is there a safe way to mask Alclad?

[Bill Cross]

Thanks, Peter. I have my first all-alclad kit just about finished (Hasegawa P-47D Bubble Top in NM). In the process of painting it right now.

[Guest Peterpools]

Bill

Sounds fantastic and hope yopu wil post a few images when she is done

Peter

[Bill Cross]

Bill

Sounds fantastic and hope yopu wil post a few images when she is done

Peter

You bet! Thanks for the encouragement from a modeler I look up to.

[DoogsATX]

I've never had problems masking over Alclad. Other metalizers, yes. Alclad, never.

 

Agreed that surface prep is key. In addition to the 12,000 grit, etc, I'd suggest getting a cloth buffing wheel for your Dremel (if you have one). NOT the felt wheel, but cloth (you can find them on eBay).

 

Every time I use mine I'm blown away. Do it right and you can literally see your reflection. 

 

[PC2012]

Hi Bill - I didn't use anything other than a rubbing compound to polish my base black. I did though use two coats, each one polished between coats... Once the alclad was on I didn't put anything on the finish apart from microsol and set for the decals. I found if you allow enough drying time between all coats and don't rush it, it will turn out fine. BTW... with high shine Alclad... Less is more!! let the black base, do all the work

[Guest Peterpools]

Completely agree - that's the job of the black base- it is the most important part of the system. Right now, I'm in the middle of mt Alclad NMF for Duchess Arlene. The wings and tail feathers are 99% dry and are super smooth. My base Alclad colors will be MISTED on, allowing the layers to slowly build up. Between mist coasts, wait a few minutes so the Alclad can set up and the metallic shine come through. Masking, I wait a day or so just to let everything set up and then follow the de-tack procedure you shouodn't encounter any problems.

From the very start:- DON'T HAND HOLD THE MODEL. WEAR THE RIGHT TYPE OF GLOVES OR HANDLE WITH A CLEAN, SOFT PAPER TOWEL.

 

Peter

[Bill Cross]

I did not realize how important the black base is. Figured base is base. Thanks, Gents, as always. Never ceases to amaze me how generous y'all are with your time & skills advice.

[Guest Peterpools]

Bill

I wasn't sure either until I compared the Alclad finish over the different bases. Black Gloss is the way to go.

Peter

[Zero77]

With some tamiya 600 to 2000 grade sand paper and a set of micromesh (3600, 4000, 6000, 8000, 12000), you can achieve a really glass polished finish. A first coat of primer can help to level all of the micro-defect prior to sanding and polishing.

Here is a miror finished i've done only with sand-paper and micromesh (no compound or power tool). The alu finish is based on rub-n-buff (not alclad), first sprayed with an airbrush and then polished again and again :

 

But as it is a first try with rub-n-buff, i dont know how it react to masking, all the more since i will certainly make a custom paint-job with adhesive vinyl masks... (i dont enjoy any of the decals i can find)

Edited February 11, 2014 by Zero77

[Guest Peterpools]

Gorgeous Sabre ... Hope mine will look half as good

Peter

[Maketar Productions]

Hi all,

 

Used Alclad quite many times with masks on, never had a single problem. Also, never ever sprayed any primers and bases for alclad except on some parts of the model to check seems and filler spots. Not just i used masks over Alclad but i did heavily masked it! Also, never thinned Alclad, just spray it at a bit higher pressure and allow enough time in between coats.

 

Finished 'Jug' can be seen HERE

 

 

Last project i used alclad and masks was my P-47D build

 

 

Cheers,

Alek

[BiggTim]

With some tamiya 600 to 2000 grade sand paper and a set of micromesh (3600, 4000, 6000, 8000, 12000), you can achieve a really glass polished finish. A first coat of primer can help to level all of the micro-defect prior to sanding and polishing.

Here is a miror finished i've done only with sand-paper and micromesh (no compound or power tool). The alu finish is based on rub-n-buff (not alclad), first sprayed with an airbrush and then polished again and again :

 

 

 

But as it is a first try with rub-n-buff, i dont know how it react to masking, all the more since i will certainly make a custom paint-job with adhesive vinyl masks... (i dont enjoy any of the decals i can find)

 

May I ask exactly what "rub-n-buff" you used? - because it looks great! I've used both SNJ Aluminum and Testors Aluminum Metalizer with good results, but I definitely had to clearcoat after buffing with the powder or the tape will lift the powder off. Not a huge deal, but an important step. No one locally sells Alclad, so it's a little expensive to get here. I love the polished finishes, but I usually paint mine as if oxidized, so it doesn't matter as much. It matter a lot if I do the XP-38 kit bash I'm considering, however.

[Out2gtcha]

If you foil it, you wont need to pre-paint anything.............but prep is just as key with Alclad however.  And when you screw up, you can just remove the foil, clean it and start over. You also I have found, have many, many options for weathering as well as paint OVER the foil to get some amazing chipping effects.

I DO however acknowledge that fact that it is not suitable for everyone nor every NMF situation.

 

Just another option

Edited January 30, 2015 by Out2gtcha