Revell 1/144 767-300

[LSP_Kevin]

It looks to me like two different sets, one that covers the door uppers, and one that does not.

 

Actually, you're right K2! And each set is printed with a different aircraft serial. I think I'll still try filling the windows though, as I don't fancy risking an attempt at cutting this sheet up. It's just a shame Hawkeye doesn't post photos of the actual sheets themselves on its website, rather than just the instruction/profile sheet. I haven't even opened the bag yet to check out the instructions, so I guess I should do that next!

 

Kev

[LSP_Kevin]

Well, I've just checked the window layout on the decals and compared it to the hole in the kit's fuselage...and neither option matches. These decals were really designed for a model that has its cabin windows filled in. There can be a great deal of variation in window configuration for the same aircraft across different carriers, and decals are the best way to be accurate about that. So for those guys wondering why we fill the windows in...this is why!

 

So, the upshot for me is that I can't really use these decals on this build. They won't go to waste as I'll use them on the second one I have in the stash (with the windows filled before hand!), but I'm back to having no livery for this one.

 

If both Ian at Ad Astra and Alek at Maketar weren't indisposed at the moment, I'd see about getting some kanga masks cut for the original Qantas livery. Can anybody recommend to me someone who could do that? I reckon I could salvage that one if I could just deal with the tail kangaroos.

 

Kev

[LSP_K2]

If I had some extra Ansett logos, I'd just send them to you. As to masks, I have no idea. On my ficticious Ozark L-1011, I usd window decals, as I've always preferred them to the open holes in the kits.

[LSP_Kevin]

Thanks for chiming in guys. As it happens I had an email exchange with Clayton Fiander, the proprietor of Hawkeye Models Australia, and he recommends cutting the sheet up to suit the build. They're printed on one continuous decal film, so you have to carefully cut out each element anyway. I'd end up with an inaccurate window layout, but I've decided that no longer matters. Who's gonna know anyway?

 

So, I'm back on plan B, which is to use the Ansett sheet, but not the cabin windows. I'm just waiting on a reply from Clayton about whether I need to coat the decals with decal film first. The instruction sheet is a little vague on this issue.

 

Kev

[LSP_Kevin]

I'm just waiting on a reply from Clayton about whether I need to coat the decals with decal film first.

 

Clayton confirms that liquid decal film is not required. The decals are laser printed apparently, and the only watch-out is having them stretch and break through injudicious handling. But that applies to just about any decal really.

 

Kev

[LSP_K2]

Glad to hear you're back on track Kev. Regarding Coroguard, wouldn't paint be just as good (or better), than the decals?

[LSP_Kevin]

Glad to hear you're back on track Kev. Regarding Coroguard, wouldn't paint be just as good (or better), than the decals?

 

Probably, but it's a difficult colour to capture, since it changes dramatically depending on the lighting conditions. The most often recommended colour is some variation of 'steel', which I don't currently have. I've actually used Tamiya's AS-12 before to good effect too, but I've already used that here on the leading edges. The real thing is commonly described as being a silvery-grey. But the main advantage with decals is not having to do all that masking!

 

Anyway, I've never actually used decals for Corogard before, so we'll see how they look when they're done!

 

Kev

[LSP_K2]

If they fit properly, they should look fine I'd think. Looking forward to more.

[LSP_K2]

Question Kev; do you gloss coat your airliners after decals, and if so, using what as a gloss coat?

[LSP_Kevin]

Question Kev; do you gloss coat your airliners after decals, and if so, using what as a gloss coat?

 

Good question mate! I haven't really built enough airliners to have formed a consistent practise yet. I certainly do gloss coat them, as in my opinion you should seal decals whenever possible. And many aftermarket decals for airliners are not screen printed, so they could well be more fragile than normal.

 

The problem I'm trying to solve is that, for the most part, I find airliner models too glossy. The decal windows and simplified details already lend them a toy-like aspect, and making them gleam like a brand-new kitchen appliance only adds to that in my opinion. One of the reasons I chose to paint this model with Mr White Surfacer (a primer, effectively), is that it goes on super-smooth, but isn't overly glossy. It should be smooth enough for decalling without needing a gloss coat prior, and I'm hoping that with a light gloss or satin coat over the top, the result will be less out-of-scale bling than usual. We'll find out in the next day or so!

 

To answer the last part of your question, I've been experiment lately with Future again, after swearing off it. So many people swear by it, but I've always felt it was overrated. I still do, but have learned how to handle it a bit better, and produce better results. For airliner models though, I prefer Tamiya's X-22 Clear Gloss acrylic. I guess I need to start experimenting with some of the available clear satin finishes. The only one I have in the paint stash is the Humbrol one (Satin Cote).

 

Apologies for the long-winded answer to a simple question!

 

Kev

[LSP_K2]

I read several question/answer comments on airlinercafe, and the general concensus seems to be not to use Future, unless over a primed, then gloss coated surface, so it looks like you're on the right track. (I have an interest in this as I may resume work on my big L-1011 soon, and really want to get it right.)

[LSP_Kevin]

Some progress with the decals, with the usual steps forward and step back. Here's how it's looking now:

 

 

The tail planes are just fitted in place for the photos.

 

Both the Hawkeye and FCM corrogard decals went down a treat. The FCM decals, however, took an instant dislike to Microsol, wrinkling up badly and refusing to settle back down, even several hours later:

 

 

 

I've had this sort of thing happen before, and the decals are usually a write-off. The ironic thing is that, just after I finished applying them, it occurred to me that Ansett 767s might not even have corrogard panels! A subsequent Google image search suggests they do, but I'm not quite sure how to proceed now. The way I see it, I've got 3 choices:

 

• try to deal with the wrinkles with more Microsol, a sharp blade and some voodoo;
• strip the corrogard decals off and pretend this aircraft didn't use 'em;
• strip the corrogard decals off and replace them with the second set in the pack.

 

The second option is tempting, but relies on getting the old decals off cleanly without damaging any paintwork, and may not be accurate for this aircraft anyway. The last option also relies on a clean removal, but also wastes my second (and last) set of 767 corrogard. There's also the fact the the corrogard panels are not the best match for the kit's wings, and appear to me to be too dark. The first option is, from past experience, impossible.

 

Why does even an ostensibly simple build like this one have to bend me over like this?

 

 

Kev

[Guest Peterpools]

Kev

Incredible bad luck for sure and can't bel;ieve how the Big Boeing is fighting you all the way. . For my two cents, I would strip off the decals, put the Tamiya masking tape into action and paint the panels. Might just be the safest way to go.

[LSP_Kevin]

On 1/19/2013 at 6:03 PM, Peterpools said:

Kev

Incredible bad luck for sure and can't bel;ieve how the Big Boeing is fighting you all the way. . For my two cents, I would strip off the decals, put the Tamiya masking tape into action and paint the panels. Might just be the safest way to go.

 

Thanks for checking in Peter. I'm not keen to mask and paint at this late stage. Partly it's due to already having so many decals on the model, and the risk more masking and spraying would pose to them. Some of the shapes on the bottom of the wing are pretty tricky too. Also, I don't have anything like a suitable colour in my paint stash at the moment. Plus, I figure I bought the damned decals, so I may as well use them!

 

I've sent an email to Clayton at Hawkeye, asking if he thinks this particular aircraft/livery had Corrogard. The only shots of the wings I can find on the web are from below, and they certainly show Corrogard. This particular airframe went through at least two repaints - one when it became a Sydney Olympics carrier, and then back again to the livery I'm trying to model. All the photos showing Corrogard are from pre-2000 (before the Olympics); it's possible that after the repaint back to fleet colours the Corrogard was painted over. So I'm hoping I can do the post-Olympics scheme legitimately without Corrogard!

 

Either way, the crinkled ones had to come, so come off they did:

 

 

They peeled off almost in one go, having established almost no bond to the model! Came off clean as a whistle; no residue, no paint damage. At least that's a positive!

 

Kev

[LSP_Kevin]

Hmm, the photo in the link below, which is the only one of this aircraft that I can find post-2000, seems to show Corrogard under the port wing, between engine and wing root:

 

http://www.airliners.net/photo/Ansett-Australia-Airlines/Boeing-767-324-ER/0179215/L/

 

Interestingly, it shows it being pretty close to the colour of the FC decals too.

 

Kev