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Tamiya P-51D Mustang Finished 9/26/13


Daywalker

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Guest Peterpools

Frank

Papa Tamiya to the rescue. Thanks for letting us in on the pitfalls of filling in the wing seams and rivets. I'm looking at doing another Tamiya Mustang and will leave the wings alone and as is.

cIce work on the spacer for the gear door supports.

Keep 'em coming

:popcorn: :popcorn:

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Been enjoying reading through this thread immensely. Great tip for the seatbelts which look a million dollars :)

I love the crisp painting and detailing in the pit.

 

I assume it is compulsory to go and try out nice cars during a build. I will discuss with my wife...

 

Cheers

Don

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Been enjoying reading through this thread immensely. Great tip for the seatbelts which look a million dollars :)

I love the crisp painting and detailing in the pit.

 

I assume it is compulsory to go and try out nice cars during a build. I will discuss with my wife...

 

Cheers

Don

 

Cheers Don, so happy you have enjoyed this build so far! Wish I could remember where I first heard of using money for seatbelts so I could credit them properly- sure does work a treat.

 

And yes, trying out exotic cars during a build helps IMMENSELY, hope you are able to get the wife to understand! :piliot:

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  • 2 months later...

Sorry for the delay in progress reports, I have been spending more time building and less time on the boards. I was finally able to get my photo booth set up again, so I quick snapped some photos to show where I am with this one.

 

I have manged to paint the airframe in it's aluminum paint using Alclad Aluminum. I used a spare Tamiya P-51D wing as a test piece, to see how it would work out spraying this paint directly onto the kit plastic. The test went well, so I proceeded to paint the model. It didn't go quite as well, leaving a fairly rough texture to the paint. I was able to knock this back using coffee filters to an acceptable surface. I then proceeded to begin masking some panels on the bottom of the wing to spray some different shades, but to my horror the Tamiya tape took a significant amount of paint clean off! I had tested the masking on my test piece, and had no issues. Not sure what went wrong, but I was able to take the Alclad and touch up the damaged areas fairly easily. I knew I needed to mask and spray AT LEAST the panels around the exhaust as well as the anti glare panel, and honestly I was scared to death to try it. I was able to use post it notes for the nose panels (also did the gun bay covers) and they worked well. I wish now looking back I had used a darker shade, as they do not stand out as much as I would like them to. I may go back and darken them, but will have to work up the courage as I do not want to damage anything up there now! The anti glare panel was longer than the post it notes, and I knew I would not be able to splice them together and get a seamless demarcation line. I ended up taking strips of Tamiya tape and removed nearly all of the adhesive, which kept it from lifting the paint but also made it difficult to get it to conform to the compound curve on the nose. In the end, I think it turned out OK. This is my very first NMF, and I am really seeing the realities of doing these schemes. I had read it everywhere, but was not quite prepared for the amount of surface prep needed.

 

002-4.jpg

001-5.jpg

 

Next time, I will spend more time getting it right and will probably use a primer too! I really want to get this one (as well as the other two) finished so I can get back to that Tamiya Corsair. What an amazing kit that one is turning out to be!

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Coming along well Frank. I know what you mean about sweating out pulling paint off. Been there done that! What I have found to work well, at least for me, is using a undercoat of semi-gloss or gloss medium gray enamel. Try to paint your "colors" such as OD, invasion stripes, etc, then mask those off and THEN spray the Alclad. I too get a semi-rough finish on the Alclad but buff it out using their buffing sheets followed up by a Kleenex which removes the buffing "dust" and helps smooth the paint out a little more. The #3200 buffing sheet works well but they all have a use from time to time. After the Alclad is dry and decals applied I overspray with Model Master Sealer for Metalizer. I also use low tack frisket paper and/or post-it notes for my masks with a occasional use of scotch magic tape. I hope this is of some use to you. :)

 

John

 

Thank you for the tips John, much appreciated! I had not heard of those buffing sheets, will DEFINITELY look into those. Good thought on the Metallizer Sealer as well, I had forgotten all about that stuff. Thanks for the help!

 

Troubles aside, it looks stellar!

 

Cheers Ron, thank you so much!

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