Propwash Posted August 5, 2013 Share Posted August 5, 2013 I'm looking for a debonder for Plastruct Plastic Weld. Currently working on a 1/16 Panda Pzkpfw 38t. A good armor kit in many respects, but a bear to assemble. There's a lack of alignment pins in some areas, and as a result, I misaligned a sandwich of glacis plates. I need to find something that will debond these large, flat surfaces so I can get it right before continuing. Any suggestions? Jerry Peterson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted August 5, 2013 Share Posted August 5, 2013 From personal experience (U probably are already aware, but I wasnt at the time) dont use CA de-bonder! It really attacks plastic and (apparently) is for fingers only....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BradG Posted August 5, 2013 Share Posted August 5, 2013 If the name is what it does, welding the two parts together via chemical reaction, then you're probably screwed. You could try putting the part in the freezer to see if you can crack the plastic that has melted together in the join, but it might not work, especially if you loaded up on it and really squashed the sections together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Propwash Posted August 5, 2013 Author Share Posted August 5, 2013 BradG, on 05 Aug 2013 - 06:22, said: If the name is what it does, welding the two parts together via chemical reaction, then you're probably screwed. You could try putting the part in the freezer to see if you can crack the plastic that has melted together in the join, but it might not work, especially if you loaded up on it and really squashed the sections together. Been doing some research elsewhere, and it appears you're right. Once plastic weld dries, the only thing for it is to cut away the parts, which in this case would probably mangle them beyond recognition. Not a total loss though. It's just that I'm going to end up with a gap of about .05 mm to fill. I wasn't particularly enthusiastic about this kit anyway. I got it mainly to brush up on my modeling skills after a long hiatus, so I guess I can write this little screw up off as a learning experience. Jerry Peterson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wunwinglow Posted August 5, 2013 Share Posted August 5, 2013 (edited) No way you can get a razor saw on the join, is there? There are some blades which fit in scalpel handles which have fine teeth and will make a very neat, thin cut in polystyrene, and they will get into places the bigger zona type blades might struggle with. Tim Edited August 5, 2013 by wunwinglow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Propwash Posted August 5, 2013 Author Share Posted August 5, 2013 No way you can get a razor saw on the join, is there? There are some blades which fit in scalpel handles which have fine teeth and will make a very neat, thin cut in polystyrene, and they will get into places the bigger zona type blades might struggle with. Tim On second thought, it might work. The razor saw blades I currently have are too coarse for the job, but I've seen others that are much finer. Think I'll order up one of those and give it a shot. Jerry Peterson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2whl Posted August 5, 2013 Share Posted August 5, 2013 Get some p/e saws such as this one. The car modelers use them to open up doors, trunks, etc. http://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Tools/TAM00074105/product.php?s=4&t=0&u=1&pg=1&ppp=48&sb=stocknumber&so=a&e=0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted August 5, 2013 Share Posted August 5, 2013 I have used weld to loosen the seam then pried the parts apart. Sincerely, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Propwash Posted August 6, 2013 Author Share Posted August 6, 2013 Get some p/e saws such as this one. The car modelers use them to open up doors, trunks, etc. http://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Tools/TAM00074105/product.php?s=4&t=0&u=1&pg=1&ppp=48&sb=stocknumber&so=a&e=0 That's just what I had in mind. I've seen those blades elsewhere and always intended to pick up a set. Now I have a reason. I knew if I posted this dilemma here some keen minds would come up with a solution. Many thanks! Jerry Peterson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csavaglio Posted August 6, 2013 Share Posted August 6, 2013 The razor saws from UMM are awesome.....one of those tools you never knew how you lived without. You can make cuts within panel lines..... As was said, styrene cements are actually just solvents that melt the plastic. Once bonded, you'll probably need to cut it loose unless it's not a very good bond, then you can use the cement to re-melt the bond. Personally, I'd just bust out the razor saw. Any damage can be fixed with filler and styrene stock. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparzanza Posted August 6, 2013 Share Posted August 6, 2013 When I needed to get my Stuka's wing halves open I just put a razor blade and tucked it between the halves and twisted back and forth gently until there was a little "snap", and voila. Maybe a bit risky but yeah.. it's an idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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