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dodgem37

Tamiya P-51D, Sinai, 1956, Finished, 2.1.18

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Awesome work on your Mustang build Mark! Very nicely done. I'm pretty sure the apparatus you've scratch built that sits atop the tail wheel strut is the tail wheel lock mechanism. All in all, really well done. You've raised the bar again! The one thing that I am trying to figure out while looking at the kit parts is how to make the tail wheel castor and still retain the strength of the tail wheel strut. Something I'll have to figure out when I get to my own build of the Mustang.

 

Keep at 'er Mark,

 

Cheers,

Wolf

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Nice work Mark! Have you tried to dry fit the engine in to it's carrier mount and add the exhaust shroud? One thing I found with the Spitfire is that the framework that supports the exhaust shroud sits very tight to the cylinder head and interferes with the plug wires if they are set proud of the cylinder head. What you've done may make the exhaust shroud not fit. Just check before you get too far. That's why I didn't bother to represent the spark-plugs and just drilled holes in the cylinder heads to accept the solder plug wires. If I'm not totally mistaken, the "T" shaped apparatus below the ignition conduit, mounted to the side of the engine block is the oil pressure regulator and an external pressure gauge could be fitted to check oil pressure during maintenance. Where did you source the braided line for the flexible ignition conduit?

 

One other observation, you may want to change the orientation of the tow bar eyelet pieces at the bottom of the main gear legs. They should be oriented horizontally rather than vertically if you know what I mean.

 

Cheers,

Wolf

I had exactly the same experience. Spend hours wiring the plugs to find the shroud doesn't fit and had to rip them out. The ones on the top intake area of the engine will fit fine.

Thank you, Wolf, Ron.

 

'Have you tried to dry fit the engine in to it's carrier mount and add the exhaust shroud?'

I have not, but I now shall. I've only been test fitting into the mount.

 

'Where did you source the braided line for the flexible ignition conduit?'

http://www.detailmas...y_Code=DM-Braid

 

'One other observation, you may want to change the orientation of the tow bar eyelet pieces at the bottom of the main gear legs. They should be oriented horizontally rather than vertically if you know what I mean.'

I do know what you mean. When I was punching discs, drilling holes, and looking at my references I noticed how 'Dragon got it right and Tamiya got it wrong'. I had forgotten about it. Appreciate you bringing it back to life. I'll look into it.

 

Thanks for looking in.

Sincerely,

Mark

 

Hey guys

I could not make sense out of being able to pick from running the plug wires on either the top of the engine by the intake manifold OR on the exhaust side. I did some research and found that when looking fron the supercharger end the magneto on the right is the 'A' mag and the one on the left is the "B" mag. The A mag is wired to the intake side spark plugs and the B mag is wired to the exhaust side plugs. Each cylinder has 2 spark plugs. Hope this helps sort out the ignition wiring.

 

By the way, the "research" was done on Marks link. Thanks Mark

The info is on pg 2

http://aviationshopp...nuals-a-26.html

 

Bud

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'The one thing that I am trying to figure out while looking at the kit parts is how to make the tail wheel castor and still retain the strength of the tail wheel strut.'

I took a look at the issue and, after making two struts, decided to score and cut the wheel strut off with a single edge razer, drill a hole into the strut angle, insert a pin, cut some rod (the strut up in the housing), drill a hole in the rod to insert the pin, drilled the housing to receive the rod, and drilled a pin hole into the top to receive the 1mm pin extension. This way the strut rotates on the pin and not on the rod. It works for me, but others' mileage may vary. I'll post the mock-up a little later.

 

'Hope this helps sort out the ignition wiring.'

Indeed it does. Page 29 is helpful also.

 

Sincerely,

Mark

Edited by dodgem37

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Thank you, Kevin. I usually know where to begin. It's where to stop . . . .

 

Thank you, Ron.

 

Thank you, Wolf. The bar I'm setting? You make me laugh. Just following your lead, and trying to catch up!

 

Thank you, Budman. There is so much going on on that engine it is hard to decipher. Pipes and wires running under, pipes and wires running over, nuts, bolts, rods, linkages. It's enough to give one a headache.

 

It had not occurred to me to do anything with the tail wheel caster until Wolfs' comment so I did some work to see what I could see.

 

DSCN6573.jpg

Parts breakdown. Removed the strut by scoring its circumference then cutting it away using a single edged razer blade. Drilled a hole in the strut to receive a brass rod. Drilled a hole in a 1/16" diameter styrene rod to receive the brass rod. Drilled a hole in the housing to receive the styrene rod.

 

DSCN6574.jpg

Mocked-up parts. Brass rod is 1mm longer than styrene rod. Brass rod will set into a pin-hole drilled into the top of the hole to receive the styrene rod. This way the unit will rotate on the brass pin and the styrene rod will act as a rotational guide.

 

DSCN6576.jpg

Mocked-up assembly. This is probably what I really only wanted to do to begin with, but I got lost in all of that other detail work. Thanks for mentioning this, Wolf. I had forgotten about it.

 

Appreciate everyone stopping by and commenting.

Thanks for looking in.

Sincerely,

Mark

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Guest Martinnfb

Incredible, breathtaking and stunning!,,are the first words that came to my mind after I opened this thread, Bravo!

M.

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Mark

First, both you and Wolf are at a completely different level. You guys do such near impossible work so cleanly and your engineering is without equal. You guy's work leads the way for those of us who are trying to improve our skills (or lack there of).

I read your warning on the exhaust side ignition and I really appreciate your saving me a lok of work just to find it won't fit. :deadhorse:

A quick look at the exhaust manifold certainly proved you correct. What a shame.

 

Your build is a beautiful thing to watch. What a tail wheel!!

 

Bud

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Thank you, Martin for your complements. You are very generous.

 

Thank you, Bud. You overwhelm me with praise, and in putting me in a catagory with Wolf. I'm working to elevate my skills to Wolf status, but it isn't easy, believe you me.

 

Thank you, Richard.

'I now think you are as crazy as me'

You make me laugh.

 

I've been putting some time into the cockpit side walls. I'm not quite finished with the cockpit, but I've done enough to show, and importantly to me, from which to take a mental break.

 

DSCN6577.jpg

I redid the sidewalls. The light is referenced from 'P-51 Mustang', Crown Books, Robert Grinsell & Rikyu Watanabe. New wiring. Drilled rod, drilled nut, and loom. New conduit along sidewall. Silver fasteners are adhesive backed lead tape, used to weight the head of tennis rackets. Picked this tip up from Paul Budzik web site.

 

DSCN6578.jpg

Another angle. The loom ties look more like barbed wire. Oh well.

 

DSCN6582.jpg

The handle near the seat with the yellow ball: the yellow ball is Purigen, which is used in fish tank filtration systems. The large ones are just the right size. Glued to solder. Most of my time working on the sidewalls was trying to succeed in putting grips on those two dials. I failed three times with three different ideas, miserably I might add, then said the hell with it and moved on. Removed and built the salvo release levers and put in a couple of invisible thread wires. Refinished the sidewall braces and added strip as a fill-in.

 

DSCN6583.jpg

Another angle. Cut a disc for the map case snap. Rebuilt the carburattor air control handles and base. The hot air control is misaligned. Oh well. You may be able to see that I drilled some holes in the canopy slide rail top. I'm contemplating solutions for the outside face. Lots of new stuff on the throttle control housing.

 

Thanks for looking in!

Sincerely,

Mark

Edited by dodgem37

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Thank you, Tomek. Sanding the primary faces after cutting/punching out the part removes the ridges. I've found that sanding afterward is a key to having a really defined part.

 

A few more shots of the cockpit.

DSCN6587.jpg

I made a few buttons, which appear to have fallen off, bummer, back to the drawing board, and redefined the fuel shut-off valve (the little yellow ball and handle toward the left), fuel selector valve (the knob in the center - I see I need to trim the top part to a point), and the emergency hydraulic release handle (on the right). I redid the rods (.010) connected to the rudder pedals to better reflect the real deal. Before they were invisible thread. Front connection to the pedal and rear connection to the rod are hinged, so they can rotate.

 

DSCN6584.jpg

.005 cut strip with .005 bits. I don't know what this stainless steel railing piece is called but I made it because it's so prominent when the canopy is open.

 

DSCN6588.jpg

Right side. I drilled a hole thru the tab on the back of the armored headrest to accept the aerial. I also drilled a hole thru the canopy while I was at it. Oh, I forgot the canopy 'weather strip'. I'll do that later.

 

DSCN6589.jpg

Left side. A little clean-up is in order.

 

Except for the bits that need replacing the cockpit is finished. Now it's on to the engine and firewall. That's going to be a real test.

 

I appreciate you stopping by.

Sincerely,

Mark

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As always very nice work Mark, not sure what the stainless steel parts are either, but could be something to do with sealing the canopy down?? I see you used .005" plastic for them, have you tried using .003" or .002" brass shim I find it very useful for these small parts.

 

Regards

Richard

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