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K.Y.Czart

Supermarine Spitfire Mk.I - 1:32 Tamiya/Revell/Hasegawa

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I would like to show my newest model in 1:32 scale. This is Supermarine Spitfire Mk.I, marked EB-G (N3162). This was one of few Spitfires of Sqn. 41, flown by Eric Lock DSO DFC - best scored fighter in Battle of Brittain. He shut down 4 enemys at one day (5th September 1940) flown Spitfire N3162. This model is my tribute for 70th anniversary of BoB, even though reamins two years.

Model is hybrid of Tamiya's Mk.IX and Revell\Hasegawa MK.I/II, supported by products of my (and friends) invention. Story you'll find here: http://www.modelarst...udowy&Itemid=77

I hope that will like it

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Best regards

Krzysiek

Edited by K.Y.Czart

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Extreamly well done ! Beautifly done,weathering, paint...the whole enchalota. Thanks for shareing. And welcome aboard. I thgink you found a home......Harv :thumbsup: :post1:

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Would you mind giving a quick summing up what you did - my polish is a bit rusty ;-)

 

Yeah, I know that polish isn't easy ;) . Unfortunatelly story acctualy is only in polish, and no plans translate it. But I hope that pictures are cleary to hanging. For better explains ask me precisley, please. I'll try to answer.

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Krzysiek,

 

Firstly, welcome to LSP :hi:

 

This is one of the most outstanding conversions I have ever seen, congratulation on producing such a stunning model :goodjob:

 

I read your build blog and I an immensely impressed with your modelling skills and application to detail.

 

Thank you for sharing your work with us.

 

Best regards

 

Derek

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Please forgive me that I forgot about greetings at start. That emotions reason.

 

Thank you for warm welcome, and wlecome everybody :hi: . I'm middle year old (52) modeler from Poland and this Spit is my second in this scale. Before my scale was 1:72, but now large is my domain.

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What a stunningly beautiful model! I looked at your link, wish I could read Polish so I could understand the words. The photos tell a great story, thank you for sharing it with us. I have wanted to build my Revell Mk. I, and didn't know how to solve the canopy issue- thanks for the photos showing how you did it.

 

:post1:

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excellent - really nice build! I love the attention to detail...

 

ps I have (roughly) translated the text that I could see, don't know if that's everything:

 

 

Attributable to 70th last year anniversary of the Battle of Britain decided to celebrate with a model. As this anniversary is special then the model should be unique. First of all - scale, large, 1:32 - still unusual for me. After a fairly successful debut, this is my second model in this scale. Secondly - conversion. I decided to use the model Spitfire Mk. Tamiya IXC as a base to build a replica of a Spitfire Mk. Ia, typical for the Battle of Britain. Thirdly - It was fitting that the pilot was also unique. The choice fell on Eric Lock DSO DFC - one of the most successful fighter pilots in the RAF. During the Battlehe scored 26.5 kills in just 25 weeks of operational service. He died August 2, 1941 during an attack on ground targets in the Pas-de-Calais. Most wins came in 41st Squadron RAF., including September 5 when he downed certainly two He 111 and two Bf 109E piloting Spitfire EB-G (N3162). It is that aircraft I decided to replicate with this airplane. Watching one of the many films about the history of the Spitfire, I came across a short piece showing the EB-G during taxiing (photo file with author). It's not enough, but more reliable picture of the airplane is not found.

 

By joining the project I was aware of his difficulties. Indeed Mk.IX and Mk.I is strongly divergent development versions. But I found that despite the differences, most versions are built with the same airframe. The reason for the decision to use Tamiya product was that it's a great set, and fully designed and executed. Tamiya probably also soon build a version of the Mk. I, but I did not want to wait. As a source of spare parts intended to use two sets of Revell - Supermarine Spitfire Mk age and a bit later, Mk.I / II - modified Hasegawa model. With all three sets in the shop I started to prepare this substantial project. To build a conversion, I had to first determine the extent of the differences between the two versions. In short, apart from minor details, they were:

 

First Engine. Spitfire Mk.I engine was equipped with Rolls-Royce Merlin III and Merlin engines Mk.IX Series 60. The engine in the earlier version had a single-stage supercharger. The version used in Spitfire Mk.IX, had a two-stage compressor and therefore a lot longer. Hence the difference in the shape and dimensions of the engine compartment, and therefore the entire hull of the two versions. The idea to rewrite the Mk.I version Mk.IX required shortening the front of the fuselage. Differences in the engine compartment also affected other parts - so under the hood, as well as outside. including oil tank and air intake, exhaust manifolds and a multitude of other minor issues, such as wiring and plumbing, etc.. It is necessary to also exchange with a propeller cap. But that will describe in a later update. Just like more details on the differences in the structure of wings and fuselage.

 

Second Wing A, differing from the type C type and distribution of arms and cooling system.

 

Third fuselage. Apart from minor variations in the equipment compartment, two main issues - first, this riveting convex in the back, and another - a different type of windscreen. The Mk.I Armoured glass was placed outside the cabin, and Mk.IX - inside. Removable canopy also had a slightly different shape - the "single room" it was flattened sides.

 

The rest, the tail and landing gear, was roughly the same.

 

The work started from the engine compartment. Composite dry Merlin 66 Tamiya model looks like this:

 

Merlin III, who had to build the maximum use of available parts, it looks something like this:

 

Picture: http://www.mcm-models.com/index_files/rolls_royce_merlin_engines.htm

 

I decided to use a base set of engine block including the transmission and replace just the compressor. But I had to leave the original - not valid for version III - a team with a carburetor intake duct to the compressor because it is the essential structural element of the model. Tamiya has not provided a closed model, which on the one hand is his advantage, but on the other causes some problems with the deviation from the instructions.

 

 

The first stage of construction of the engine was not too complicated. As I wrote before, Tamiya well designed and created all the elements of the set. These are great fitting, and interference with a file or a scalpel to separate the restricted parts of the frames. With pieces of polystyrene done compressor rotor housing with inlet channel. To build this piece, I used part of it, what I found in the set. Then I covered the whole Mr. Surfacer 1200 and Alclad 2 (Airframe Aluminium)

 

The next step was to paint black enamel of the engine, and before it is completely dry, wipe them a bit to get the finishing.

 

After assembling the engine parts together I began to supplement the remaining fixtures, wiring and fine details of the hydraulic system. I used to tin wire of various diameters, sometimes painted, but left most of the natural color of tin. During this work I used the images available on the Internet.

 

The next step was the installation of engine mounts. And there was not much difficulty. I also added features brass tube cooling system. As before, and here, I used pieces of tin wire, this time painted with Humbrol acrylic Clear Orange. I also added firewall and hardware.

 

 

Thus prepared, the engine gave up painting finishing treatments. Once dry, I could mount the rack. At this time the problem occurred. Without checking in advance whether it will be compliant with the rest of the original parts, I have modified a little detail the ignition system. But it was changed so serious that, in effect, this frame is in no way wanted to match the sheet metal cowling. There was no - I had to strip and redo everything, so that it properly. The engine in fact suffered no loss, while the places damaged when removing completed parts of the frame elements of the second model. The whole was re-installed and completed with detail, which included the factory was not the case. By the way, the engine also gained more wires and tubes ...

 

... and appropriate for this version of complex exhaust manifolds. The Mk. IX was six individual pipe on each side of the engine.

 

The next element that differs both versions of the aircraft was the oil tank. In an earlier, its lower part was also the middle panel, the lower engine cowling. I did a similar, but I've simplified it a bit to take advantage of structural elements of the model and have the ability to place a magnet fixing the front of the enclosure. All panels sought to protect the engine - in accordance with the idea of ​​Tamiya - attached to a model with a set of magnets. As a result of the proposed changes to the deployment will obviously different. But I tried to hide them so they weren't too visible.

 

The last detail to be mounted was made by Wojtek Fajga, PE chain transmission starter. Finally, I added some pastel powder and imitation waste oil and grease.

 

 

Another problem of conversion, this time demanding a solution outside the box, was raised riveting the rear of the fuselage. In Spitfirach plating of aluminum sheet was attached to the frame with rivets of various types and sizes. In the vast majority of them were flat-head rivets. Tamiya in your kit has solved this by carefully selected shallow wells with a diameter of about 0.2 mm. But the Tamiya kit represents Mk. IX of the later production runs. In earlier versions of the plane sheet at the rear of the hull were also fastened with rivets mushroom heads. Rivets in some lines were flat, while others - prominent. It was characteristic that in the processing version of the Mk. Mk IX. I had to be considered.

 

Photos: http://www.primeportal.net

 

In most cases, riveting models is not a problem. There are various tools, which without much difficulty, with due attention and diligence, you can do the lines of rivets almost machine precision. But these rows of holes or rivet holes to go flat. And what about the relief? Have examined in the project, guided knowledge and experience of colleagues, the various possibilities. I started by testing the finished commercial solutions, such as decals from HGW film imitates the Czech company raised rivets. A similar solution was an American company Archer decals. But they did not fulfill of expectations. Another idea, used by Wojtek Fajga in another project, it was riveting from the bottom panels with a very thin sheet of 0.13 mm polystyrene company Evergreen, and then sticking them on the fuselage. Ultimately, however, opted for a different way, also invented by Wojtek. A detailed description of this method deserves a separate article, and certainly its author will soon publish a manual. Me the honor of testing and I think that the attempt was successful.

 

The method involves the use of BGA balls as imitation mushroom rivet heads. These balls are used in electronics soldering. They are made of tin, lead, and various additives. It is very important that the hardness may vary, what is important. While the size of these balls makes it great for our purposes.

 

The first attempts Spitfire fuselage punching nails were very encouraging.

 

I bought the balls in three sizes 0.2, 0.25 and 0.3 mm. The material is relatively expensive, but fortunately, even small amounts are sufficient to cover a few models.

 

The photograph shows the primary and only outside the magnifying glass tool, used by me in this method. Of course, possible and even desirable is the use of more sophisticated tools - maybe then the effects would be much better. But during the test I used only the simple spike.

 

At the beginning I had to determine the correct size balls and come to a certain automation tasks. I chose the balls with a diameter of 0.25 mm (according to the manufacturer's designation), as the larger are too large, and small seemed to me a bit too delicate.

 

Surprisingly, the method was not so cumbersome, we looked at, and pretty soon were coming gleaming gray hull rivets on the Spitfire.

 

This method has been widely described in a separate article: Imitations riveting convex

 

As a result, after a couple of nights I had finished half of the hull with a completely new convex rivets. Lines not fully correspond to the original, as I led them exactly as proposed by Tamiya.

 

The rivets are actually mushroom, ...

 

... and after fixation ...

 

... Surfacer and painting ...

 

Structural components ... get ready for further assembly.

 

In conclusion, I can definitely say that this is effective and durable, yet simple and relatively fast.

 

 

What at first glance distinguished from Mk.IXc Spitfire Mk.I, the wings. Major changes in the internal construction and equipment of wings could actually result in the need of total replacement. However, the surprising compatibility-dimensional parts from two different sets of identical shape and their hopes of successful treatment of a cut-and-paste. The main difference between the wings of C available in the Tamiya kit, and type A in the constructed model, located in the Revell kit, was armed. The Mk.I Spitfire consist of eight Browning machine guns - four in each wing. Contrast, was equipped Mk.IXc two 20 mm Hispano cannon and four machine guns. Spaces of weapons in the wings A and C do not overlap - except there were two extra guns in each wing. From a technical point of view of structural differences was obviously a lot more, but since I put to myself that the wings are closed, I was interested in only the differences on the outside, namely: metal coating lines, the lines of riveting, cover arms, arrangement and number of inspection hatches, vents barrels and ejectors scales, etc. The second most characteristic feature of both versions of the Spitfire differed, and which concerned the appearance of wings, were completely different water and oil coolers. In Mk.IXc were identical elements are placed symmetrically on the left and right wing, and Mk.I system was asymmetrical. At the right wing was a water cooler, similar to that of Mk.IX, and under the left - less oil cooler and narrower oval. At this stage the relationship skip the difference in structure and appearance of the ailerons.

 

Thinking of remodeling, planned to maximize the new wing kits Tamiya. Entire wing of the Revell did not want to adapt because of their radically inferior quality. But the most important drawback was incorrect lower wing-fuselage transition. I wanted to use only what was absolutely necessary.

 

The lower halves of the wings Tamiya decided to remove part of the surface and replace them with pieces cut from the wing of the Revell kit. Mileage sheets dividing line in some way, imposed and facilitated the selection of cutting and joining. The technology division of the upper halves of the wings in the Tamiya kit facilitated the rebuilding of their own, using the trim-pieces of polystyrene, respectively.

 

The left wing Revell cut the part containing the oil cooler and cover arms ...

 

... on the right - just part of the cover containing the weapon. I left the original water cooler.

 

Before gluing the upper and lower halves of the wings, landing gear bays built in components.

 

Water cooler right-wing elements done, only the rear part has been changed. There I added a metal mesh and imitation weapons heating pipes.

 

The inlet and outlet of oil cooler also has metal mesh.

 

I also added details specific to this version of the wings, and completed properly cut pieces of plastic missing fragments, resulting from differences between the two sets.

 

After many amendments, additions and repeated grinding lower wing surfaces were prepared with Mr. Surfacer.

 

Alteration of the upper surfaces easier. It was enough to seal the holes Then putty joints and unnecessary lines plates and rivets. Afterwards sanding, and scribe new lines and covers weapons. No one could forget about a few bumps.

 

Old and over treated drilling of new guns and sockets outlets sheds lights it was a trifle longer.

 

And so the upper surface of the wings has also been prepared for laying surfacer.

 

I covered the wings with several layers of Mr. Surfacer 1200. After each layer coating after the corrections, honed, and I played with and complementary to the dividing lines and rivets. Indispensable tools to achieve satisfactory results were sandpaper 1200 and 2500, cloth polishing (Alclad micromesh)

 

 

The first thing I did by joining the work on the cockpit, I did what I missed during riveting - IFF antenna jack on the side of the hull.

 

Although the endurance test of rivets were very good, but I was afraid that the constant touching of the hull during construction of the cabin may eventually affect them. Hulls then went to my friend Wojtek, who cast the resin duplicates. Originals and hit the box as a pattern for the future. The model is thus partly resin.

 

The cockpit is a place where it is probably the greatest differences between the version of the Mk.I and Mk.IX - so I had to perform a lot of modifications. Although most of the details after the close of the hull is not visible, I know they are there, and that gives considerable satisfaction. Courtesy of unprecedented wealth and knowledge Wojtek, in the model (in particular, was in the cab) used a variety of useful technologies, such as photo-etched plates, illuminated plates, metal rivets, etc. And besides, I used the ready-made components and decals resin, polystyrene plates and profiles, wires and that which fell into his hands and could be utilized.

 

The first thing was it was necessary to replace the instrument panel. Based on images from the movie instructional mechanic with the RAF in 1940 and photos of instruments and equipment cabins available in the literature and the Internet I prepared a draft of any clocks, indicators, plates, and a new instrument panel and needed equipment. Wojtek in his secret laboratory, these digital images turned into real objects.

 

By the way, I got a whole lot of different rivets and washers, which were useful in equipping the cockpit.

 

 

The second thing is seat belts. PE kits replaced the belts produced by RB. They cut a fairly thick beige paper. The set also get PE fittings, buckles, etc. The installation is not easy, because the paper is neither permanent nor the plastic material.

 

pilot's seat, in turn, replaced with resin production Barracuda. This is appropriate seat, however, it needs a distinctive quilted leather backrest. For throttle (?) PE resin plaque and a set of Eduard control lever of the box.

 

 

First attempt at the instrument panel fared quite promising. The exposed and painted in appropriate colors with instruments positions the plates painted black etched, and then - identification plates and colored rings around the gauges. Later, however, I removed them because they looked too thick.

 

The new board had to be glued to smooth plate from the kit, and then mounted on the factory compartment. This barrier, however, somwhat hardwired, using etched to match the version of the Mk

 

Both cockpit sides have also been modified. In addition, I cut two left the lid covering their wiring. Most of the right is in turn prepared resin Barracuda. I decided to use it because it has good wiring and fittings made of de-icing windshield installation and installation of oxygen. Also, included was an additional remote contactor IFF, which included lack of Tamiya.

 

Properly seat mounting structure remained unchanged, added only a plaque and drilled holes in the frame. Completed the armor plate headrest made from scratch. I've also added the missing lever control Radiator shutters and corrugated pedals, and a little later gave them leather straps.

 

I covered all the main elements Mr. Surfacer 1200, to show the places that require patches and cleaning, but also to show their shapes, since the elements are made of clear, yellowish resin go bad in photos taken under artificial light.

 

All metal parts painted with Alclad White Aluminium and enamel 2062 Model Master RAF Interior Green. Effects tried to get the method used in the construction of the engine. Wiping the paint with a toothpick and suggested possible IG, leaving Alclad. The board behind the chair, which set is made of metal, some places also Alclad scraped, and then weakened plaque matte gloss clear lacquer. Skin, back and headrest painted by the element, trying to get a natural effect. The team completed the chair made the drive mechanism itself and rudder pedals. Rod is made of thin wire, which, however, still rushed in the end I had to mount much easier. Fortunately, you will not see them.

 

Slightly modified, ready-made instrument panel glued to the painted bulkhead, the whole element and fused with the front wall of the cabin. Then, cutted and painted optical viewfinder. This is part of glass screen, complete with flat mount and power cord. In the film, which I mentioned earlier, you can not see the loop of coiled wire. It is threaded for a viewfinder for the body and connected to the socket on the right. I decided to recreate this system in the model. Completed the entire sliding shutter is made from a piece of sun-induced black and white photographic film and the etched plaque. Finally, for best results, put in the appropriate places in the body viewfinder unused decals Barracuda elsewhere.

 

The resin control stick with a set of Barracuda changed the trigger button 8 km s on the round, the relevant version Mk.I. In later Spitfire, equipped with a gun, the trigger was a rectangular, three-position. Place the pipe fitting also changed the brakes on the right for this version. For pedals plaque imitating leather belts. When mounted on the frame of the floor all added rudder actuator rod made of these thin wire.

 

Both sides, and actually their lower parts, painted and attached a part of the accessories. Most of the small details come from a set of colored plates of Eduard. Decals and a set of Barracuda.

 

The rest of the equipment had to either make yourself, such as a switch to the radio, or modify the finished details, such as remote contactor, or just paint and make up the cables.

 

I also tried to make up your bulbs to crosshair, but eventually I used these in the set. Cable Oxygen System made from guitar strings and medical needles.

 

After mounting the majority of pieces I glued the bottom side of the cockpit to the fuselage halves, and then to the right side of the floor and equipment cabin. Instruction set offers a different installation, but for some reason I wanted to make it a classic - that is, all mounted on one half of the hull, and then appended the second half.

 

Eventually the cockpit took on an entirely different dimension.

 

Incidentally, in this picture you can see the difference in the quality of components depending on the used technology. Emergency cylinder lever opening the chassis and the red flap with the word DANGER is a colored plate of Eduard. Inscriptions on the body control mechanism for retracting the landing gear and the oxygen cylinder is a ribbon Barracuda. Information plates are exposed by Wojtek blocks, painted and glued Humbrola ordinary plastic adhesive. I assure you that they are legible at high magnification.

 

Time to close the fuselage. In the shell will disappear most of the details shown on the photographs, except those that you will be squinting to see the interior through the open canopy.

 

 

The fuselage was closed, its halves firmly bonded and joints filled and sanded.

On the back of the hull positions the last rows of convex rivets. But this time there were no balls, and the Czech decals HGW. Its main shortcoming is insufficient clarity. To fix it I put two layers, trying to make the rivets were placed precisely on each other.

Adhesion of previously prepared glass windscreen and rear cabin were not particularly complex, except for the necessity of preparation of an aluminum foil plate sealing strips at the windshield of his connection to the hull. Fixed glazing masked, and the hole sealed cabin. Then I painted large parts of the hull Alclad white aluminum.

Most of the Tamiya prepared in sufficient detail, but some of them with little effort can be improved. For example, ballasts require drilling additional holes and got a new rudder position light and mounting the antenna links. In addition, try to improve the appearance of connecting strips of masking plating on the controls the direction and height. What the kit manufacturer reproduces very well the reality.

 

antenna to the mast fitting similar to what occurred in this version of the aircraft.

The blade cut a piece of polished rectangular mirror. Interestingly, the early Spitfires had just a car mirror, placed inside the windscreen. On the basis of photos can be concluded that the EB-G was also such.

 

The last element of the fuselage, tail wheel off, the preparation of pre-merger planning hull with wings, was zipped canopy, also known as limousine. Of course, like the windshield, Tamiya limousine fits in a box only to version Mk.IX. It's a shame, because this is one of the best points of the set. In my case, both the windshield and limousine from Hasegawa kit. Adjustment of the minimum required cover shape, because it was a bit too broad. But the gentle bend in boiling water helped in adjusting the width of the hull. In addition, the cover side walls grinding them with sandpaper of different grit, then polished them and micromesh polishing paste. Reduce the thickness of the side walls was necessary, because the left side of the cover had to cut a window of safety. A thick wall would not look good in comparison with the fast window made of thin, transparent polystyrene. In cutting a hole in a limousine and taken a very fast template helped me with plotter cut foil - thanks, Wojtek.

Cover will be further complemented by an imitation of a frame made of adhesive films, but this time the metal. After painting the cover glass window sticker.

Wings before final assembly is also required to deal with a few trinkets. Darts in Mk. I differed from the cover of the set - should be linen. Although the Revell kit, which I had as a possible support, the primaries tried to create the impression of linen covered, but the imitation was not very successful, and they do not fit into the wings Tamiya. In this situation, I decided to use a set of darts, they only somewhat grinding cutters and dental rubber bands to obtain the effect of light deflection surface of the canvas.

Before I came to the worst nightmare of this set, the flaps - pre-prepared chassis. The set includes alternative components for the implementation of the chassis for the early and late versions Spitfire. Of course, I used to cover versions of early and alloy wheels. Tires included are smooth, with no tread, made of solid, fairly hard rubber, which makes it have a good look. But while it makes do not bend under the weight of the model. However, they can be quite easy to grind. So I removed the seams on the tread and the tire deflection by light grinding them into place with coarse sandpaper. Chassis is mounted in the recesses of wings without glue, but only by means of screws, to allow easy alternative exposure model with landing gear retracted. The shape of the lid and legs did not require major adjustments. Shaving also made the only externally visible part of the locking bolt chassis. There is still extra money the brake hose and mounting them. Interestingly in the EB-G is the color of the left leg. The original photograph is black. This may be a remnant of the previous painting or evidence of replacement from another aircraft.

 

 

Before we started to, as I wrote before, struggle with, in my opinion, the worst element of the Tamiya kit - I had a moment to return to the rudders and ailerons. In the latter deepened a little deflection of the canvas, because it seemed too little seen.

Rudders require a bit more fixes. Wojtek drew my attention to detail that escaped me. Canvas cover for Spitfire was fastened to the frame structure with staples masked with tape, which is very similar to the aircraft of WW I.

The Tamiya kit is reproduced in a fairly simple and not very subtle, as can be seen in the pictures in the previous update. And it should look like this:

 

Initially I thought about it, to completely sand ready to stick the tape produced by the Czech company HGW. However, the attempt proved a failure.

Another way that I came to mind is spoiling tape with knife and file. The aim was to obtain irregular bumps on the surface of the tape. I went here better, but the method required caution and moderation.

Eventually, as amended, and painting Mr. Surfacer, assumed correct (well, almost) appearance:

 

Rudders and ailerons are from the box. It was just glued the wings to the fuselage. Fuselage and wing fold, despite alterations, it was quite good and require a very small amount of putty.

The hole in the base of the camera lens right wing. In the video showing the prototype can not see whether he had a mounted camera. But the second film, which was about Spitfires from this period, the camera does not show.

 

... and some extra air into the carburetor intake compatible with this version of the aircraft. This involved, of course, the necessity (???) old and new dividing lines in the plate area.

 

I glued the horizontal stabilizers, trying to maintain proper geometry.

 

I could finally move flaps . Mk.IX Tamiya Spitfire is a great set - thoughtful, carefully designed and executed. Really hard to find flaws in it. Although these defects are, of course, unfortunately. And that's usually where one would not expect this from such a reputable manufacturer. One of the major weaknesses of the set are, in my opinion, flaps. Although in real operating conditions, when parked at the airport, rarely can find - beyond routine maintenance intervals - Spitfire with flaps lowered. However, I decided to do it is in the DOWN position, due to their attractive appearance.

Fortunately, the manufacturer requires the exposure of this part is also in this position. Unfortunately, the actual appearance of the soft plastic flap Spitfire is very far away. Details cavities and bipartite flap included in the kit are not doing a good impression. Ribs are too thick, have a bad shape and are poorly distributed. Additional etched instead of increasing the visual qualities can exacerbate the problem - they look as if they were cut from a piece of metal & lack any detail.

. In the niches there are only three on each wing. The flaps and there are up to fourteen (!) On each of which is between all the ribs. Perhaps Tamiya designers thought that hardly any modeler will build a model of the flaps in the DOWN position, because in this option, you mutilate them even further. I probably can say that the removal of traces (???) not especially difficult, but for me they were a true nightmare.

 

The first attempts to (???) (???) ended in failure, because I could not cope with the grinding surfaces of putty on the narrow ribs limited. Remove the excess with a remover or did not give satisfactory results. Wells were shallow, but quite wide, so wiping too much filler, and traces still effectively marred the surface. So I decided to sand the cavity and flaps on smoothly, removing traces of (???), but also with them ribs. I did it without regret, and by the way very (???) flaps. The next step was to be cut from a thin sheet of polystyrene all deleted items and re-glue them in the recesses.

 

Unfortunately, this time the results were unsatisfactory. It was necessary to finally reach for solutions. I bought the Eduard photo-etched metal company dedicated to the Tamiya kit. However, after the first attempt to fit in amazement I found that sheets do not fit. I do not know what was the reason, whether the defect Eduard kit if my treatment wing, but the parts that fit in niches was too broad and that of about 2 mm.

I was left with nothing else but yourself you need to design and etch metal. I drew a new damper elements, on the occasion of designing it so that it was easier to assemble them together. Unfortunately I made a mistake in the design of bulk etching and during most delicate parts was irretrievably damaged. Then came the invaluable help, as always, Wojtek, who respectively redesigned new flaps.

 

For bending of tiny fins used the tools of a different primary purpose - Caliper.

 

As the binder I used to solder paste Koki, and as a soldering iron, gas microtorch. Despite my initial concerns the method proved to be very comfortable and clean, although some parts I had to stick with glue. Attempts to fit the dry bay in the first came out positive.

 

Now I have to finish soldering, vents and fill them with items made of polystyrene profiles and copper wire.

Like the model, and the flaps were painted Alclad Surfacer, and then their outer surface - Sky-colored enamel.

Fitting dampers complete team scored positively. I must admit, given that it is the first time in this area that I am quite happy with the result, though of course it is still far from ideal.

 

The parts are available in two sets of plates Eduard flap (???) water cooler.

The whole painted Mr. Surfacer 1200 and Alclad White Aluminum, which was a primer for basic colors.

Most parts of the model is properly prepared. So finally came time to begin to correct the phase of painting. After masking flaps cavities and partially chassis, the bottom surface of the wings were painted enamel in the color SKY. When dry, put on the next primary colors. When I finish drying them the rest of details, but more on that in the next update.

 

 

It becomes almost a tradition that the beginning of the next update applies to the ailerons. This time, because fellow modeler drew my attention - rightly so, that darts in a canvas covered Spitfirach Mk.I look quite different than those in my model. I admit that not having been good archival photos, showing the details of primaries, some ignored this element. After much discussion, and finding suitable materials, however, decided to improve the aileron. First I tried to fight with their surface. But instead of the expected effect of the deflection of the canvas, I received the effect of twisted metal. The slightly protruding seams on the ribs primaries planned for this version to do with fine wire, cut pasted in earlier slots.

 

Another idea that came to my mind was to use the ailerons with Revell kit. Although they require adjustments in shape, but it is on the bottom side were almost ready imitation of canvas covering. On the upper surface of the incision made in the areas of the ribs and glued strips decals. The result was not bad, but the primaries - despite amendments - still not very well fit into the wings.

 

I went back to the primaries Tamiya. sanding them smoothly. In places the seams / ribs (???) Czech shallow grooves with a razor blade. Then pasted the polystyrene profile is not circular - the smallest commercially available. Then (???) aileron surface. The decals graphics program corresponding to the sketch prepared canvas covered ailerons. Once printed, and carefully cut the ribbon I put ailerons. Their black color was an asset when painting. In one of the ailerons glued additional weights to disk, etched with a brass plaque. At the end of the aileron painted in camouflage colors and charted prepared in a drawing program with subtitles ribbon supplies.

 

Once dry, the color of the bottom, I could paint the camouflage colors of the model - Dark Earth and Dark Green. Nationality marks and letter code 41st RAF Squadron also painted with oil enamel. I used to do this by Wojtek precut masks. I did it the first time and I admit it is a very good method, but, having now the first experiment, the next painting, apply a different sequence of colors.

 

After drying the base colors I started applying weathering

 

During this work there was an unexpected failure - cracked welds connecting the fuselage with the wings. I had to carefully glue the parts again, sand and mask signs of repair.

 

In addition to painting a rather lengthy steps have to remember, of course, you can capture details of the model. Sliding canopy was initially prepared, but since the cover frame is erased when grinding glass, it had to be restored. I decided to make a new frame with a metal foil. The first attempt of the adhesive film was unsuccessful. Wojtek (???) frames so that elements with a thin blade, and I glued it to the cover glue bought at the supermarket, which fit perfectly.

 

I painted the frame taped and glued to the plastic window cover.

 

Then I glued the imitation rivets paint balls, and finally dokleiłem doorknob lock.

 

He made a new handle wire antenna on top of the rudder. Previous to broke off, and anyway not really suit the shape of the original. Wojtek got a piece of rubber excellent links EZ-line, which will imitate the wire antenna.

 

Completed the chassis brake lines and bands on the legs of a tire - the name of the manufacturer.

 

Spinner glued, pasted, and the whole painted.

 

Glued to the windscreen frame automobile rear-view mirror, and then charted on a model developed earlier in the graphic tracing of the relevant inscriptions supplies.

 

Pasted the rest of positioning and navigation lights - amber under the belly, red on the left, a green (shade not yet painted) on the right wing.

 

As part of an ongoing collection of experiences and learning fototrawienia this time alone - though not without some difficulty - have prepared another plaque, consisting mostly of strips securing the engine cowling.

 

The end of the model was only fit rudders, flaps, ailerons, landing gear and a few trinkets. Were it not that I have yet to prepare a new set of engine covers, it actually could have set light to the final gallery. However, shorter Merlin also needs less metal. The upper cover prepared by simple reduction of the set. I cut out unwanted segments, again and zaszpachlowałem paper mached binding site. Wypiłowałem of plastic and dokleiłem to cover a small inlet vent and ribbing bubbles that appear in this version. The front cover and the bottom will remain unchanged. In addition, I decided that the rear side panels and bottom do with a suitably shaped photoetched parts, since there would be changes in the shape of too big to be able to use the plastic version Mk.IX.

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Wow! I'm really surprised. I read quickly and looks like almost all is properly translated. Many thanks mate, very nice job. :goodjob:

 

ps. zaszpachlowałem - fill something (putty);

wypiłowałem - saw and file;

dokleiłem - glued to something

Edited by K.Y.Czart

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Extreamly well done ! Beautifly done,weathering, paint...the whole enchalota. Thanks for shareing. And welcome aboard. I thgink you found a home......Harv :thumbsup: :post1:

 

I'm with Harv on this.

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That's the best Mk.1 I've ever seen! You nailed it! Brilliant work on the rivets too - also perfect. I'd love to here more on how you achieved this amazing domed rivet effect.

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That's the best Mk.1 I've ever seen! You nailed it! Brilliant work on the rivets too - also perfect. I'd love to here more on how you achieved this amazing domed rivet effect.

 

I translated the text

Edited by richdlc

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