Jump to content

Aerotech 1/32 Speed Spitfire


Recommended Posts

Looking forward to seeing this girl in some primer.

 

Me too! Might have to wait until the weather sorts itself out though. Having said that, the only rattle can primer I have left in stock is the white stuff, and I'm not convinced about that as a primer. I think it makes for too bright an undercoat. I guess I can airbrush some Mr Surfacer 1200 over the top.

 

Kev

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dan, it's important not to use the lacquer thinners from Bunnings for thinning Mr Surfacer! I use it for clean up, but not thinning, as it's only marginally compatible, and for me just produces spider-webbing out of the airbrush at ratios less than about 4:1 (ie, too thin to be useful as a primer). I thin Mr Surfacer only with Mr Color Thinner now. I generally prefer to use the rattle cans for larger surfaces or areas where I need good coverage or the highest surface deficiency compensation indexTM. I thin and airbrush the stuff out of the bottle for small parts or spot-fixing, or like now when I'm all out of the rattle cans.

 

However, stocks of all Gunze products have been really hard to get in Australia for a while. A new shipment arrived a couple of weeks ago, but didn't contain any rattle cans. The only one I have left is Mr White Surfacer, which I like to use as both primer and colour coat for white airliners - works great! Other than that I find it a pain to overcoat with other colours, because it makes them too bright unless I really layer it on. Ironic. That's why most primers come in a neutral grey. I have some Mr White Surfacer in the jar too, but haven't had need to use it yet.

 

Of course, other folks swear by the Tamiya stuff, but I can only ever find the fine grade in white. Apparently it exists in grey, but I've never seen it. I have a can of their grey primer, but it's the 'standard' grade (equivalent of Mr Surfacer 500 I guess), and I'm not fond of it. I only use 500 out of the jar with a brush. Since you have to thin it for airbrushing, using the 1200 makes more sense, as there's less thinning to do.

 

OK, rambling now...oh yeah...I think I was trying to say that I'm nearly out of Mr Color Thinner too.

 

Kev

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Righto fellas, I'm back. I've installed, painted and washed the PE radiator faces:

 

u7nUF7.jpg

 

Oftbdc.jpg

 

I've also painted up the prop:

 

3FYQF8.jpg

 

Tamiya Rubber Black followed by a coat of Humbrol Satin Coat, as the Tamiya Rubber Black dries to a very chalky texture and needs to be smoothed out a bit.

 

I've also added the PE detail pieces to the undercarriage doors:

 

VUE8PC.jpg

 

These are quite thick now, but that's OK as long as, when combined with the struts, they're strong enough to take the weight of the model!

 

Here's the PE fret containing the parts for the flaps:

 

yoPKi5.jpg

 

This fret (from which the cockpit door parts also came) is noticeably thicker than the other two PE frets in the kit. This tends to support the idea of the PE flaps being standalone parts. Let's hope I can get them together without too much trouble!

 

Kev

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've got to agree with Brian, Kev, looks really good so far. I didn't realize that the wing profile was so different from the standard Spitfire though, very interesting. Always thought it had a standard wing, different engine, prop, and forward canopy. See, even I can learn somethin' new. Ya know what they say about old dogs (or Wolves) eh?

 

She's turnin' in to a real beauty Kevin!

 

Cheers,

Wolf

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks chaps! Plenty more to do yet though. I've managed to put the flaps together however:

 

zixmW9.jpg

 

eKj9nj.jpg

 

f4NYLl.jpg

 

This is two of the three parts, and since taking these photos I've completed the third part. They weren't that difficult in the end, though I somehow managed to end up with one section of brass rod that was too short. I think I cut a length off it earlier in the build without thinking about it, but I don't remember why now. Anyway, I replaced it with some brass tubing of the same diameter. This isn't as stiff as the solid rod, but I managed to get it to work. You'll also notice that I've now fitted the two radiator housing on the underside.

 

I was hoping to be able to get some primer on it this weekend, but I didn't get there unfortunately. Still, it's moving along!

 

Kev

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice!

 

Gonna look cool w/some paint on her....................

 

Thanks Brian. I haven't done much to this one in the last few days, as I've been trying to get the Mk 24 off my bench. I have added the small intake that goes between the two wings on the underside (sorry, I don't really know what it's called!). I've got a few nicks and dents to clean up, and the tail plane joins are still a bit grungy, but after that I should be able to move quickly through the priming and painting stages. I hope!

 

Kev

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The flaps look good. Note on a Spitfire the flaps do not have various settings, they were either full down (90 degrees) or full up. Spitfires were rarely parked with the flaps down unless under maintenance. There also was a little indicator door on each upper wing that opened when the flaps were lowered, it opened to clear the actuating linkage that lowered the flaps. Here's a pic of one of my Spitty's with the flaps down that shows the door.

 

P6260008.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info Ron. Those panels are scribed into the surface of the upper wing, but being solid resin, I've got no hope of opening them up! To be honest I'd prefer to build this with the flaps up, since as you say that's more like what happens in real life. But this kit is really designed to have them down, and installing them in the up position would be quite the exercise in frustration I reckon! There's also the additional rider of me trying as close to OOB as possible so it can function as a build review of sorts.

 

I wasn't aware about the 90 degree thing with the flaps though, which could get interesting! I'm not sure I'll be able to extend them that far, but I'll get them as close as possible.

 

Kev

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No worries. I found this picture on the internet (I will remove if using it offends anyone) but it clearly shows the flap angle, all up or this angle when down, they cannot be set in between on the real plane. This is the case with all Mk's of Spitty's

 

Spitfire-landing-E.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

.....and installing them in the up position would be quite the exercise in frustration I reckon! There's also the additional rider of me trying as close to OOB as possible so it can function as a build review of sorts.

 

 

 

Kev

I understand your desire to keep this OOB, Kev, but if you did decide to put the flaps "up", could you just backfill the flap troughs with Milliput, sand it smooth, and re-scribe the panel lines? just a thought.... :hmmm:

Edited by Lee White
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I understand your desire to keep this OOB, Kev, but if you did decide to put the flaps "up", could you just backfill the flap troughs with Milliput, sand it smooth, and re-scribe the panel lines? just a thought.... :hmmm:

 

Yeah, I reckon it could be done, but I'm not up for it. Saving all my Milliput for the Trumpy birdcage Corsair...besides, after Ron's post I realised that I had the geometry of the flaps backwards in my head; all I have to do is straighten the little locating tabs out again and they'll hang at close to 90 degrees as required.

 

Kev

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think the flap angle for the down position is actually 87 degrees but hey what is 3 degrees between friend?

 

Looking good there Kev. How do you find the time to build with all your web work?

 

Brad

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think the flap angle for the down position is actually 87 degrees but hey what is 3 degrees between friend?

 

Looking good there Kev. How do you find the time to build with all your web work?

 

Brad

 

Thanks Brad. But if you'll notice, it's been close to 2 weeks since I've posted an actual build update in this thread! I have been tinkering with it, but nothing substantial enough to warrant an update. Hopefully this weekend!

 

Kev

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...