Photography questions

[Nick32]

Hi, can anyone give me some useful hints on how best to photograph models?

I'm not happy with my methods at all, it usually results in the camera focusing on one spot and the rest of it is a blurry mess.

 

I am using a Nikon D3100 with the kit 18-55mm lens.

Thanks,

Nick

[Radders]

Hi Nick,

 

Just a quick answer from me as I'm packing up at work.

 

Ideally, you need a tripod. Set the camera to A (I'm not a Nikon man, but I think A is the same as Canon's Av.) A being Aperture setting. If you set the numbers to f/22 (the higher the better) this will slow your shutter speed down (this is where a tripod is needed).

 

In short, the higher the number, the smaller the Aperture = more in focus. If you set it at f/3.5 (or there abouts) your setting the lens at a larger Aperture = less in focus, you also get a fast shutter doing this.

 

be warned though, if your camera sensor is dirty, the smaller the Aperture ( ie: f/22 etc) will pick up dirt on the image, so don't be alarmed if you looked at your photo and have a black dot, small hair line on the image.

 

If you don't have a tripod, up the ISO to around ISO500/ISO600 and set the A between f/10 or f/16, this will set the shutter speed slightly slower, but decent enough to be hand held. Although, photos won't be as good. It all depends on your lighting, and where your taking the photo.

 

I'm going offline now, so will check back tomorrow. Hopefully someone has explained it better.

 

Best of luck!

Edited December 4, 2012 by Radders

[dashotgun]

up to a point a smaller aperture is better and will give you more depth of field however to small like f/22 will decrease sharpness due to diffraction. Get or build a light tent and invest in some white balanced floods which will decrease your need for smaller apertures. Shoot in RAW or the nikon equivalent and use photoshop to process there is a free alternative called GIMP I believe there is a three stop correction built into raw. you can balance the light and darks better in post processing. Expose to the right ie expose for the lights there is detail in the dark but if the light is not properly exposed it is impossible to get it back in post

[Guest Peterpools]

Nick

No sweat Buddy, have you taking photos like a pro. For starters You've a Nikon Man... Excellent start. Easiest way to work is if don't have flood lighting of some sort is to shoot outside, with the sun at your back but don't cast any shadows on the model. Your 18-55 will work just fine. Camera settings:

Set the program mode to A ... aperture priority. You set the aperture and the camera will set the shutter speed.

Set your metering to Matrix mode.

Lets assume you have a tripod, which is really a must for eliminating camera shake and keeps things sharp

If your don't buy an inexpensive bean bag and rest it a a chair to keep the camera steady.

Now set your camera ISO at the lowest setting: 100 or 200... this is for the best resolution and again sharpness.

Make sure the auto focus is on AF/M.

Set you White balance (WB) to daylight/sun. If it is cloudy, set it to cloudy. Don't use auto.

Now with the command dial, set the F stop to the highest number you can: F16, F22. This will give you the greatest depth of field for the maximum range of sharpness

Of course, use a piece of colored oaktag for the background but stay away from white, it will fake out the meter and the model will be under exposed.

Shoot in JPEG formate.

Now focus in the MIDDLE of your subject.

If you have inexpensive floods from let say Home Depot, you can shoot indoors. Just change the white balance to incondecsent

Right now, we're all set to take some shots. Try to fill the frame but keep things sharp, The camera and lens combination will only let you get so close before it won't focus anymore.

The second half of the equation is post production. Do you use Nikon View NX2? If so, you can adjust your image there make adjustments and crop out some of the background if necessary.

Small F stos will need long shutter speed but will yield the best results.

Fire me off a PM if you need help with View NX2 for post production (adjusting your photos). You can also do a lot of work to them in Photobucket as well.

Shoot me an PM is you need any more help or have questions. believe me, with a Nikon D3100 and your lens, there shouldn't be problems getting razor sharp images.

Peter

[dashotgun]

here is an article on diffraction and small aperture size f 16 is the lowest you should use on a aps c coamera http://www.bobatkins.com/photography/technical/diffraction.html

[Guest Peterpools]

Just read the article on diffraction and while what is said is true, isn't always the case. F22 or F32 is used for the maximum value of depth of field when shooting in macro or using a standard lens and trying to get as close to the subject as possible with sharpness from from to rear, is the prime importance. As long as the image is sharp for the subject we need, the balance can be corrected in post production quit easily. Even using standing processing programs or just the tools in Photobucket, I doubt you will be able to see the difference when viewing photos on the forum, as the resolution just isn't there. Everything in photography is a tradeoff, including sensor size and pixels.

For me, starting with the sharpest image as possible is the most important value and I can always adjust the balance, if needed. Lenses from the good old days, just don't hold a candle to what we have today and whether they are shot full open or closed, the sharpness for the given focal length is amazing.

I think the point is, in how to gain the maximum depth of filed, is always achieved with the smalls aperture. I shoot all my model photography with either of two lenses at:

Nikon F2.8 105MM @ F32

Nikon F1.4G 50MM @ F16

If we're then cropping small portions of the image and enlarging it, absolutely the sharpness and resolution will decay very quickly.

Peter

[Nick32]

Thanks guys, as usual you have all come up with the goods!!

 

I havent had a chance yet to put it all into practise, but it all makes sense so i should be good to go, with a bit of practise.

Thanks again,

Nick

[Guest Peterpools]

Nick

If I can be of any help, always available

Peter

[dodgem37]

Tape a piece of white copy paper to the front of your flood lamp. It will diffuse the light and create soft shadows.

 

Sincerely,

Mark