Bill Cross Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 Nicely busy. Will look great when painted. dodgem37 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted December 2, 2014 Author Share Posted December 2, 2014 Thank you, Raf. Thank you, Brother Bear. What would nuts be without washers? Thank you, Vandy. I'm glad you're back! Thank you, Wolf. Very generous and kind of you. Oh yes, pardon me, I had forgotten you were working on a Pfalz. Getting old(er) I guess. I suppose my invitation to your sons wedding got lost in the mail. No worries! I had a family wedding that day also. Weddings can be a fun time. Sometimes it seems, to me at least, there is too much time between fun times. I hope a good time was had by all. I know about a slump. I was in a slump for a while. I needed to get away from modelling and do plenty of anything else to clear the mental congestion. Luckily since getting back to the Mustang have I gotten it behind me. I had started a PT boat, an AH-1S, and then the SUFA. Nothing was getting me going until I came back here. And now it seems to be falling into place (from my mouth to God's ears!). Good luck No worries, Chuck. Thank you, Chuck. As for accuracy, don't compare the wheel well to closely to any manuals, that's for sure. The cockpit and battery compartment, OK. The wheel well, let's just say maybe 50%. Quality: well, just trying to not cut any corners. Thank you, Chuck. Thank you, Ray. Thank you, Mark Thank you, Bill. Indeed busy. You know the old saying, 'If you can't dazzle them with quality, then dazzle them with quantity!' I sure hope it will look great when painted. I'll know when I get there. The wheel well is done done done done (to the tune of Dragnet)! Now I can get a LIFE!! Micro Albion Alloy tube, squished flat and drilled. Flared the end of .010 rod and made a fastener so it can rotate. The invisible thread enters here. The thread represents the Landing Gear Strut to Timing Valve Cable. The brake line is supposed to enter the front of the strut just above the 'Valve' cable, but there is not enough room because of the screw location to fasten the strut into the well. I needed to move the brake line intersection to the inside. So I removed a grease fitting that I had earlier located here and installed a piece of hex rod, drilled fore, to receive the brake line running from the well, and to the side to capture the strut mounted brake line. After coaxing the line into a curve, and finding that it is too short, I bridged the connection with insulation. Forgot to glue in the pin to capture the brake line from the well. I'll be bridging the brake lines with red insulation that will have enough play to accommodate a retracted strut. At least that's the idea. I needed to back-track and rearrange the brake and valve lines. Also needed to cross the lines to accommodate the strut. Other side. New hydraulic line next to the spring. Other side as well. Tamiya part: Hydraulic Landing Gear Operating Strut. Albion Alloy stuff: Hydraulic Landing Gear Down Lock Actuator. Box with Albion Alloy: Landing Gear Position Indicator Switch. Hydraulic lines. Other side. Hydraulic lines made up. On to the engine! Thank you for looking in and your wonderful words. Sincerely, Mark allthumbs, Tomek, Lars Befring and 7 others 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_K2 Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 You have way too much time on your hands. dodgem37 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 GEEEZZZ !..........Harv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Babs Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 Great details realized with talent. I can only appreciate. dodgem37 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 Brother Bear Now that's what I call a well well. Just love the detailing. Keep 'em coming Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick K Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 am a late comer on this build. Truly outstanding scratch work. Always an educational and inspirational trip when I follow your builds. dodgem37 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williamj Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 Just keeps gettin better and better. Don't believe anyone has done the wheel well like this..makes mine look like the Gobi. dodgem37 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rafju Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 Nicely busy. Will look great when painted. And that brings me to ask: Hello Mark How will you do for painting such small and difficult access détails like wiring and tubing and also surface behind these??? raf dodgem37 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted January 10, 2015 Author Share Posted January 10, 2015 How right you are, Kevin. Thank you, Babs. Thank you, Brother Bear! Thank you, Rick. IOU. Thank you, William. Gobi, that's funny. Well, Raf, I've been contemplating that same question. All I can say is that I'll do what I can. Small update. Found a new drawing and scheme: I like this layout better. I spent a bit of time messing around with rockets and bombs but the mold material never cured, twice!, and the only thing I found to really clean the material off of the LEGOs is HOT! As in, melt the plastic. So lots of LEGOs were deep sixed. Anyway, the Sinai distances are relatively short and extra fuel tanks aren't really necessary but I wanted something under the wings. Put in some piping. Drilled some holes. Sanded the back flat and glued in some screen. It probably doesn't belong but I liked the idea. It's from a tea bag. Worked on the engine a bit. Ignition lines are solder and represent braided stainless steel sheathing. In post 55 I tempted myself with braided sheathing as an idea but decided against it. To imitate the sheathe I rolled solder under a flat file to impress the diamond pattern into the surface. You can see the texture better on the solder strip at the magneto. Hanging coolant hose ties in. I had nothing but trouble here. So much so that I'm considering closing up the engine and being done with it. Wire with red is piston primer. Most of the work was done on this side. Air intake/carburetor is tension-fitted into the bell housing. The blue insulation on the ignition wires just has to go. White is CA remover. Don't now how that got there. Coolant hose ties in. Ran a center-line down the rod to help with alignment of the protuberances. Lost linkage detail while working on the front end. Oh well. Not really happy with my execution on this engine. I'll step back for awhile and see what develops. Thanks for looking in. Sincerely, Mark KiwiZac, plane_mc, Tomek and 6 others 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mal_Belford Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 Mark...Heads up....it looks great...but, them ignition on the sides, big risk that when the exhaus plate komes in place its a big risk that them cables come between...they dont fit.... so you may need to trim them plates (the one with them exhaus pipes) on the inside...just want to give you heads up....happened to me.... So dryfit with them fuselage halfes and all them plates and wowling to make shure it fits niceley inside.... also your engine looks absolutely fantastic... /Mal dodgem37 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 Brother Bear Nice detailing on the drop tanks and the Merlin; WOW! Nothing as spellbinding as watching your thread develop when you are on a roll! Looking fantastic Keep 'em coming Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparzanza Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 (edited) Awesome attention to detail as always! I hope I can get it somewhere near it when I get started on my 1/24 Airfix Mustangs... Edited January 10, 2015 by Sparzanza dodgem37 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted January 10, 2015 Author Share Posted January 10, 2015 (edited) Mal: I will be sure to double-check the fit. I checked the fit when the ignition wires had blue insulation leading into the engine. I had to remove them. Since I had super-glued them in place I had to use CA Remover to remove them and the insulation. A bit of Remover overflow caused the white area below the oil pump. At least I think it's the oil pump. The wiring should now be able to lie flat beneath the exhaust panel, something it wasn't able to do with the blue lead-in insulation. I was so tired of messing with this that I did not put the engine back in and re-panel the nose to check the panel fit. But I will go double-check now. Thank you, Brother Bear! Sparzana: Stay away from the engine! You may have read in the beginning of my post that I had difficulty with the silicone moldings. I haven't forgotten you. I am awaiting some new molding material that is not the two-part blue molding material one often sees. The last batch of that I bought has twice not solidified for me. It created a mess with time-consuming clean-up, but I haven't given up. I appreciate your patience. Sincerely, Mark Edited January 11, 2015 by dodgem37 Sparzanza and Mal_Belford 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony in NZ Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 Mark, this is the kind of model building I love, very inspiring indeed! Taking notes for my own Tamiya RNZAF one. Keep up the awesome work. Cheers Anthony KiwiZac and dodgem37 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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