHO, Matt's tip is by far the MOST valuable tip of the day!!!

[happy1]

Brian, Probably one of the most useful tools I've got is a fingernail drill/file machine that I got off of e-bay I like because you can stall it with your finger slow enough so as not to melt the plastic when your grinding or polishing, cutting brass tubing small parts with cutting wheels, think about it.

 

Paul

[JeffH]

As for scraping side-wall details off. I've found lately that a curved X-Acto blade works a lot better than a straight/point #11 blade. The curved edge just seems to give more control over what and how much you're cutting

[LSP_Kevin]

As for scraping side-wall details off. I've found lately that a curved X-Acto blade works a lot better than a straight/point #11 blade. The curved edge just seems to give more control over what and how much you're cutting

 

Absolutely! I do nearly all my scraping (except when at the bottom of a barrel) with a curved blade. You can often get a much more precise result than you would with sanding, too. And there's a type of blade available (I don't know the number) that has a curved cutting edge, but is much shorter than the standard curved blade. Great for tiny places! I can post a photo if anybody requests it.

 

Kev

[Uilleann]

Absolutely! I do nearly all my scraping (except when at the bottom of a barrel) with a curved blade. You can often get a much more precise result than you would with sanding, too. And there's a type of blade available (I don't know the number) that has a curved cutting edge, but is much shorter than the standard curved blade. Great for tiny places! I can post a photo if anybody requests it.

 

Kev

I'd love a reference Kev if you can stick one here easily enough.  Cheers!

 

B~

[LSP_Kevin]

I'd love a reference Kev if you can stick one here easily enough.  Cheers!

 

B~

 

Here is the 'standard' curved one I use for most of my scraping (image courtesy of the Xacto website):

Lots of white space in that image unfortunately. Anyway, it's listed as #22. The one in the following image (also from the Xacto website) is the smaller one I was thinking of, but apparently is doesn't have a curved blade at all!

It's #16. I still find it useful for scraping in confined areas - much more so than a #11 or a #22. To avoid the hassle of changing blades regularly, I try to have a dedicated handle for each type, and only change them when they need replacing. I need to get another handle for chisel-type blades too.

 

HTH,

 

Kev