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1/28th Revell SPAD XIII

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Hi guys,

 

Next step was slapping the paint on.

But what were the colours used on the SPAD?

As is usual with WW1 aircraft, paint colours varied enourmously between manufacturers and batches. :hmmm:

 

So I opted for an approximation without having to mix colors to make life easy for me!

The Windsock datafile gives Methuen codes.

These are not really accessible for me, so I searched the internet on suitable translations or colour information. :mental:

 

I ended up on the Aerodrome Forum where someone posted a list of FS approximations of the colours used on the SPAD XIII.

Again using the internet I searched for the appropriate paints.

I found some Humbrol and Xtracolor equivalents.

 

I had to look several colours up in my trusted FS colour chips book and selected a close approximation from my paint collection. :innocent:

 

I ended up with this list:

 

Uppersurface:

Sand - FS 30266 Xtracolor X9

Light green - FS 34258 Xtracolor X120

Dark Green - FS 34069 Humbrol H116

Brown - FS 30099 Humbrol 86

Black any paint brand. I always use Revell 9 Anthrazit which is in fact a very dark grey.

 

Undersurface:

For Rickenbackers' SPAD XIII, it seems that the consensus is that the French yellow protective paint was used

on the undersurfaces. So for me it is

Yellow- FS 13596 Xtracolor X29, but I will settle on Humbrol 74 which is more yellow than X29 (Light Stone). :innocent:

 

Here is some progress.

Sand sprayed, partial masking for the light green:

 

IMG_1848.JPG

 

Light green sprayed:

 

IMG_1849.JPG

 

 

Dark green added, picture taken at night. No i didn't bother with white balance for the pic :P :

 

IMG_1884.JPG

 

And finally all top colours applied today:

 

IMG_1890.JPG

 

IMG_1888.JPG

 

There was a lot of masking involved to get the topside done. Underside is next.

 

To be continued...

 

Cheers,

 

Peter

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Nice !

 

I'm just a bit confused in the fact that you use matt and glossy together.Is it still wet or do you cover it all later with varnish ?

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Hi Erwin,

 

Thanks!

It is indeed a mix of matt and gloss paint, because most Xtracolor paints are gloss.

A coat of varnish will blend them in.

 

Cheers,

 

Peter

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Peter,

It's good to see such a talented modeler take on an old classic kit my friend. Well Done and keep up the grand works.

Highest Regards,

Gregory Jouette

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Hi Guys,

 

Sorry for the late reply,

It was busy in and out of the office... :oops:

Thanks for the heads-up, it's appreciated!

Anyway, I managed to continue on the SPAD.

 

Gunze gloss varnish, thinned with screenwasher fluid, was sprayed on the model.

Indeed, as expected, all camouflage colours blended in nicely.

 

After hardening for a week or so, some subtle drybrushing and washing of panels,

vents and so on was executed to lift the detail.

 

Here is the colour scheme in all its glory:

 

IMG_2036.JPG

 

IMG_2037.JPG

 


IMG_2043.JPG

 

Note that the engine cowlings and engine are just temporarily fitted. ;)

 

The guns were assembled, painted and drybrushed as well.

Ofcourse, some ejector pin marks had to be removed :wacko:

 

IMG_2042.JPG

 

And finally the radiator front was sprayed red and washed black and the wheels were sprayed as well.

 

IMG_2041.JPG

 

Note that the blue paint, Revell 56, will darken after an application of gloss varnish.

Then it will match the blue in the markings of Eddy Rickenbacker.

The soft demarcation between the red and blue colors will be covered with a white star decal. :coolio:

 

Now, I continue with the wing struts etc.

Did I mention there are more ejector pin marks to be removed ? :wacko:

 

To be continued...

 

Cheers,

 

Peter

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Thanks Erwin and Dan!

 

You are a brave, brave man to hope a white decal will cover that colour demarcation.

 

Love the Spad and the camo. How are you going to rig her?

 

Dan

 

Hi Dan, not so brave, merely practical.

I didn't want to fill in an open area with red paint on a white decal. ;)

Besides, recent Revell decals are pretty opaque, so I hope for the best! :unsure:

 

This model is for a group display, I'm building several old kits OOB with current experience and techniques.

I even restore lost rivets after sanding with Archer rivet decals on old Airfix kits! :wacko:

 

So for the SPAD it will be rigging as per the instructions!

This means the big thread eyelets on the struts will also remain in-situ.

...And ofcourse no eyelets and buckles from Bob's Buckles will be appied. :P

 

However, rigging material will be fishing wire or Aeroclub lycra rigging thread.

I haven't made up my mind yet.

 

Wing struts have been given a wood grain and some small strip decals from a WNW FE2 sheet.

 

Pics to follow soon.

 

Cheers,

 

Peter

 

 

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Hi guys,

 

Here are the promised pictures of the struts.

 

The wing struts;

IMG_2076.JPG

 

And the cabane struts in place;

 

IMG_2074.JPG

 

Again, the engine and cowlings were only added for the picture.

 

Now it was time to attach the upper wing.

 

First, I cleaned the slots in the wings to ensure a good fit of the wing struts.

While testfitting, I noticed some rubber bands would be required to ensure that the struts remained in their slots.

The cabane struts couldn't take the strain so broke away. :angry2:

Luckily, at the big attachment points on the fuselage, it was only the glue that gave away. :)

 

So, without the cabane struts, the top wing was glued in place wit rubber bands holding it in position.

The WNW sourced jig was put to good use to ensure the wings were aligned correctly while drying ;) :

IMG_2088.JPG

 

That's all for now.

Next instalment will tell you how I put in the cabane struts again and how I had to fiddle with the instrument panel.

 

To be continued.

 

Cheers,

 

Peter

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Thanks guys!

 

Well, after the glue of the wing struts had set, it was time to install the cabane struts.

This was a bit of a struggle. The aft struts had to go in first.

The wing had to be pushed up to get them to fit.

Note that the fuselage remains very flexible, because the walls are thin.

 

Guess what happened: the instrument panel came loose and ofcourse the upper seam at the headrest tore open!

AAAARGHH!!

 

Because the instrument panel has an U-shape, it hooked after everything in the cockpit. :help:

 

After much wiggling and juggling and swearing, I got it back in position again and was able to glue it back on

with a small brush of MEK. :yahoo:

Sorry guys, no pictures of that one. :innocent:

 

The seam on the headrest was quickly restored. It still awaits a final touch up wit a brush.

 

Anyway, the rear cabane struts were firmly in place!

 

Now the forward ones had to go in.

This time, the wing was sitting too high there, so it had to be pushed down in order to make the struts fit. :hmmm:

 

I solved this by pulling the wings down with masking tape, as seen here:

 

IMG_2090.JPG

 

Now I was able to fit the forward struts in precisely.

I only glued the rear ones.

 

Well, the small glue surfaces of the struts would have to put up with a lot of strain. :hmmm:

I decided to install the forward landing wires to give the model some strength here.

Obviously, fishing wire is required for strength so this was used.

 

For strength, I also had to deviate from the plan to build strictly OOB,

because the original rigging holes are located in the struts and not in the upper wing.

Fortunately, the holes for the cabane struts in the upper wing are slightly elongated.

Which makes them perfect for the addition of rigging:

 

IMG_2153.JPG

 

 

After the glue had set overnight I removed the tape.

The plan had worked, the big forward struts did not tore loose. :frantic:

 

Lastly, I reattached the small forward struts.

They were held in place with tweezers until the glue (Revell Contacta Professional this time) had set:

 

IMG_2146.JPG

 

This is the result so far:

 

IMG_2150.JPG

 

Again, engine and cowlings are only added for the picture. ;)

 

Next step is filling the trenches between the struts with wood glue and touching up with the camouflage colours

 

To be continued!

 

Cheers,

 

Peter

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