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Tamiya P-51D, Sinai, 1956, with Reposted Images


dodgem37

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With all of the great armor and artillery models being posted, and bought, I got the heebie-jeebie inspiration to break out something that has been asleep for a few years.  I haven't forgotten the Mustang, it's in the paint booth.  But with all the kitchen painting I'm doing, I didn't want to take a break from painting the kitchen to paint a model, so I took this out to see what I could see.

 

I thought about starting an armor, artillery, and soft-skin thread.  Not a build thread, just a picture posting thread to see what others are doing.  Rightly or wrongly, I also thought that was being a bit presumptuous, so I decided to post my break-in-the-action here.

 

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Merkava Mk I.  Since I broke this out I detailed the mortar and replaced the bustle's brass rod with styrene rod.

 

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Made resin hinges for the port headlight door, driver's hatch stop, and built the .50 caliber base and ammo box holder. 

 

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OOPS!  Almost lost a track link.  Detailed the loaders machine gun mount and built the cradle.  New styrene tension bars for the turret stowage hatches.

 

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Rebuilt the ball and chain.  Drilled a hole in the ball and used .010 solder as a loop connector.  Earlier I had just super-glued the ball to the chain.  Detailed the tow cable retainers.

 

Thanks for putting up with my narishkeit.

Sincerely,

Mark

 

 

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  • 2 months later...

Going nuts as usual, eh? I've recently developed a renewed taste for the Mustang, so I've bookmarked this as reference, though there's no way I'll go as nuts on mine (when the time comes) as you have on this one,... a bunch of Barracuda stuff, and that's about it.

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Thanks for stopping by, guys.  I did go a little overboard, Kevin, but it has been lots of fun, especially the second go-around.  This is a great kit, tho complicated even without all that I've done.  I'm glad you're thinking of giving it a go.

 

Thank you, Brother Bear.  Love your Falcon.

 

I haven't forgotten this build.  I've been having fun this summer working around the house painting the kitchen, cleaning the gutters and making gutter guards of my own design, making yard art, cleaning out the furnace condenser, rebuilding some furnace ducting, digging trenches, repairing drainage, and furnace condenser pipes, and doing landscaping.

 

You may recall that I recently put a call out for a Tamiya Spitfire Mk VIII.  Initially I wanted to build a Trop. MkVb.  I've wanted to build a clipped wing Med/Africa Theatre MKVb for the longest time.  Then thought to backdate a MkIX to a MkVb using the Tamiya MkIX and Hasegawa MkVb.  While looking thru my Aero Detail books I saw a clipped wing Med Theatre Mk. VIII.  That's when I put the call out and Frank (Daywalker) responded.  Thanks again, Frank.

 

For leisure I read the instruction booklet and studied the illustrations to familiarize myself with the kit.  As many of you are aware, because you have either built the kit or or are more familiar with it than I, the engine and bearers are separate from the body.

 

Although I had figured out a method to attach the engine and all of it's suspending parts to the firewall, it is a pain in the a$$!  Big time!  After seeing the Spitfire instructions I decided to look into removing the bearers from the fuselage so I could make an assembly similar to that of the Spitfire.

 

I've figured out a few things and am studying a few others.  The cowling behind the spinner back-plate and lower engine bearer must be glued to the fusalage first.  This stabilizes the front end.  Without these being glued together first, once I cut the side bearers from the fuselage I'll have unsupported parts.  It would be too late, and neigh impossible to align everything then.

 

The kit firewall fits into 3 points behind the instrument panel box.  So that can be aligned relatively easily.  The top bearer can be pin-mounted into a space found between the firewall and fuselage at the top bearer location.  The bottom bearer can be aligned with the bottom of the firewall.  The face of the wheel well can be aligned to the firewall so I can complete and connect the coolant and oil pipes.  The plastic removed from sawing can be replaced with .005 strip (I'll be using the JLC fine razor saw).

 

Unfortunately the bottom bearer is molded as part of the lower cowl which would need to be removed along a curved panel line.  The removed plastic can be replaced with .005 strip.  But the conundrum is cutting along that panel line.  The best thing would be to score the panel line instead of cutting.  But at the moment the idea is giving me the willys.

 

So I shall see what I can see.

Thanks for stopping by.

Sincerely,

Mark

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