ZM A-1J Skyraider review

[Adam]

This is my take on the load out for "Sandy's" (CSAR).

 

Only the USN as I understand it ever used 2 x 300 Gal tanks under the wings and used a special "ferry" oil tank with this as well (maybe for the "Sandblower" nuke attack missions?). Why? Because the standard oil tank for the A-1 had a capacity of 38.5 US Gals. Oil consumption could be up to 5 Gals per hour and still be in spec. Any more than 8 hours flying would run the engine dry. So in the case of the "Sandy" task, why carry more fuel than you can possibly use? Weapons on hardpoints were more important in this case. Of course drop tanks can be partially filled, but tell that to the guy filling the tank - too open for mistakes to happen. Unless you are watching the guy filling the tank, he'll probably just fill it.

 

Putting one 300 Gal tank on one wing would cause a major loading imbalance issue as well. I've only ever seen the 150 Gal tank used in a "Sandy" loading. Of course I'm no absolute expert on the subject - this is just all from my research on line and in the Mutza book. Do your research until you are happy with the result.

 

I'd very much like to see a photo showing a typical Sandy load out using 2 x 300's (or even one for that matter). If anyone has photos showing this, I'd love to see them. It just doesn't make sense to me. I certainly do acknowledge that it's a possibility not being there at the time and not seeing 100%

 

It's great that the ZM kit does in fact have the Yankee seat option. I just read from that review that it wasn't included. I would still be annoyed having to source a 150 Gal tank and scratch build the WP 100lb bombs as well though (as I did for the Tamiya kit).

 

If I hadn't built the Tamiya kit, I would 100% be buying the ZM kit. It's only because my build list is 10+ years long that I am passing on buying the ZM kit (I may still weaken though!).

 

Life being what it is, after all my research and comments above, someone will produce photos and evidence that the 2 x 300 Gal load out was often used. If so, I'll gladly accept this of course.

[Michael931080]

See HERE

 

Brian,

 

I can see your point in one regard but yet looking at the finished product the means don't really justify the end. I guess Zoukei-Maru looks at doing this type of production from a different point of view from which we are not privy too.

 

When you take the contents of any company's model and prep it right you can produce either a lemon or jewel. We all see that everyday.

 

I think if it works for them and if that is the way they like it so be it.

 

Thanks,

[Darren Howie]

Hi Adam

Most of the A-1pics from Vietnam to at least me have a 300 on the centerline.

Losing two racks with 150 Gal tanks would surely be the worst case when only one tank using one rack can do the same job..

Plenty of Spad pics around with 300's on the centerline can post numerous links if you need.

Just because the150 isn't provided as a layout option in my eyes in no way reduces the accuracy of the kit given how widely used to 300 was.

In fact I'd rather have the 300 hung under the centerline covered in oil which is a trademark of USAF Spads..

Cheers

[Adam]

No need to post. My point was that I've never seen a photo of the 300's under the wings. I've only ever seen photos of USAF Spad's with the 300 Gal centreline tank and with a 150 Gal on the right wing for CSAR use "Sandy" - with the SUU minigun on the left wing. I'm not at all questioning the accuracy of the kit - I'm sure it's amazing and I'm in a sweat as to whether I will weaken and buy it. I'm doing my best to resist, but weakening with every post!

 

Here's my 1/48 Spad with heaps of oil on the 300.

 

I originally had a 300 under the right wing, realised my error and scratch built a 150 Gal tank.

 

 

[Darren Howie]

Beautiful Spad Adam!

Love your weathering its spot on.

Great result.

Do you know if Tamiya put in the different wing tips on the J boxing with the fairings for the landing lights?

Once again great build!

 

Ps if that's what you did with the Tamiya kit love to see what you would do with the big boy!

Edited November 4, 2012 by Darren Howie

[Adam]

That's a real good question about the wing tip difference and I don't know. That's no something I picked up on. Is there much of a difference? I've had a quick flick through my Mutza book and haven't picked up on much. Do you have any good photos to post that show the difference?

Thanks for your comments. It's no helping my resistance to buy the ZM kit though.

[Adam]

Beautiful Spad Adam!

Love your weathering its spot on.

Great result.

Do you know if Tamiya put in the different wing tips on the J boxing with the fairings for the landing lights?

Once again great build!

 

Ps if that's what you did with the Tamiya kit love to see what you would do with the big boy!

 

Hey Darren

 

Are the "H" wing tip lights flaired and the "J" protrude? The wing tip lights on my "J" protrude from the wing tip. Is this how you think this should be? If so, Tamiya have it right. Out of interest, I totally scratch built the Yankee system in my SPAD as the Tamiya kit does not include this option at all - just the original USN seat.

[Out2gtcha]

Brian,

 

I can see your point in one regard but yet looking at the finished product the means don't really justify the end. I guess Zoukei-Maru looks at doing this type of production from a different point of view from which we are not privy too.

 

When you take the contents of any company's model and prep it right you can produce either a lemon or jewel. We all see that everyday.

 

I think if it works for them and if that is the way they like it so be it.

 

Thanks,

 

My point had really nothing to do with the finished product nor the prep of the model.............it was that no matter what kind of prep you did, it is/was always going to be more work than other plastic because the way it sanded, and it inherently is less desirable (IMHO anyway) because it physically is softer, and this makes the details less crisp.

[Darren Howie]

Hi Adam

The landing lights have a reverse teardrop fairing but its not very deep and no biggie.

You could use some plasticard in 32nd or 48th and its not very thick.

I didn't know about e difference either till I got the ZM Spad J so I guess getting its at least taught me one more thing I didn't know!

What did you use or your oil streaking something like burnt umber oil paint??

[Adam]

Hi Adam

The landing lights have a reverse teardrop fairing but its not very deep and no biggie.

You could use some plasticard in 32nd or 48th and its not very thick.

I didn't know about e difference either till I got the ZM Spad J so I guess getting its at least taught me one more thing I didn't know!

What did you use or your oil streaking something like burnt umber oil paint??

 

Interesting about the tip lights. You are close on the oil technique. I used raw umber thinned with turps. It's so easy - just keep adding and playing around with the mixture - wipe away what you don't want with a damp tippex (cotton bud). This was the most fun during the build and I used a photo of George Marrett's aeroplane as the reference. I've read that these aeroplanes haemorrhaged so much oil that sometimes ground crews often slipped off them! That's why I went to town with the oil. I also used a white oil on top to show fading and dust.

[Guest]

One of the points that Brian is talking about( correct me if wrong Brian) with the silver plastic is that the kits I've done in the past, (Hasa F-86) is that after sanding, for what ever reason, when you thing you have saved the detail, then primer, you find out it really is gone. Silver plastic will leave a "ghost " if you will, of detail. It appears the detail is still there but is not. I found out with the F-86 after sanding the body and getting seams and whatnot cleaned up, it still looked like I was careful enough to save the panel lines and such. But after I applied a silver coat on it I found out that it was all gone. Smooth as a baby's butt and no detail. Does that make sense ??......Harv

[phasephantomphixer]

Hi Adam

The landing lights have a reverse teardrop fairing but its not very deep and no biggie.

You could use some plasticard in 32nd or 48th and its not very thick.

I didn't know about e difference either till I got the ZM Spad J so I guess getting its at least taught me one more thing I didn't know!

What did you use or your oil streaking something like burnt umber oil paint??

I dug down deep & pulled both 1/48 Tamiya kits. Besides decals, they're exactly the same plastic except the J has two more sprues of weapons (Iron bombs, rocket pods).

[Darren Howie]

Thanks I've got one buried somewhere as we'll.

Seems ZM are the first to pick up on this subtle difference.

They do the homework it appears!