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WnW Pfalz D.IIIa Finished.


ericg

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Hi again,

 

A very kind Aussie Modeller helped me out and express posted me his spare Lozenge decal from his own Pfalz, adn I was able to complete the decalling.

 

IMAG1111.jpg

 

I have started the weathering process, using a dark grey paint to add a bit of depth to the top wing. I am hoping that a wash of dark brown around prominent areas will bring this all together.

 

IMAG1109.jpg

 

Looks alot better on the aeroplane.

 

IMAG1113.jpg

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Very very nice looking Pfalz

 

I am in the final rigging stage of a LVG which also have the lozenge decals. I had some problems with it that sounds like your problems. In the end it turned out that it was because I didnt bother painting the wing before decaling (nothing would be seen after all) but that is a bad idea. The decal needs something it can grip to lay down nicely. After painting before decaling (yes, new set from WNW) I used Daco decal soultions weak version and it turned out nice.

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I've got those Master Barrel guns for my Roden DR1 and they do look great both in the flesh and on your model.

 

Let me know how you paint the inside of the cooling jackets mate. I've thought of dipping them in really thin paint. Indian Ink was suggested at a club meet earlier in the year.

 

Maybe even burnish them to get that blackish look without melting or distorting them.

Edited by Whitey
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Let me know how you paint the inside of the cooling jackets mate. I've thought of dipping them in really thin paint. Indian Ink was suggested at a club meet earlier in the year.

 

Master Model have themselves just come out with a blackening agent that is supposed to do the job. I can't find it on their site, but I did spot it on their Facebook page.

 

Kev

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rubbing them with blackening agent?, dipping in thin paint? india ink?......... How about just bloody paint them?

 

Alclad Jet exhaust, straight from the bottle, 18PSI. and yes, even the inside of the jackets copped some paint through the slots. I will apply a black wash and a drybrush to bring out the details. Just wanted to post this to prove that great success can be had by not overcomplicating things.

 

IMAG1146.jpg

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Very nice work Eric!

 

rubbing them with blackening agent?, dipping in thin paint? india ink?......... How about just bloody paint them?

 

Alclad Jet exhaust, straight from the bottle, 18PSI. and yes, even the inside of the jackets copped some paint through the slots. I will apply a black wash and a drybrush to bring out the details. Just wanted to post this to prove that great success can be had by not overcomplicating things.

 

IMAG1146.jpg

 

 

As for painting VS staining VS ink (not really ever heard that before myself) I was thinking the same type thing, when I was told about all the crazy stuff to do with brass PE.

 

However, what I found did make sense re: blackening agents..................

 

I found that painting them did work, but for the SUPER fine holes/slots in cooling jackets, say the more modern .50 cals, the holes in the jacket were actually small enough that even the super thin metalizer paint I used was making them look just ever so slightly smaller, since the paint was taking up just we bit of thickness of each hole.

 

I found this instead:

 

finishing-09.jpg

 

 

For things like the pictured mini lengths of chain, cooling jackets on 32nd scale guns, and for things like the exhausts on my SU I found it invaluable.

Heres the exhaust cone right out of the blacken it:

 

LSP_SU30_WIP_182.jpg

 

Here is after a bit of polishing / sanding with some finish paper to wear and weather it a bit. Very easy to do this with the guns too as the longer you leave it it the darker it goes -

 

LSP_SU30_WIP_180.jpg

 

I found this stuff does in fact work quite superior VS paint. The reason I say that is:

 

1 - prep time is nil. No mixing no fussing and NO time to complete. Just pour some in a small cup or jar, dip said brass in it

2 - "Dry" time is 0. All it takes is a couple of seconds in the solution and you have your gunmetal blue/black

3 - Since the solution is a chemical coloration, there is 0 room taken up with the paints thickness, thus the holes and small openings stay exactly the same diameter as when they were produced.

4 - No need to worry about what to do with the insides of the jackets, or inside of the jacket on the barrel itself, since the chemical is super thin, and floods all areas of the barrel including the insides when dipped.

 

 

Quite brilliant stuff really, and definitely worth at least some experimentation IMHO.

Edited by Out2gtcha
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Eric, I've used the Master barrels on a few of my builds and love 'em! Yours look amazing, and I'm still bugging out over the overall build. That is a beautiful paint scheme.

 

Brian, great info on the Blacken-It. Just may have to pick up some and have a go.

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Guest Peterpools

Eric

Nice going on the MG's, as they look super. Perfect way to finish them with Alclads that are always on my bench

Peter :popcorn: :popcorn:

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