Your step-by-step methods for installing resin cockpits etc?

[Uilleann]

So, I've only ever worked with a resin cockpit once before, and I actually gave up before ever coming to the dreaded 'surgery' part of slicing up one's expensive plastic kit and praying I didn't slice off too much!  So, I would like to get some more detail on how you guys go about prepping, modifying, and finally installing your resin tubs.  I don't currently have many tools at all, save for a micro file (way too slow), an Xacto knife (way too fiddly...and sharp!), and the trusty old Dremel (way too aggressive??)

 

Of course, the instructions included with the kit show a nice shaded area to remove of the kit's plastic...but my great fear is two-fold:  I don't want to remove too much plastic and ruin the whole thing.  And I don't know that I have the proper tools or skill to proceed with a decent chance for success here. 

 

Have any of you good people done a video or other step-by-step pertaining to the proper preb, cutting/thinning/sanding/shaping, and subsequent mounting/gluing/permanent attachment of said resin cockpits?  Quick searches at the usual places didn't turn up much of value so far.

 

TIA!
 

Brian~

[krow113]

I would suggest looking for blogs pertaining to the model you are attempting. Many procedures differ from kit to kit. There is a data base of builds on this site somewhere...

[Smokey]

Brian like Steve said it varies from kit to kit.  I use a model saw off a little less than what they call for in the shaded area and than use some sand paper to make the final fit of the tub. Dan  

[Vandy 1 VX 4]

Brian   One item that has helped out a lot is washable marker. You can use it on the resin cockpit tub when fitting. It will transfer ink to the high spots on the kit. You can see it clearly and scrape the high parts. After your done just wash it off.

 

Type Used

Crayola Washable Markers, Broad Point, Classic Colors, 12 / Set

Edited January 22, 2014 by Vandy 1 VX 4

[krow113]

The above tip with the marker is excellent. Dont fall into the "sharpie" trap , the ink in those is vegetable OIL  based , it will compromise the paint applied after.

[Uilleann]

The problem I'm running into with this particular kit is that it's both A: relatively new (released just last year), B: it's not horribly popular, and C: The resin update just came out a couple months back, and I am not aware of any other builds using it.  EricG's WIP thread here is about as detailed a build as I could find, and it was done more than a year before this was available.  I'm hoping it's fairly straight forward...I just am not sure how to best proceed in a controlled manner.  This is the area I'm needing to tackle first and foremost:

 

 

One advantage I expect, is that for the most part, the cuts are all on straight lines.  Although, I'm hoping to minimize the need for filling due to taking away too much, or cutting something crooked etc.  I think I might have a tiny bit of wiggle room along the sills as there is a small photo etch plate that I think I can use to help cover the majority of the seam itself down the sides.  And I have done a dry fit of the rear bulkhead, and it fits beautifully right out of the box.  The front cowling may prove a little more difficult perhaps...but again, I'm just trying to plan everything out as much as I can in my head before I start attacking the plastic.

 

I may well be over-thinking this whole endeavor, though experience tells me it's always better to work out new stuff as much as possible beforehand when trying something new...particularly if you don't have any replacement bits and it's kinda a one shot deal.  As far as the actual removal of the bulk of the material...what do you suggest?  I don't own a razor saw of any kind (honestly I couldn't even pick one out of a lineup!)  Is this something you think I could safely do with the Dremel alone?  I'm just afraid of slipping and seriously damaging the kit...

[Vandy 1 VX 4]

Go with a razor saw!!!!   I would find one that is thin with more teeth per inch. You can also find them for your Xacto knife handle. Tamiya has a nice razor saw that I use all the time. Plus they have a small one that is the Mini  http://www.luckymodel.com/scale.aspx?item_no=TA%2074018 

http://www.luckymodel.com/scale.aspx?item_no=TA%2074024  Large one.

 

The sill !!!   I would use a file for that.

 

I hope this will help.

Cheers

[krow113]

Using any kind of conversion or resin set you will ultimately need a saw.

 

And sandpaper ,a lot of it.

 

The saw allows one hand to hold the part , whereas two are needed for the Dremel alone.

 

Dont try the Dremel one -handed.

[Vandy 1 VX 4]

http://www.officeworld.com/Worlds-Biggest-Selection/CYO587812/13Q1/

 

The above Link is the type of washable marker that I use. Or if you have grandkids or kids, Just steal one of theirs

 

Thank you for the Likes

Cheers

Edited January 22, 2014 by Vandy 1 VX 4

[Guest Peterpools]

I'm guity! Almsot every build I've done since coming back to the hobby has had either a full resin cockpit installed or a combination of resin parts and the kit parts (Tamiya Mustang with a full set of Barracuda upgrades). There seems to be only two basic resin upgrade sets:

The full resin tubs (AMS, Aires, Wolfpack) and individual section sets that make up the assembly (MDC, Avionix). I'm sure there are a lot more but these are the ones I've used so far. Best advice:

Do all the cutting and sanding OUTSIDE in the fresh air

Wear a mask

The resin dust in very harmfull and should be treated with care.

Solid one piece tubs require the casting block to be cut off and then it's sanding time. Go slow and test fit very often. Section detail sets will require less sanding but keep test fitting

Don't force fit the parts.

I ruined a few kits when I first started to lean how to work with resin but after a while, they all install the same way.

Read the instructions and do a lot of searches on line for builds using your kit and resin parts - they are out there and very handy in see how it is done and the pitfalls as well.

Make a game pan and follow it.

If you're having problems and things don't look right; STOP and post questions.  We've all been there

Peter

[Uilleann]

Thanks Peter, this is exactly the sort of help I'm after.  Again, sadly, both this F-117A kit and particularly the new Aires tub for it are hot off the presses - so there is no historical precedent for this particular build.  It is a one piece tub, with a rear bulkhead that attaches with no wiggle room in relation to the sills and the IP.  This is where my trepidation comes from primarily.  I don't have many tools at all, but will look into some files and/or a razor saw to see what I can do...with as much control as possible.

 

Thanks!  Brian~

[Guest Peterpools]

Hi Brian

Just go slowly and test fit as you go. I use a simple Xacto razer saw to carefully cut off the casting block and then a 9 inch file to start shaping and adjusting. As things begin to get closer, I'll switch files to a smaller file but nothing fancy. I file and test fit, file and test fit. It a slow process but it works. If you go too far, sheet plastic will be your best friend. When done, a warm bath in soapy water will remove the dust and oils. Just keep working each area so that things fit.

take your time and let us know how you are making out

Peter

[Uilleann]

Didn't have a chance to get to the store tonight after work to find a razor saw and files (kiddo's orchestra recital), but hopefully in the next few days.  I'll be sure to post progress as I go.

[RandyB]

Hi Brian,

 

If you can find them, Hasegawa makes a set (actually three sets I think) of photoetch saw/scribers under their Tritool line. They come in various shapes and sizes are are very handy for scribing and sawing various parts and shapes. Hobby Link Japan used to carry them - and they are backordered/out of stock currently. If you see them elsewhere, grab them.

 

Otherwise, JLC and Radu Brinzan make some great, very thin razor saws. I have each of them and they all serve their purpose for a variety of situations. Here are some links to get you started:

 

http://www.umm-usa.com/catalog/tools_JLC.html - I'd get the "15 Year Anniversary" Edition as it's the most complete...

http://www.radubstore.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=77_112 - I have one each of RB-T013, RB-T014, RB-T015, RB-T016, and RB-T017 and all have proven their worth with resin and plastic. Radu also makes Contour, Micro-, and Nano- saws that I haven't tried, but do look intriguing.

 

So, the bottom line is that many saws can accomplish the job you're looking to do... The key is taking it slowly and test fitting as you go.

 

Cheers,

 

-randy

[Thomas Lund]

Also for getting rid of internal wall details a micro chisel is a fantastic tool.

 

Best advice is - go slow and check fit often.

 

I find that with cockpits that are made up of several parts - floor, sides, front and back - then I dont assemble the whole cockpit until I install it. In that way you can tilt the side out a bit to fit whereever they should. Often I side the thing in, position the side walls and secure them with a drop of super glue and then fit the rest.