ChuckT Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 I want to scratch build an aircraft fuselage shape to then use as a male pattern to vacuform over. I am going to glue down a set profile plans to the material I end up using and then cut the profiles out to then put together with some stringers to get my rough fuselage shape. Forgive my ignorance, but from a cost of materials and strength point of view, what material would be better suited for this task, thin balsa wood OR bass wood OR styrene? What do you guys think? Thanks in advance, Chuck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ron Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 Bass wood or any harder wood but not balsa. Also, I am no expert but from your description building a bulk head and stringer assy is not a great vac form. It should likely be a solid carved and shaped block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChuckT Posted October 25, 2012 Author Share Posted October 25, 2012 Thanks for the input. I am going to make the basic form with bulk heads and stringers, then cover the exterior with masking tape. From there I pour resin from the inside to fill the voids between the bulk heads/stringers to the tape shell. Finally I remove the tape and sand and fill the shell until I am happy with the over all outline. Once I'm ahppy with the shape, I will use it for my vacform master. Does this kind of make sense? Lot of work I know but I want to give it a try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 That sounds like doing things the hard way Chuck! I reckon carving a solid form out of basswood or similar would be simpler, and certainly a lot cheaper, and quite probably quicker too. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChuckT Posted October 25, 2012 Author Share Posted October 25, 2012 Ha ha, yah I hear you! For some reason for me trying to carve a shape is WAY harder. I guess I'm just not talented in that area. I didnt say it was the smartest way to do it, but I want to give it a try anyway. Thanks for the feedback though, Chuck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Fleischmann Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 Hey Chuck- Here's how I made mine- http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=28715&hl= Cheers Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek B Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 Hi Chuck, Pete's link to his build is very instructional and a great technique. It all depends upon what you are trying to make? There are several types of material and methods that can be employed as a means to your ends? For the purpose of vacforming (or even 'crash', drape' or 'plunge' moulding by hand) a male plastic 'shell', a basic shaped piece of balsa wood will suffice - vacform is only really necessary if you are intending to form anything that has multiple curvature of a recessed nature. If you could tell us what you are intending to scratch build, and which parts you are looking at for potential vacforming, we could probably advise you better? (there are many experienced members on this website who have as many techniques as years of experience using them, so someone should be able to advise you of a technique that will suit your style of building?). HTH Derek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radial Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 I have built several fuse molds for vac projects. The plan you've laid out is rife with problems. I know because it did it albeit without filling the fuse with resin. It was a complete failure. It would help to know what a/c your doing. First pic shows stick built fuse that failed under vac pressure. Second pic shows shaped balsa fuse laminated with.010 rod and sheet plastic to represent stringers and metal panels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 I have built several fuse molds for vac projects. The plan you've laid out is rife with problems. I know because it did it albeit without filling the fuse with resin. It was a complete failure. It would help to know what a/c your doing. First pic shows stick built fuse that failed under vac pressure. Second pic shows shaped balsa fuse laminated with.010 rod and sheet plastic to represent stringers and metal panels. That must have been your green YMF5 Radial? MAN, that thing is SUPER sweet looking.............one of the best civi models Ive ever seen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee White Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 Carved, SOLID Balsa molds are quite acceptable for vacuum forming. radial 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChuckT Posted October 25, 2012 Author Share Posted October 25, 2012 Thanks everyone for the input. I hope to do a Luft. 46 subject. The Blohm and Voss BV p. 215 night fighter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRutman Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 There is a product called artificial wood that is even better than balsa or bass wood as it cuts and sands like wood but has no grain so you can work it in all directions. Fred Yarema,a poster on this site gave me some and it's great stuff. J radial 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChuckT Posted October 25, 2012 Author Share Posted October 25, 2012 Thanks again to everyone for all the knowledge. I think I am going to try using the method Pete used in the link above. That looks like it might work best for someone who finds carving challenging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndersN Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 (edited) I made my 1/48 Saab 21 kinda same way... DO NOT fill with putty, fill with balsa etc, believe me I know Good luck with the Bv P215! 1/32? Cheers Edited October 25, 2012 by AndersN Lee White, radial and Derek B 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vjhl2000 Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 modelling board ( polyurethane ) far better than wood, available in different densities. Tradenames like renshape, necuron, sikablock etc http://www.modulor.de/shop/oxid.php/sid/d52edaa27ffaebe48cc563bc99e93489/cl/alist/cnid/TAI/tpl/-/lang/1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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