WnW Pfalz D.IIIa Finished.

[ericg]

I have done a bit of research on how to paint the prop and tried a few different things but decided that I really wanted to get it right the first time as the last thing I want is to have a cabinet full of Wingnut wings builds and have one with a **** prop.

 

Anyway, I saw a thread somewhere about using pencils which I thought was a good idea so here is how I did mine.

 

I went here: http://www.woodenpropeller.com/Heine.html and printed out the pics of the prop for reference.

 

Here you can see the brand of pastel pencil that I used, plus the prop which I painted with Tamiya XF-something, cut with Mr Thinner. it is important not to have to glossy a sheen with the paint so that the pencil has something to grab. For those in Australia, these pencils are available in a pack of four from Riot Art. The good thing about using a pencil is that it is able to be erased very easily and touched up as needed.

 

 

I carefully `sketched' the woodgrain pattern onto one blade intially

 

 

Transfered it across to the other side with my calipers to maintain a relativley symetrical pattern

 

 

 

Here it is, with a flat clear coat. I did this mainly to seal the pastel as it is fairly fragile, plus it will give me a good base upon which to fix the small parts where some of the base paint broke through to the plastic which was unable to be fixed before hand. I will also go over those areas that I feel were a little light compared to the rest of it. The next step will be to apply the oil paint and sponge it for the woodgrain pattern, this will also significanlty darke the entire prop.

 

[LSP_Ron]

That's a great effect, my effort is no where near as nice.

 

Ron

[eagledocf15]

Fantastic Work!!! Thanks for showing us this work in progress!

Edited November 13, 2012 by eagledocf15

[ericg]

I ran into a small problem with the plumbing lines that run from the wing to the fuselage, as the part snapped into 3 pieces whilst still on its sprue. Rather than glue it back together and risk having it snap again whilst cleaning it up and painting it I devised a method which I hoped would provide a good way of fixing the problem AND making the part more realistic at the same time. Not haveing done something likethis before, I decided to give it ago. The problem soving aspect of modelling is one which I think I enjoy the most about modelling, and rather than curl up into the feotal position under the workbench when something like this goes wrong, I reckon stuff like this only adds to the skill set.

 

Here is the part on the left, and the fix on the right. 2 pieces of appropriately diametered (is that even a word?) copper wire, annealed and soldered together. As the instructions call for the part to be painted `copper' what better way to simulate copper that to use the real thing.

 

 

Bent into the rough shape:

 

 

test fit to check the length. I will smooth it out a bit when it is glued into place to give it a natural look. Overall pretty pleased with how it turned out.

 

[LSP_Kevin]

Good work Eric! I totally agree with you about the problem-solving aspect of modelling, and especially how it presents the opportunity to stretch you skills and become a more accomplished modeller.

 

How's the prop looking?

 

Kev

[ericg]

Hi Kev,

 

The prop has just come back from a bath in windex, stripped, reprimed and re-painted...awaiting the re-application of the pastel pencil. wasn't happy with it.

[LSP_Ron]

I also agree Eric and nice work. I do find that sometimes the plastic WNW's uses acts a bit brittle. I haven't seen that problem with my Pfalz or Pup builds but I did see it with the Se5 and Abli builds.

 

Ron

[ericg]

I decided that the coulouring of the prop just wasn't doing it for me and that it had to be re-done. I threw it in a bath of windex and got rid of all the paint. Reprimed and repainted with Tamiya acrylic, then I used a darker shade of pencil, as per this photo:

 

 

Here is a close up of the woodgrain effect, applied with artist oils over a coat of future. I will let this dry for a couple of days and then give it an overcoat of Future tinted with Tamiya clear red to really give it the depth that I am after.

 

 

I am almost ready to start the weathering process. I have applied a nice coat of future over the entire model to seal the decals and to ensure that I am able to apply the weathering to a consistent surface.

 

[LSP_Ron]

Ok, that prop is insane, very, very nice. I would really appreciate knowing how you masked that to apply the oil's. My current effort isn't even close to this, please share

 

thanks

 

Ron

[LSP_Kevin]

Looks super sharp Eric. Nice work on the prop!

 

Kev

[ericg]

Hi Ron,

 

No masking tape was harmed in the production of this prop. all applied by hand and eye. By coincidence, the colour of the oil is the same colour of the darker laminate, so the grain is `hidden' on the darker layer whilst it contrasts on the lighter layer. Hopefully when I put the final tinted clear coat over it, the effect will be what I am after.

 

Eric.

[nzdavidh]

When I saw the pic of the pencil, I thought you planned to carve a new prop out of laminated timber... now that would be something else

[ericg]

Geez Dave not sure whether to take that as a compliment or a `you should have done better than that'!

[Guest Peterpools]

Eric

Insanely brilliant work on the prop and the finish is just stellar! Not too far doing the prop on my Albatros and your tutorial is like the 7th Cavalry to the rescue.

Nice work on the plastic pipe rescue. looks right on the money and the best way to replicate a copper finish.

Keep 'em coming

Peter :popcorn:

[ericg]

I have started the weathering of the lower wings so that they have a little depth.