Future = ?

[GSNeil]

Hey all - just checking something - Future is called something else now (in US) ,right, and is it the same product as it used to be?

[Cunumdrum61]

Hey all - just checking something - Future is called something else now (in US) ,right, and is it the same product as it used to be?

 

I think it is now called Pledge with future. Whatever it is called it is the same. I'm sure a few of the other guys on the forum will know for certain and respond.

[GSNeil]

Thanx - googled that name - and yes, that appears to be it....

[jgreiner]

"Pledge with Future Shine" is what it's now labelled on the bottle. Basically the same 'ol good stuff but I do believe that it's EVER SO slightly "thinner" than the older stuff. Absolutely NO need to thin it with anything.......whether you airbrush or hand brush the stuff on. Still one of the best products out there IMHO!

 

John

[Out2gtcha]

I will never use it as an overall clear (ever) again as the new stuff pools even worse than the older Future, but it still is the only thing I use to dip clear windscreens. canopys/parts in. Works great for that.

 

Brian

Edited May 9, 2012 by Out2gtcha

[KOTR]

I will never use it as an overall clear (ever) again as the new stuff pools even worse than the older Future, but it still is the only thing I use to dip clear windscreens. canopys/parts in. Works great for that.

 

Brian

 

You might want to try adding a little isopropanol alcohol to Future when using it with an airbrush. That solved the problem with pooling for me.

[csavaglio]

It pools if you spray too heavy a coat. I solved the pooling issues by misting the initial coat and building it up with slightly heavier coats but never a super wet coat. I don't wait long between coats.

 

Also, if you ever see it turning bluish or whitish in heavy spots while it's curing, it was put on way too heavy.

 

 

C

Edited May 11, 2012 by csavaglio

[PhilB]

You might want to try adding a little isopropanol alcohol to Future when using it with an airbrush. That solved the problem with pooling for me.

I think you will find that Brian (correct me if I'm wrong here mate) doesn't need to put it through an airbrush because like me he only uses it for dipping clear parts which its perfect for, giving a crystal clear finish which is immune from ca fumes.

That's all I've ever used it for.

For prepping the model for decals I either polish the paint to a sheen (it doesn't have to have a glass finish) or I use stuff called a clear coat which is a varnish. Model Master enamels clear coats are the absolute biz for this.

Acrylic varnishes work great too if acrylics are your thing.

Varnish is good as its a type of paint and goes really well on top of other paint.

Why you guys are still using a floor polish on carefully applied paint is just beyond me.

Just my two pences worth in the ongoing floorpolish saga.

 

[KOTR]

Well, each and every one makes his own experiences over time and thus developes his own techniques and preferences. The problem with pooling of Future was familiar to me, that's why I shared my humble experience. Nothing wrong with any other kind of clear coat, of course, if these are prefered

[Out2gtcha]

I think you will find that Brian (correct me if I'm wrong here mate) doesn't need to put it through an airbrush because like me he only uses it for dipping clear parts which its perfect for, giving a crystal clear finish which is immune from ca fumes.

 

 

DING!

 

After I found the MM line of lacquer clears Im never ever going back. You can put that stuff over acrylic, enamel or any other paint, and it ends up bombproof about as "pool proof" as you can get........you really have to work at it to get that stuff to even run.........BUT........that being said, I still love Future for dipping clear parts in. As you said Kotr, each to their own.

 

Cheers,

Brian

Edited May 11, 2012 by Out2gtcha

[GSNeil]

DING!

 

After I found the MM line of lacquer clears Im never ever going back. You can put that stuff over acrylic, enamel or any other paint, and it ends up bombproof about as "pool proof" as you can get........you really have to work at it to get that stuff to even run.........BUT........that being said, I still love Future for dipping clear parts in. As you said Kotr, each to their own.

 

Cheers,

Brian

 

So do you thin the Testors with laquer thinner or is the regular airbrush thinner ok. Also, do you do multiple lighter coats or one coat for coverage?

[Out2gtcha]

So do you thin the Testors with laquer thinner or is the regular airbrush thinner ok.

 

The stuff is quite amazing actually. You need to thin it with the same line of their testors thinner, NOT using any regular lacquer thinners as that is the secret/key:

 

The line is technically called "Enamel system" lacquer clears.

 

Flat = 2015

 

 

 

 

semi gloss = 2016

 

 

 

Gloss = 2017

 

 

 

And the thinner you must use as it is 'coolest" (as in chemically hot and not the in the Fonzie kinda way) lacquer ive ever seen is 2018

 

 

 

Stuff is amazing and pretty much, from what I have found, will go over most any paint that is dry and end up as bullet proof as clears can get. Way, (and I mean WAY more durable than Future). Doesnt get bothered by any of the stuff that tends to upset acrylics. Shoots more fine than Future with non of the mixing hassles, and atomizes extremely fine, so that when shooting through an air brush you really do have to work to get this stuff to run at all.

 

 

Also, do you do multiple lighter coats or one coat for coverage?

 

This is up to you. The stuff goes on SO thin, and drys SO fast you actually have to be careful. If you put it on in very thin coats and build them up to the sheen you want, you almost have to watch things or the clear is almost dry before it lands on the model. This is an exaggeration, but the stuff goes on and drys VERY fast. Just need to lay a couple coats on and see. Stuff is truly amazing.

 

No offense to anyone using Future as a clear..............BUT if you somehow, someway decided just to try this stuff once....................I almost guarantee, you'd never EVER go back to using Future for anything but dipping clear parts in. I know some of you guys are used to Future for this kind of thing, and again, each to their own, but there IS actually something out there that works and performs MUCH better. This stuff actually does work that much better than Future; I say this from experience.

 

Brian

[GSNeil]

Hey thanx for the detailed response I thought at first you were refering to the regular Testors dullcoat / glosscoat in the large bottles. I will check out the other - clearcoats are definitely in the less comfortable zone for me - and I like to experiment.

[PhilB]

It was Brian that put me onto the Model Master system clears and thinners and I have to agree with him.

If you are happy using Klear/Future then carry on.

Its just that there are alternatives which I believe are a lot less hassle and give exceptional results.

In this hobby we are always looking for tips etc and new ways of doing things.

As Mr Gorbachev said before the break up of the old Soviet Union "Do we do things the way we do them because we have always done them that way or do we do them that way because we should be doing them that way".

Here's an example of the MM system.

This was my 1/24 Mosquito. Most of the markings were masks but it still needed some kit decals.

Big decal on the fuse had a lot of silvering potential.

Rather than coat the whole plane I just used the clear where the decals would go.

Three coats of MM gloss applied in the space of about 10 mins.

As Brian says it dries VERY fast.

 

 

It goes on very thin so you don't end up with a raised "blob" around the decal area.

 

Left overnight to let the decal set then a couple of coats of MM flat and its done:

 

 

Each to his own but this stuff has been a revelation for me.

[Out2gtcha]

I think Phil hit on one of the best examples of this stuff.....................Just try in ONCE, and if your a regular Future user for clears, it could change your whole outlook. As Phil says, you can spot it on with no issues, but in the long run it is also VERY durable and is not bothered by much if you weather things.

 

Cheers,

Brian