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Tamiya P-51D, Sinai, 1956, with Reposted Images


dodgem37

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Thank you, Jay.  Your 'F' is stupendous!  I love what you've done with it.

 

Thank you, Harvey.  I know how you feel.  I see stuff done by others and I just don't know how they do it.  Tom, both Peters, Loic, Wolf, Chuck, Oliver, Richard come to mind.  I don't know if it's beyond you, you do pretty danged good work yourself.

 

Sincerely,

Mark

Edited by dodgem37
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Well, I have to add my name to the list. The desire, the research, the attention to detail, the abilities and skills as well as the patience you have developed are incredible. Folks like you, Chuck Sawyer, Wolf Buddee and others have continued to amaze me and have really challenged me to up my game. Thanks for sharing your research, tools, methods and skills with the rest of us.

 

Bud  

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I couldn't say it better than Budman. Mark, your persistence, patience, attention and joy of research is exemplary. The results speak for themselves! Love what you have done so far. Great details!

Edited by Tomek
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Thank you, Bud, thank you, Tomek for your praise, comments, and comparisons.  I'm just glad to meet folks as geeky as me who are interested in the same stuff I am, unlike my wife!

 

Sincerely,

Mark

Edited by dodgem37
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Still working in the engine compartment.

DSCN7619_zpsngnqpa7l.jpg

Added the right side Filtered Air Door link.  The forward engine-bearing structure curves down and touches the top of the duct.  This interferes with the ability to bridge this space with rod.

 

DSCN7620_zpsot9qqptq.jpg

Link similar to left side.

 

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Same here.

 

DSCN7623_zpsmy1nvquo.jpg

The white burned-out blob on the coolant line is the Oil Temperature Bulb (Resistance Type).  That's weird, this is a coolant line.  I'll double-check, but  it is the only line in the neighborhood.  Anyway, it is supposed to curve upward, not downward as I have it.  I'll just look into this further.

 

DSCN7624_zpsjqc80d2z.jpg

The connection into the right rocker head is the Tachometer Generator.  Also, I removed the yellow Tamiya tape I had used as connections and cut and spliced heat-shrink tubing and applied it wherever I had the tape.  Here it is on the Magneto/Distribution Conduit connections.  Just under the Tachometer is a white rod, that is the hex rod to which the Manifold Pressure Line inserts.  Eagle eyes will notice I lost a few linkages.  Oh well.

 

DSCN7628_zpsfev0xtrv.jpg

I worked on all of the previous junk while I was figuring this out.  These are the coolant connections for which Wolf provided imagery.  Thank you, Brother.  The front of the connection has a rod projecting from it.  This ties into the holes I drilled into the tank, thus pin-mounting the location for structural support.  Went wild and added cut heat-shrink tube with strip band connectors.  Those with eagle eyes will notice some white toward the bottom front.  The kit pin connection broke off and I had to make a new one.  Not a fun chore.  Alignment was ridiculously critical.

 

DSCN7626_zpssfu5ag5v.jpg

Last but not least, all together now.

 

Thank you one and all.

Sincerely,

Mark

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Guest Peterpools

Brother Bear

I only wish I had eagle eye ... so very far from it.

Absolutely outstanding and the details down to the tiniest ones are unbelievable!

Completely engrossed in the project.

Keep 'em comijng

Peter

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Thank you, Mark.  The engine bay is turning out better than I ever expected when I started this project.

 

Thank you, Jamme.  It seems like ages since I've seen you.  I'm glad you stopped by to say hello.

 

Thank you, Brother Bear.  I have to admit, I was being a smarty pants by trying to get 10 parts, like Wolf, put together for the coolant lines.

 

Thank you, Mal.  Now that I'm so close to finishing, probably still a month, tho!, I've finally been thinking about the painting and weathering.

 

At times, Kevin!  Thanks for stopping by.

 

Thank you, Craig.  Easy-squeezy for the control link flats.  I squeeze the end in a small pair of flat-nosed pliers, then trim and sand to shape.

 

The real test, if one can call it a test, is to have them parallel to each other.  For that, after I squeeze, trim, and shape one end, I lie the rod flat on the adhesive side of some tape, with the flat end parallel to my desktop, lift the other end with a tweezer and press that end flat.  Works almost every time!

 

Thank you, Jerry.  That is a good question.  I haven't seen Geoff about for a while.  I hope he's well.

 

Thank you everyone.

Sincerely,

Mark

Edited by dodgem37
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Hey...great builds take time and joy.......i know i know...my build span is 3-4 month up to a year....and then we only talk 2 models at the time max at the sime time (that means 3 moth each to 1 year)

 

So hey... take time and enjoy..that is what building is about.

 

/Mal

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