Jump to content
DoogsATX

1/32 Polish F-16D Block 52+ (from Academy Sufa)

Recommended Posts

So this started out as a Greek F-16D. Then the Eduard cockpit PE debacle shattered my motivation and nearly drove me to shelving the kit, even with the arrival of a very nice Wolfpack resin replacement.

 

Then something weird happened. I thought...what if...instead of going Greek, I tackled this kit as a Polish F-16D Block 52+? Motivation instantly returned. Weird how we can trick our brains.

 

329558.jpg

 

I'm planning to stick with the same collection of aftermarket I've got now - Wolfpack cockpit, Wheeliant wheels, possibly some aftermarket weaponry - with the addition of some Techmod Polish Viper decals.

 

So far, work has alternated between cleaning up the myriad of parts involved with the Wolfpack pit, ensuring proper fit, and tonight, installing the dorsal spine and the conformal fuel tanks.

 

The Wokfpack pit is excellent.

 

null_zpse8319605.jpg

 

And it fits!

 

null_zps360906df.jpg

 

So do the chunky bits on the fuselage.

 

file_zps382ea736.jpg

 

The parahousing is going to be interesting. The kit supplies one, but it's too narrow for the dorsal spine, so I'll be spreading, probably with some styrene spacers. 

 

What's to come of the Hellenic Air Force Viper? I'll be tackling it as an F-16C Block 50 instead, using the Tamiya kit with a PWMP tail.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Peterpools

Matt

Nothing like an end run and a new plan to get a stall build going again. Nice work on installing the Wolfpack cockpit tub.

Keep 'em coming

Peter

:popcorn: :popcorn:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have not been idle! It's just been one crazy hell of a week.

 

First, I've been prepping the intake. Damn sink marks.

 

null_zps64d03468.jpg

 

Next, the cockpit. Once I got it cleaned up, I primed it with Gunze Mr. Surfacer 1500.

 

null_zps17e51c9a.jpg

 

Followed up with Gunze 317.

 

IMG_20131107_013518_zps75192529.jpg

 

For the consoles, I'm planning to paint the knobs and buttons and such first in acrylic, then mask and spray black enamel, THEN selectively remove the enamel with toothpicks and microbrushes dunked in enamel thinner. Did a very sloppy proof-of-concept on the spare single tub that came with the kit last night. Not bad.

 

IMG_20131107_012454_zps85949678.jpg

 

My Tamiya Viper should be arriving today, so chances are I will divert to it to get it up to the same point for better dual-tracking.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh man I was wondering if this could be done. Couldnt get any answers and sold the kit. Will watch with interest and may have to splurge again and try it. :popcorn:

James

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh man I was wondering if this could be done. Couldnt get any answers and sold the kit. Will watch with interest and may have to splurge again and try it. :popcorn:

James

 

From what I understand (I'm far from an F-16 expert) the Sufa is externally indistinguishable from an F-16D Block 52+ save for a few very minor details. Details minor enough that I just don't care. The biggest hassle will be the drag chute extension on the tail - there are parts for it in the kit, but they're narrow vs. the dorsal spine, so it'll need some spreading to make everything work just so.

 

The Sufa kit's actually really good in terms of versatility. From what limited understanding I have of all the various blocks, it can basically build any F-16D Block 40, Block 50 or Block 52/52+. Between the different engine parts, intake shapes and so on.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Moment of truth. Sprayed the consoles and IPs with Model Master Aircraft Interior Black cut with a few drops of Gunship Gray.

 

IMG_20131108_235208_zpsb86b0111.jpg

 

Next came removing the enamel to reveal the acrylic-painted details beneath. Overall, not too bad, would try again, but I didn't necessarily feel the sense of control some seem to exhibit with technique (i.e. uncovering tiny raised details in a gauge face).

 

file_zps30dac472.jpg

 

file_zps60b9ed0e.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice work Matt! I'd try doing the paint types the other way around next time though - acrylic over enamel. The acrylic paint will be much easier to remove, affording you more control for less work.

 

Kev

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×