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Aerotech 1/32 Speed Spitfire


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Enjoy the relative sunshine Kev and get some spraying done before the weather turns to kack .

 

I wish I could mate! Got another site update to get out today, and the rest of the day is devoted to housework and gardening.

 

Kev

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  • 3 weeks later...

OK folks, apologies for the lack of updates on this one - and I was going so well, too! But unfortunately my modelling time has dried up of late, and I've only managed to snatch a few moments here and there. I've also been working on a small scale project as a bit of a diversion, but that's just about finished (I'll post it in Non-LSP Works when the time comes).

 

In the meantime, I've finally started painting this thing, starting with the underside in Tamiya AS-12:

 

W9hIjm.jpg

 

My rattle can is now empty, and all I've got left is half a 10ml paint jar that I've decanted some into. I don't seem to be able to find any online either, so if I run out I might be a bit stuck for a while! Still, I shouldn't need more than I've got for this project.

 

Kev

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Whoa...........been a bit! Good to see some progress Kev. I know all too well about running out of paint for a project mid-stream. With my touch of OCD it really bugs me when it does happen.

Edited by Out2gtcha
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  • 2 weeks later...

OK guys, time for a quick update. With my modelling time all but dried up at the moment, it's the best I can do to snatch 10 minutes here and there. Since my last update I've managed to finish off painting the underside, and it's looking OK I think. The resin on this model has lots of undulations and raised 'lumpy' areas, probably from where the surface detail on the original Revell kit has been filled in. This is particularly noticeable on the underside of the wings, and while I managed to reduce the effect significantly, it's still there, and does mitigate the silver finish somewhat. It's not catastrophic though, and as I said, I think it looks pretty good.

 

Other than that I've been working on the wheels. You may recall from earlier in the thread that the kit's rubber wheels were just not going to work, not just because they are horrible rubber, but mostly because the tyres are way too big for the rims. As it happens, I accidentally bought a set of Barracuda 5-spoke wheels for my Matchbox Mk 24 build, before realising I needed the 3-spoke set for that model. Luckily, they're perfect for this one! They're not designed to fit this kit however, so I had to modify their rears slightly. In the photo below, the wheel on the right is unmodified, while the one on the left shows the result of me scraping away the central 'mound' to accept the flat disc of the Aerotech white metal part:

 

lepWq6.jpg

 

I also drilled out the hole to accept the mounting pin. The wheels themselves had a couple of slight moulding flaws towards their moulded-in flat spots, so I filled them with a CA/talc mix, and once sanded back and cleaned up, gave the them a couple of decent coats of Mr Surfacer. This was followed with some Tamiya Rubber Black (XF-85), which dries so flat that it looks porous! In the photo below you can see this effect with the tyre on the right; the one on the left has been buffed with an old cloth, and the effect is quite convincing I think:

 

BUTe9L.jpg

 

I sprayed the hubs with Tamiya AS-12 using a circle template, and cleaned up the area around the rims using a heavy wash of Rubber Black and X-20A. Here's the result after the hubs were given a wash of Payne's Gray oil paint:

 

2n6mFo.jpg

 

The wheels are just placed on the gear legs for effect. It's a shame the camera flash has made all that exquisite detail difficult to see, as they really do look fantastic. I'll attach the wheels using JB Weld, though I'm uncertain whether to do that before attaching the landing gear or after.

 

I also managed to paint the flaps...

 

qfVgWR.jpg

 

...and the cockpit door (inside only):

 

faLxhS.jpg

 

OK folks, that's it for now!

 

Kev

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Thanks Brian. Enjoy Reno!

 

Pretty much the last task to complete before I can paint the upper surfaces is to prepare and fit the vacform canopy sections:

 

cRH6Hy.jpg

 

It's best to tackle one section at a time, and the first thing to do is choose which one to start with and pack it out with something. In this case I used Silly Putty, which is firm enough to give the requisite support, but pliable enough to be easy to push into shape. And best of all, it won't mar or stick to the plastic:

 

SK3gPF.jpg

 

Not only does packing out provide support while you handle and cut out the canopy, it also helps define the shape and cut lines better. However, a common problem with vac canopies is that the cut lines can be indistinct, so in this case I added some tape to mark the position of the canopy's edge. This is not meant to act as a guide for the knife, just your eye!

 

lrNlaO.jpg

 

Now, there are several approaches to cutting out vacform canopies. One method is to use small, sharp scissors (such as cuticle scissors) and simply cut around the shape (carefully!). If you try this approach it's usually better not to pack it out. If the clear plastic used in the forming has a bit of stiffness about it, you may be able to get away with using a fine, sharp razor saw. Most vac canopies I've come across really don't lend themselves to this approach though.

 

The most common way, and the method I chose here, was to simply score around the shape with a brand-new #11 blade. It's very important to a fit a virgin blade to your knife though, as it must be as sharp as possible. Never was the old adage a sharp knife is a tool, a blunt knife is a weapon more appropriate than here. Pressure is your enemy, causing your blade to slip and your canopy to ruin!

 

Anyway, here's the result:

 

8LgRpc.jpg

 

You can see from the photo above, and the close-up below, that it's a little rough. But that's OK; as long as the blade stayed on our outside the edge of the shape, the rough spots and excess can be cleaned up with a sanding stick. The plastic used in this kit sands away quite easily, so you have to tread carefully and check your progress regularly. After about 20 minutes' work with the sanding stick, we arrive at this:

 

UicOz1.jpg

 

JDUeP7.jpg

 

Not bad! My only real error is cutting or sanding the rear of the port side a little short. I normally affix canopies with white glue, but in this case I'll use some CA to tack it into place, as the mating edges are so thin and the unit is hardly an exact fit. I'll back-fill any gaps and seal it in with white glue after that.

 

The other two canopy sections should be easier to deal with than this first one, so I'll have them ready for the next update.

 

Thanks as always for looking in!

 

Kev

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Hi Kev,

 

Lovely work on that canopy, cannot wait to see the finished job, I had to scratch build mine using the old MkI model plus bits from Airies, GMF, Paragon.

had to cancel my order with Aerotech as I needed mine finished for 2011.

 

Can't wait to compare, keep the great work going,

 

Bob.

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Hi Kev, vac canopys are one of my many modelling nightmares, but yours is looking good, keep up the good work !

 

Cheers

 

Den.

 

Thanks Den. That's one of the reasons I decided to break the process down and describe it in some detail. Hopefully what I've shown will encourage others to give it a go and not be afraid of them.

 

Kev

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Guest Peterpools

Kev

Holy Cow, does the canopy and it's fit look good. Thanks so much for taking the time to show us "Rookies" how it's done

Looking real good

Keep 'em coming

:popcorn: :popcorn:

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Thanks Den. That's one of the reasons I decided to break the process down and describe it in some detail. Hopefully what I've shown will encourage others to give it a go and not be afraid of them.

 

Kev

 

Spot on Kev :thumbsup:

 

Derek

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Did a great job on it buddy ! I've only done 1 so far and that was JR's vac rear canopy for my 38M. Scared the crap out of me, but came out OK. Used the same plan as you. Great job so far . Love it !................Harv :popcorn:

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Well folks, here are the canopies after being removed, cleaned up and dipped in Future about 3 times:

 

HJLc0z.jpg

 

I had a bit of trouble with bench-top detritus being drawn to the bottoms of the things while the Future was curing, and this despite being covered up! So they're not as pristine as they look in the photo, but close enough for rock'n'roll.

 

In other news, some of you may recall from the start of the thread that my kit is missing one of its exhaust stacks. I sent a couple of emails off to John Simons at Marsh Models about this, and heard nothing back. This is despite an explicit notice on one of the supplied sheets asking you to contact them about any missing or damaged parts. While I can empathise with the notion that a review sample might not qualify in that regard, I still think it's pretty poor to not respond at all, and I can only hope that it's not indicative of the service you get when you purchase one of their kits.

 

So, with that avenue seemingly a dead end, I set about trying to cast a copy of the one I do have. If anyone remembers the trials and tribulations I had with resin casting previously (in my 190S thread), you'll know that I never quite successfully conquered it. This time I have a slightly easier part to work with, and have been determined to produce a usable part.

 

My first effort was encouraging from side on, but from the top it was clear that I hadn't pushed the part into the modelling clay evenly, and it came out looking like a split pea:

 

drtMvW.jpg

 

I knew immediately that I'd need to remake the mould and be much more careful about getting the two halves even. So after round two I was getting closer:

 

xZhxlP.jpg

 

But unfortunately it came out about 50% thicker than the original, and the exhaust pipes were malformed. So, I thought I'd give it one more go. I couldn't make a new mould as I'd used up all my RTV silicone. Besides, I figured the mould was probably OK. This time I resorted to some gentle clamping to stop the mould spreading or moving:

 

WrUB9W.jpg

 

I really thought I had this one, but it was not to be:

 

k8vAVt.jpg

 

As you can see, I had massive resin leakage, and lots of air bubbles. So the lesson is, no clamping! However, it's also way too thick, so I suspect my mould cavities are also too deep, though perhaps on one side only.

 

Anyway, this is where I'm currently stuck until I can get some more silicone. I also suspect that I'd be better served with a one-part mould, but I have no real idea how to achieve that. Suggestions welcome!

 

Kev

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I also suspect that I'd be better served with a one-part mould, but I have no real idea how to achieve that. Suggestions welcome!

 

Hi Kev,

 

I was going to suggest this course of action. Make up a clamped mould box for the exhaust as normal, but fill it with RTV and insert your exhaust (supported on the feed tubes) with a flat top that will rest above the mould. Once cured, break off the flat top and support tubes and partially make a vertical incision with a scalpel down one side of the mould (do not cut into the part itself). Here comes the cleaver bit; tear open the mould along the incision just sufficiently enough to remove the part. Once the part is removed allow the parted mould to join together again accurately and clamp the mould sides. Pour in your resin (tapping out any bubbles) and once cured part the mould again to remove the cast resin part.

 

To help degas your mould find a large or reasonable sized plastic tub with an airtight sealable lid. Pour your resin into the mould, tapping out as much air as you can and place it into the bottom of the tub. Place the lid into the tub and seal the edges for approximately 80% of its circumference. On the final 20% or so left of the unsealed lid, press firmly down in the middle of the lid whilst simultaniously sealing the remaining 20% of the lid to create an airtight seal. The action of pressing the lid down during the sealing will create a vacuum within the tube that will degas most of (but not fully) the air bubbles in the resin part during the curing process.

 

HTH

 

Derek

Edited by Derek B
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