airscale Posted February 5, 2017 Share Posted February 5, 2017 Jeez - another one I have been dying to see, and boy was it worth the wait! Mark it looks utterly convincing, a superb paintjob really sets off all the work you put into the details I only wish I could paint like that, (and weather like that, and build like that etc etc).. superb! Peter dodgem37 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted February 5, 2017 Author Share Posted February 5, 2017 'Spectacular paint and weathering.' Thank you, Brother Bear. This is a whole new ball game for me. I don't consider the painting phase to be a strength. I've not attempted something like this before. Nor have I seen this, what I call it, subtractive technique before. In the past I've just painted and washed and called it a day. So, I really don't know what I'm doing. I'm guessing and problem-solving. 'The panel lines have taken on a whole new look after running the needle through them' I don't disagree with that! At first I ran a scalpel over the panel line. But this only chipped the blade side, so I needed to do both sides of the line to have both line edges chipped. The blade also had a tendency to skip and scratch the top coat. Which is OK, because I would fill in the angle between panel and scratch line with Aluminum paint and it would appear as having flaked off. But I considered it an ERROR!, ERROR! WILL ROBINSON!! As the saying goes. So to cut down both errors and time consumption I turned to a needle. Applied pressure determined the amount of chipping. More pressure, more chipping. But I had to be careful with the pressure, because I wanted to chip to Aluminum, and not to plastic. I knew Gloss Coating the Aluminum would create a barrier between the Aluminum and top coats and allow the top coats to chip to the Gloss. A smooth surface doesn't easily allow paint adherence, as does a rough surface. So I knew the top coat would chip off of the Gloss. The issue, as always, is control. It took me a couple of times to realize my Gloss coat wasn't glossy enough and I wasn't minimizing the adhesive qualities of the tape enough to control the flaking. But by the end, which was the Campaign striping, I had solved that problem. At least enough that I could live with the results I've attained. There does comes a point of no return to ones efforts, and another strip down wasn't worth the effort. Besides, I'm running out of White paint. 'Wow - that needle-along-the-panel-line trick is one to remember, it looks great! Super stuff Mark.' Thank you, Jim. I've got a couple of ideas going on with this weathering technique, the reason for the extra (50/50) top coat of paint. But primer, Aluminum, Gloss, and top coat will do. The longer you allow the top coat to dry and harden, the more chipping will occur. Give the top coat at least 1 day to dry and harden. If you notice the needle pushing the paint out of the panel line creating a ridge on either side of the panel line edge instead of chipping it then the paint isn't dry or hard enough. Give it another day. 'geeze Mark. beautifully executed on all counts.' Thank you, Rick! 'the wheel well detail just pops out and pokes my eyes!' Ha! I hope that's good! 'Jeez - another one I have been dying to see, and boy was it worth the wait! Mark it looks utterly convincing, a superb paintjob really sets off all the work you put into the details :)' Thank you, Peter. I'm really glad it looks convincing. In spite of many things, positive confirmation of the application one's ideas and efforts is always good. I have never done a complex finish in the past, I haven't seen results from a technique like this in the past, tho it may be out there and I haven't found it, so this is new ground for me. Believe me, your and everyone's man hugs make me feel good about this. 'I only wish I could paint like that, (and weather like that, and build like that etc etc)..' Peter, you make me laugh. Out Loud! It's all an experiment. Isn't it? 'superb!' Thank you, Brother. Thank you ALL for looking and liking. Sincerely, Mark ClumsyDude 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck540z3 Posted February 5, 2017 Share Posted February 5, 2017 Very good and BRAVE painting Mark! When you get that dull coat on that heavily weathered finish it will really pop and look the part. I'm really looking forward to seeing that bad-ass engine and all the goodies you have created around it. I can see the oil stains already. Cheers, Chuck dodgem37 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martinnfb Posted February 5, 2017 Share Posted February 5, 2017 Looks awesome Mark and I am ready for more Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted February 6, 2017 Author Share Posted February 6, 2017 'Very good . . . ' Thank you, Chuck. '. . . BRAVE . . ' Or stupid. 'I'm really looking forward to seeing that bad-ass engine and all the goodies you have created around it.' Ha! That bad-ass engine requires a re-build. I finished it up and didn't like the way it looked so I stripped it down and took it apart. I soaked it in Windex and took a tooth brush to it. It's next to the tail wheel door closing mechanism awaiting re-build. I was sad, but it looked bad. Thank you all for looking in and liking. Sincerely, Mark chuck540z3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brahman104 Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 Oh no really Mark? I thought the engine was awesome! At least we can be content in the knowledge that if you feel you need to improve on what you've already done, the end result will be certainly something to behold! Craig dodgem37 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted February 11, 2017 Author Share Posted February 11, 2017 'I thought the engine was awesome!' Thank you, Craig. 'At least we can be content in the knowledge that if you feel you need to improve on what you've already done, the end result will be certainly something to behold!' I don't know if I can improve on the scratch building aspect, but I hope to. It was the painting I didn't like. An unfortunate by product of removing the paint was also the removal of the added on parts. I'm just hoping that twice will be enough. Have been inching along. I would like to complete the fuselage, canopy, and wings before I move to the engine. This is how I aligned the numbers. Would love to have a tape with post-it adhesive qualities. The star was relatively easy to apply. Left side of the disc touched the wing fillet. Lower right of star aligned with panel line. Ran over panel lines with various pointed dental implements then sanded. Canopy Lock/Rail Roller. 4mm length. Hope this is right. I don't know if it's supposed to be exposed. Starboard. Port. Too far forward. Too bad. All decaling is done. Chose to decal instead of home-made stencils. Have had too much aggravation from adhesive backed products pulling up the top coats. Port fuselage. Port wing, top. Starboard fuselage. Starboard wing, top. Port wing, bottom. Starboard wing, bottom. Top side. Just some different angles: Have learned a couple of things from all of this business for next time. Firstly, locate a clear matte on the aluminum. Gloss has poor adherence qualities for whatever is painted on top. A matte should help with adherence because it's rough. Hopefully this will help control flaking, and still create enough of a barrier between the top coats and the aluminum so when I sand down thru the top layers I don't sand thru the aluminum. Secondly, DON'T CHIP UNTIL AFTER DECALS!! A lot of problem-solving could have been alleviated if I had not chipped along the way. The chipping weakened the uniform layer. Whenever an adhesive was put down it pulled the paint up at chipped edges making flaking difficult to control. Even with a top coat of gloss to seal everything. I couldn't minimize the adhesive qualities of even Tamiya tape enough, which we know has soft adhesive qualities. Post-its have the best and most soft adhesive qualities. I've got to get myself some Post-it-like-adhesive adhesive tape, if such a thing exists. Thirdly, use a paper stencil with light adhesive tape as a fastener for the camo scheme instead of tac. If tac is used than gloss first. Tac, in my case, old or new, left a clear adhesive residue on a matte/flat surface which exposed itself to sanding. We'll see how these ideas work for the Hungarian Bf109. Thank you for looking and liking. Sincerely, Mark TorbenD, MikeMaben, Rick K and 9 others 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaneBramage Posted February 11, 2017 Share Posted February 11, 2017 A thing of beauty! Wow. dodgem37 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted February 11, 2017 Share Posted February 11, 2017 Amazing work as always, Mark! Terrific attention to detail, and your usual skilful execution. Kev dodgem37 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted February 12, 2017 Share Posted February 12, 2017 Brother Bear Right with Kev, your attention to deal is amazing. I've been a decal man so long, it's nearly impossible for me to change. I always trim the clear carrier fill away and place each number and letter one at a time. of course, my positioning is no where near as prices as yours and I'm taking notes on using tape to line up the decals. I've been pretty lucky with in not having a problem of the Tamiya tape lifting paint or even Alcald or AK. I go to great lengths in de-tacking the tape to almost the point of it won't stick. Right with you in hoping someone just might bring out a tape with the same tack as Post-it's! Your decal work and weathering is absolutely perfect and I just can't see how it can be any better. Nice work on the canopy/rail rollers - they look just fine and if you didn't point out one was a bit closer to the canopy edge, I would never had known Absolutely incredible work Keep 'em coming Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martinnfb Posted February 12, 2017 Share Posted February 12, 2017 As Peter said. the detail is superb . I am little surprise about the engine overhaul, it seemed to be all right, I mean pretty spectacular. I understand your drive for perfection, that's what makes your builds so exciting.....and waiting anxiously for another update. Cheers Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rafju Posted August 13, 2017 Share Posted August 13, 2017 Hello Mark Hope everything is ok from your side Any news about this World champion' model? raf - just curious dodgem37 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted August 13, 2017 Share Posted August 13, 2017 Brother Bear Eagerly waiting for your next update Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F`s are my favs Posted August 13, 2017 Share Posted August 13, 2017 I don't know why, but it kinda looks to me like a paper plane... )))) excuse me is this is a little too offensive. I mean it looks good, bold, rugged, maybe it's because of the contrasting camouflage... dodgem37 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rafju Posted August 14, 2017 Share Posted August 14, 2017 Hi Mark Regarding your outstanding work on #256 post http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=38388&p=644617 and because like a lot of ours I'm interested in the functionning and mechanical détails of that bird, I just found this diagram through the SAM book (MDF series), to complete your explaination: And through the Zoukei SWS concept note #4 the cabin ventilation: Very cool drawings, but if someone get them of a better quality, do not hesitate... Raf dodgem37 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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