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A quick update folks. I've got the tail planes on and the first two rounds of fill/sand completed:

 

rxI71U.jpg

 

I've also run some Mr Surfacer 500 through the panel lines in order to tone them down a bit. The application looks a little patchy in places, but I'll give the entire airframe a primer coat before deciding whether they need more work.

 

I have a quick question though: what colour should the interior of the radiators be?

 

Kev

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Not an update as such this one, though I have managed to get the tail planes largely sorted out. Just in the fill/sand cycle now, plus starting to apply some Mr Surfacer 500 to the some of the surface trenches. This post though is about the main wheels, which we haven't really looked at up until now. Just to recap, they consist of a pair of rubber/vinyl tyres, into which are inserted their respective resin hubs. There are two main issues however (what is it with me and Spitfire wheels?). The first and most serious is that they simply do not fit each other. The hub is too small for the tyre:

 

...

 

The angle doesn't show it, but the same amount of daylight visible at the sides is visible at the top. Personally I think that problem is not solvable with these parts. Hub detail is quite serviceable though, which is a bit of a shame.

 

The other issue is a perennial one for this type of tyre, and some of you may have read Jamie Haggo's recent blog update wondering why we all hate them. This is why:

 

...

 

I've scraped, cut and sanded that moulded-in seam and it just ain't goin' nowhere. In fact the more I sanded the more noticeable it became. And the rubber just gets out of the way of any blade applied to it.

 

So, the kit wheels are a write-off! Luckily I mistakenly bought those Barracuda 5-spoke Spitfire wheels a few weeks back, eh?

 

Kev

 

Why don't you try to put the wheels in the freezer (-30° C) before trying to cut/scrape the mold lines ? Cooling down (to - 55° C admittedly) rubber allows us to do some machining and engraving with a high-speed CNC cutter .

 

Hubert

Edited by MostlyRacers

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Why don't you try to put the wheels in the freezer (-30° C) before trying to cut/scrape the mold lines ? Cooling down (to - 55° C admittedly) rubber allows us to do some machining and engraving with a high-speed CNC cutter .

 

Hubert

 

Interesting idea Hubert! I'll have to throw a thermometer in our freezer and see how low it goes.

 

Kev

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Kev,

Nice work ...

 

Will these spitfire photos links et al help to see what color the radiator should be..

 

The walk around...{there is a list to peruse}...just to show an eaxmple..the second link gives your anidea..you may have seen this link already .. :popcorn:

 

http://www.cybermodeler.com/aircraft/spitfire/spitfire1_walk.shtml

 

 

Then this one has all the different models of Spitfire..for walk arounds etc ..

 

 

http://www.cybermodeler.com/aircraft/spitfire/spitfire_all.shtml

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Thanks Maru. It looks from the photos in those links you posted that they're generally the same colour as the undersurface. Sounds a better bet to me than interior green.

 

In the meantime I set about assembling the cockpit door. If you remember, I was uncertain about the fact that the kit provides no resin part for this, and the instructions are a bit ambiguous on that score. So I decided to assemble the PE parts as if they were intended to be the final product, and the result indicates that this is probably the case:

 

eA6z0o.jpg

 

Apologies for the poor photo. The door, internal frame and locking handle are three separate PE parts. I curved the door and frame by rolling them separately under a thick hobby knife handle on my cutting mat. A test fit into the opening on the fuselage confirms in my mind that no resin part is required:

 

v8iDAB.jpg

 

It also confirms that the door is really intended to be posed in the open position, as the fit here is not as tight as you'd otherwise want. But it isn't bad!

 

My next job is to get some primer on the airframe, but I also need to build up the PE flaps. Again, it appears that this is not an exercise in adding PE detail to resin base parts, but rather building the complete flaps entirely from photo-etched parts. And a lot of them! Wish me luck...

 

Kev

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A quick update folks. I've got the tail planes on and the first two rounds of fill/sand completed:

 

rxI71U.jpg

 

I've also run some Mr Surfacer 500 through the panel lines in order to tone them down a bit. The application looks a little patchy in places, but I'll give the entire airframe a primer coat before deciding whether they need more work.

 

I have a quick question though: what colour should the interior of the radiators be?

 

Kev

Kev

 

Was the wing modified on the real plane? cause the shape in this one pic does not look like a Spitty elliptical wing shape?

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Was the wing modified on the real plane?

 

Yep, very much so Ron. Wing tips were changed and all panels and hatches puttied and smoothed over. Also, the starboard underwing radiator was enlarged.

 

Kev

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Looking forward to seeing this girl in some primer.

 

Me too! Might have to wait until the weather sorts itself out though. Having said that, the only rattle can primer I have left in stock is the white stuff, and I'm not convinced about that as a primer. I think it makes for too bright an undercoat. I guess I can airbrush some Mr Surfacer 1200 over the top.

 

Kev

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Are you having any luck with the finer grades of Mr. Surfacer? I can only seem to get the 500 to work worth a darn for me. Are the different grades that much different? The White ones always appear to spray unevenly or with different degrees of matt finish. They never seem to sand out as well as 500 does. I just use Lacquer thinners to spray or most times apply with a brush to check joints and such and the 500 works a treat.

 

Go away rain :(

 

Dan

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Dan, it's important not to use the lacquer thinners from Bunnings for thinning Mr Surfacer! I use it for clean up, but not thinning, as it's only marginally compatible, and for me just produces spider-webbing out of the airbrush at ratios less than about 4:1 (ie, too thin to be useful as a primer). I thin Mr Surfacer only with Mr Color Thinner now. I generally prefer to use the rattle cans for larger surfaces or areas where I need good coverage or the highest surface deficiency compensation indexTM. I thin and airbrush the stuff out of the bottle for small parts or spot-fixing, or like now when I'm all out of the rattle cans.

 

However, stocks of all Gunze products have been really hard to get in Australia for a while. A new shipment arrived a couple of weeks ago, but didn't contain any rattle cans. The only one I have left is Mr White Surfacer, which I like to use as both primer and colour coat for white airliners - works great! Other than that I find it a pain to overcoat with other colours, because it makes them too bright unless I really layer it on. Ironic. That's why most primers come in a neutral grey. I have some Mr White Surfacer in the jar too, but haven't had need to use it yet.

 

Of course, other folks swear by the Tamiya stuff, but I can only ever find the fine grade in white. Apparently it exists in grey, but I've never seen it. I have a can of their grey primer, but it's the 'standard' grade (equivalent of Mr Surfacer 500 I guess), and I'm not fond of it. I only use 500 out of the jar with a brush. Since you have to thin it for airbrushing, using the 1200 makes more sense, as there's less thinning to do.

 

OK, rambling now...oh yeah...I think I was trying to say that I'm nearly out of Mr Color Thinner too.

 

Kev

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Righto fellas, I'm back. I've installed, painted and washed the PE radiator faces:

 

u7nUF7.jpg

 

Oftbdc.jpg

 

I've also painted up the prop:

 

3FYQF8.jpg

 

Tamiya Rubber Black followed by a coat of Humbrol Satin Coat, as the Tamiya Rubber Black dries to a very chalky texture and needs to be smoothed out a bit.

 

I've also added the PE detail pieces to the undercarriage doors:

 

VUE8PC.jpg

 

These are quite thick now, but that's OK as long as, when combined with the struts, they're strong enough to take the weight of the model!

 

Here's the PE fret containing the parts for the flaps:

 

yoPKi5.jpg

 

This fret (from which the cockpit door parts also came) is noticeably thicker than the other two PE frets in the kit. This tends to support the idea of the PE flaps being standalone parts. Let's hope I can get them together without too much trouble!

 

Kev

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