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Kinetic Hawk RAAF, FINISHED!!!!!!!!


ericg

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Guest Peterpools

Eric

Nice work on the instrument cowling. The details really pick it up a lot of notches.

Looking real good

Keep 'em coming

:popcorn: :popcorn:

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A quick update,

 

I am using enamel colours for this build just for something different so I thought I would get a bit of practice on the horizontal stabilizers.

 

For those interested, the colours are Model Master Light Ghost Grey (FS 36375) and Medium Gray (FS35237) which look fine.

 

DSC01337_edited-1_zpsc6b2cf88.jpg

 

Here is the undercarriage, I just cant help myself when it comes to putting some extra detail on parts. A few more lines to run on this but you get the idea!

 

DSC01342_edited-1_zpsf0098356.jpg

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Nice.................I have to admit that while for me acrylics do have their place, (like pits, wells bays tyres ect, ect) I am an enamel guy all the way. If you use the right enamels they self level well, shoot smooth, atomize well, and generally dont seem to crack, peel or fish eye nearly as much as acrylics do.
Enamels also seem to be way more bullet proof (with the exceptions of putting an oil wash over enamels).

 

Looks great so far Eric!

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Here are the instrument panels 99% finished.... Now, I don't use magnification when I work, as I like to make sure that the finished product looks good to the naked eye, so the fact that these pics are blown up will show a few flaws. Needless to say, they look far better `as is' and not blown up!

 

The Front panel. I used Gunze H65 Black green to paint the displays as I reckon that colour simulates dead screens very well (back when I used to fly glass this is what they look like). I was confronted with a small problem of making the many buttons under the HUD stand out, so I used an old trick of mine and used some of the very thin black decals that seperate the different schemes of Wingnut Wings kits to define each button.

 

DSC01383_edited-1_zpsa5482c1c.jpg

 

The Rear panel. I haven't yet put a coat of flat on the coaming, so you can see the difference the flat makes between the bottom 2 displays and the top one.

 

DSC01380_edited-1_zps85928f13.jpg

 

Maybe better after a few beers?

 

DSC01396_edited-1_zpsc259976c.jpg

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Guest Peterpools

Eric

Terrific progress on the Hawk. Both IP's look fantastic. Nice work on the horizontal stabilizers .. paint work looks smooth as silk. Of course, I'm a convert: acrylics all the way these days.

Keep 'em coming

:popcorn: :popcorn:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Back into it after a few days away from the bench.

 

One part of the kit I was never happy with was the join in the fuselage aft of the speedbrake. Somehow, the raised rivets have been incomplety moulded and there is a seam line through one of the lines of rivets. Remember this kit isnt't exactly Tamiya quality.

 

Here is the join as per the kit, without sanding or modification.

 

DSC01226_edited-2_zpsb9f791c0.jpg

 

I figured there had to be a solution so after a bit of research I came up with this awesome piece of aftermarket.

 

FB7443F6-9837-47B9-884A-2C304ED80B3E-130

 

Now, not having used these before, I was a little dubious of how they would work. I can honestly say that they are a dream come true for anyone that requires raised rivets. I have seen evidence of their use in a very recently released resin pre-war trainer, so they are certainly fit for purpose.

 

I decided to clean up a few panels and re-do most of the underside of the fuselage, and the tailcone. (I should really do the whole lot, but lifes too short!) The part that the airbrake sits in also has the two strakes moulded into it and it required alot of fairing into the fuselage, which also got rid of a few rivets.

 

C029A3FC-55EC-41A4-9C06-E2312EDCE2AB-130

 

I also cleaned up the flat plate above the exhaust. There were raised rivets in this area but they were very faintly moulded and not acceptable.

 

050A307A-68B9-4AA2-B9BA-EB2A6E1A7F8B-130

 

Cut a line from the sheet, measure and cut to size.

 

AA30F279-7030-45DC-9AA4-05C6EFFD2D17-130

 

a few minutes of fiddling around, and a decent coat of Microsol, and these rivets are done. VERY HAPPY with the result. The carrier film is very thin and almost blends with the plastic. It should only just be discernable under a coat of paint and primer.

 

8D65CB6B-95D6-4299-BA34-6C6A95938469-130

 

I accidently got a small line of rivets wet when applying others, so I riveted around the light fitting to see how they would handle curves....very well! Microsol makes this stuff come alive.

 

9848D732-0C20-44C6-BB12-71AFFF8325C2-130

 

Next up was the line of rivets around the end of the tailcone. The decals lay down so well and are very easy to work with. SO glad I went down this path!

 

CDCE3993-1F77-43F5-928F-0B7F642C5C3F-130

 

5544535A-711D-4DEC-92BA-171109A858D1-130

 

 

 

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Guest Peterpools

Eric

WOW, do those rivets look great. Nice work on improving the with the use of Archer rivets.

Keep 'em coming

:popcorn: :popcorn:

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Guest Peterpools

Eric

Looking simply stellar... The Archer Rivets are on must buy and try list, after seeing how realistic they look in your hands.

Keep 'em coming

:popcorn: :popcorn:

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