krow113 Posted December 28, 2012 Share Posted December 28, 2012 Here are the three different types of turnbuckle, seperated from their `sprue' If one looks at the middle turnbuckle here , it has a spade end to accept p/e flat rigging. I would urge research into the p/e flat rigging prior to trying to get it to work. Jus' sayin'... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzdavidh Posted December 28, 2012 Share Posted December 28, 2012 I just got my order of the GasPatch turnbuckles a few days ago and on initial inspection the look really good if not a little rough in texture. I was planning on spraying them with a Tamiya's grey primer and then a dark brass colour mix. Cheers, Wolf Hi Wolf, do you think the turnbuckles would survive being cleaned up with the wire brush fitting in a dremel. works well for white metal gear? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzdavidh Posted December 28, 2012 Share Posted December 28, 2012 If one looks at the middle turnbuckle here , it has a spade end to accept p/e flat rigging. I would urge research into the p/e flat rigging prior to trying to get it to work. Jus' sayin'... This is where, for the price of the turnbuckles, I think Gas Patch could really help out. Some good guidance materials and advice about which aircraft to use the turnbuckles on would be great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericg Posted December 28, 2012 Author Share Posted December 28, 2012 Dave, they look great when viewing the model with the naked eye. I dont think there is any need to clean them up with a dremel. You will be there for ages, the carpet monster will consume most of them and you would be over complicating a very simple process. In answer to your question, you will use all of the three different types over the different models that wnw produce, so having all three makes sense. For the less financial amongst us, type a is the one I would get most of. It is the one on the left of the three that I have posed the knife blade. I have used that one in the pfalz build so far and it will be the one that I use in 90% of the remainder of the build. The one with the spade end is designed to be inserted into a hole in the airframe as if it is attached to the wooden structure. The last one is one you would use if there was a need to join two pieces of rigging together. Eric. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted December 28, 2012 Share Posted December 28, 2012 I bet a quick pass with some Tamiya fine white primer would get them looking as smooth as anything to the naked eye Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzdavidh Posted December 29, 2012 Share Posted December 29, 2012 If the one with the spade end is designed to be inserted into the fuselage rather than recieve an RFC flat flying wire, does that mean none are suited to use with RB etch flying wires (I had hoped this was the purpose of the one with the spade end)? I was thinking RB etch would be the way to go with my SE5 as I prefer their appearance to elastic for RFC wires. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krow113 Posted December 29, 2012 Share Posted December 29, 2012 (edited) If the one with the spade end is designed to be inserted into the fuselage rather than recieve an RFC flat flying wire, does that mean none are suited to use with RB etch flying wires (I had hoped this was the purpose of the one with the spade end)? I was thinking RB etch would be the way to go with my SE5 as I prefer their appearance to elastic for RFC wires. . The turnbuckle could be cut in half and one end drilled into the wing. The transition from flat to round would be represented then. Please check my attempts to use the RB flat rigging on this site. RB sells terminals for the p/e flat rigging as well. http://forum.largesc...showtopic=41316 Good luck with it , it defeated me in the wing bays, still poed I failed on it. Edited December 29, 2012 by krow113 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericg Posted December 29, 2012 Author Share Posted December 29, 2012 Here is the way that I am rigging the Pfalz. I have a full set of Bobs Buckles in my parts store and fully intended to use them in this build. I usually dont bother looking up other peoples techniques of doing things as i like to come up with my own way. This time was no different, so here goes! I pre-installed the small copper eyelets (Bobs Buckles) in all of the required places in the upper wing whilst it was off the aircraft. I then glued the top wing on and let it set. Please note my brand new, super expensive jig, which is doing a great job with both the Hunter and the Pfalz. Here are the fine brass tubes from the Bobs buckles range, threaded onto some fine wire and pre-coloured with a black permanent marker. I found this way it was easier to colour them. Thread the EZ-line through the eyelet leaving equal lengths either side of the eyelet. The longer, the better as it means you can tie the knots well away from the model and `slide' them up to the eyelet. Thread both ends of the EZline through the tube A small drop of superglue to set the knot and then slide the brass tube up to the eyelet. Set the Gaspatch turnbuckle at the correct angle into the bottom wing and tie one of the two lengths of EZline onto the turnbuckle with one or two knots. Set the knot with superglue. this part is where having the two lengths either side of the eyelet may come in handy. If you mess up the first wire, then there is a spare one ready to go. It is possible to cut too close to the knot and you will snap the wire, or it will come loose from the turnbuckle. With the spare length of EZline, stretch it and cut it close to the tube. The stretchiness of the EZline will retract the cut end back into the brass tube, leaving a very neat termination of the wire. The finished product Whitey and Out2gtcha 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericg Posted December 29, 2012 Author Share Posted December 29, 2012 Some other stuff that didnt make the maximum of 10 pics allowable in one post. I thought I would prime the buckles to see if it smoothed them out a little, which it did. I used Gunze Mr Metal Primer, shot straight through the airbrush. Here is the reason why I use EZline. I guess there could be a situation where the quoted %700 stretch factor could be tested (such as during transport) So I tested it a bit, just for fun. Getting there Whitey 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncarina Posted December 29, 2012 Share Posted December 29, 2012 Eric, Thanks very much for sharing your technique. Right now I'm rigging my S.E.5a with fine wire, but cutting the right lengths for some of the short segments has been tedious at best. You've definitely got me thinking about using your technique on my next build! Cheers, Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ron Posted December 29, 2012 Share Posted December 29, 2012 Very interesting work, knowing how finicky working with EZ line can be I am really at awe with how you manage to work with those little eyelets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Matt Posted December 29, 2012 Share Posted December 29, 2012 Wow. Great work Eric. Thanks for the tip on the Riot Art pencil for the prop. I've gotta jump in the deep end with that woodgrain one of these days. I like the spattering effect by flicking the brush. I'm sure I've airbrushed that at times. I can't imagine a plane operating from a grass strip in winter not getting grubby underneath. I have the same kit especially cause I loved that Comet scheme. Better be in my best decalling form. Thanks again for taking the time to put in all the tips...silver/grey, rigging etc. The weight limit on the plane reminds of those old Suzuki Sierra's...max load 250kg Thanks again...a pleasure reading the thread. Matty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericg Posted December 30, 2012 Author Share Posted December 30, 2012 I have just finished the port wing. All up I found the process quite easy, and used all three types of the Gaspatch turnbuckles and Bobs buckles, which really finish off the effect. I took just over 2 hours to do one wing. Whitey 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ron Posted December 30, 2012 Share Posted December 30, 2012 Really looks great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ladder4boy Posted December 30, 2012 Share Posted December 30, 2012 Looking REALLY good Eric.. convinced me to buy a couple of sets myself! and a Pfalz to put them on.. Awesome work! Jerry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now