airscale Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 I used Alclad white aluminium for the first time a while back on the drop tanks on my Sea Fury and masked with tamiya tape the next day when i lifted the tape, there was some patchy damage where the very top surface layer came off with the tape. I thought I read Alclads were bulletproof for masking so maybe I am doing something wrong? I have never sprayed Future so hoped I could avoid having to do that (and a bit worried it will wipe the fine surface detail I added) but is that the answer? are there any tips or tricks for not damaging the surface - I really don't want to balls up a model I have spent nearly 2 years building cheers all Peter Uilleann 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daywalker Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 Hi Peter! I had a similar problem on my P-51, and I believe the problem was caused by the way I sprayed the Alclad. If it is very lightly misted on, it will dry before hitting the surface, and will lift up with even Tamiya tape. I resprayed the Alclad, and went a bit heavier on the final pass to get a good coat, and to "anchor" it to the surface. After that, I sprayed it with Alclad Aqua Gloss and was able to mask over that easily. That might be an option for you? As far as Future goes, I use it between every color when masking and painting. I have found that spraying it at one bar of pressure is about right, and thin it a little with distilled water. The water will decrease the gloss a little, but will allow the Future to spray in a finer pattern and avoid the "pebbly" finish often achieved when spraying it straight out of the bottle. As far as losing detail, I have never had that happen to me as long as is isn't flooded on in repeated coats. A few light coats, thinned about 10% with distilled water, should give you exactly what you need. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warbird Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 Hi, I thin Alclad with 30-40 % nitrocellulose thinnner. It gives a better finish and I've never experienced any problem with masking (using Tamiya tape). Make sure the plastic is perfectly clean before applying the paint. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 (edited) Hi Peter On my last Mustang - Old Crow, I did a lot of masking on top of the Alclad and hopefully not jinxing myself, not a problem at all. I never use sealer over the Alclad as it changes the metallic shine. As Frank said, the first key is the Alclad application. The gloss black base (I use Alclad AC-310) and have no problems at all - just takes a while to dry. Now apply the Alclad, exactly as per instructions - light misty coats @ 12 psi. When done, just let is dry for a while. wait a few minutes in between coast, as the color comes through. The thinner the Alclad, the better. Masking is a snap: Use Tamiya tape and de-tack the tape. Now the tape will stick but won't pull off any Alclad or black base and won't leave marks on the Alclad. If the Gloss black base pulls up, the surface wasn't clean and grease free. If I can help, just let em know Peter Edited January 18, 2014 by Peterpools Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airscale Posted January 19, 2014 Author Share Posted January 19, 2014 thanks guys - followed your advice - particularly de-tacking the tape and the mist coats and didn't have a problem this time Peter - that is the best mirror NMF finish I have seen - beautiful and truly exceptional - boy, do I wish I had your skills! thanks again folks Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 (edited) Peter Thanks so much but I really wish I had only half your skills and I would be a very happy guy! Glad out suggestions worked for you Peter Edited January 19, 2014 by Peterpools Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PC2012 Posted January 20, 2014 Share Posted January 20, 2014 Hi Peter, I did a Starfighter with Alclad chrome on Britmodeller.... here is the link (there is also a link to the build thread) I think it's just getting the preparation correct. I didn't have any problems masking the Alclad. But I gave each stage a long drying time.... Hope the build thread helps! http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234940520-hasegawa-148th-starfighter-f-104c/?hl=starfighter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Cross Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 Peter & PC, both fantastic finishes. Did either of you use any sanding or other pre- or post-painting buffing/grinding/sanding? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 Hi Bill I hope I'm not hijacking Peter's thread. The key is the prep prior to the Gloss Black Base. I spent hours sanding and polishing the entire model, making sure the surface was a smooth and blemish free as I could make it. Once I was satisfied I did my best, I shot on the Gloss Base on. I didn't use any pre or post shading at all and after the Alclad was on, that was it, no polishing at all. I'm right now re-doing a Tamiya Mustang, stripped the paint and finish, again spent countless hours sanding and polishing. I normally work my way through the various grades; #20 (sometimes), 400, 600, 1500, 2000 and 12,000. Just prior to the Gloss Black, wiped down the model with a good grade of isopropyl alcohol or a prep. This will remove any last specs of dust, lint or fingerprints. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssculptor Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 thanks guys - followed your advice - particularly de-tacking the tape and the mist coats and didn't have a problem this time Peter - that is the best mirror NMF finish I have seen - beautiful and truly exceptional - boy, do I wish I had your skills! thanks again folks Peter How do you de-tack the tape? Thanks, Stephen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Cross Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 Peter, are you talking about prepping the plastic or do you use one of the microfillers under the black? I thought they were the same (I used the black for pre-shading on a build I'm involved in now). marauderdriver 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 Stephen _ Use Tamiya tape and tape it on and off your forearm three times ... now it's ready to use with most of the sticky tack gone. It will still adhere to the plastic but will pull off much easier and won't pull the paint with it. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 Bill I use a combination of wet and dry sand paper, micro mesh polishing cloths and polishing sponges. All work as well, it's the grit size that counts. I'm very fond of the polishing sponges and normally find myself using the polishing sponges the most. Sorry for not being very clear. All I am doing is slowly removing any scratches and blemishes from the plastic. Once I'm satisfied the plastic is as smooth and scratch free as I can get it, I wipe it down right before air brushing with a good grade paper towel, dampened with 91% isopropyl alcohol to remove any dust or fingerprints that might contain oil and prevent the Alclad from adhering. Atb this point I'm done polishing unless the black base has a blemish or needs to be buffed out. in that case, wait until it is completely dry: 5-7 days then rub out the blemish with nothing courser then 2000 grit, then polish with 12,000 polishing cloth. . The trick is, the Black base has to look like GLASS and feel like GLASS .. the Alclad will be perfect. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Cross Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 Thanks, I will look to do that for my Mustang. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted January 22, 2014 Share Posted January 22, 2014 Bill Hope everything works out perfectly and looking forward to seeing your 'Stang in the Ready for Inspection Forum. Keep 'em coming Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now