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Cpig

1/32 Tamiya P-51D

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Great progress. I know there was a D Old Crow in NM, and a B in OD/NG, but wasn't sure if there was a D in OD/NG, anyway it's looking classy.

 

Sure was, that NM D model is the same aircraft before they stripped the green off. I'd attach a link to a photo shot in 1944 but I'm flying across the country today.

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Thanks William

 

Heading out to get some Old Crow-love your build!

Dan

 

Thanks Dan, I think I may have to get a bottle myself to go along with this build.

 

Been gone for a few weeks but should be able to make some progress now that I'm back. I just picked up a new Harder and Steenbeck Infinity airbrush that I'm itchin to try out.

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Thank you Maru.

 

Picked up a new airbrush - Harder & Steenbeck Infinity. The airbrush itself is a work of art, just beautiful; I love the needle adjustment at the rear so I can control the flow of paint. I still like my Iwata but this brush is great for hairline detail and more.

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Made a paint mask for the checkerboard pattern on the nose. First, I masked and painted solid yellow background, then I positioned the first half of the mask.

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Next I postioned the second half of the mask.

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Also made a mask for the prop spinner.

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Applied red paint.

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And done - looks so much better than a decal.

6947916091_00105f1ffd_b.jpg

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'I am very curious how you guys take a 3D subject and project that into a 2D mask that fits'

1. Measure the forward circumference. Use a strip of tape.

2. Determine the back location and measure that circumference. The same.

3. Determine number of squares.

4. Divide each strip into the number of squares. Back strip of tape squares will be wider.

5. Draw 2 horizontal parallel lines one apart from the other in the dimension equal to your front to back dimension.

6. Locate and draw your vertical and horizontal center line.

7. Measure squares' width outward from each side of centerline on top and bottom line only.

8. Connect the first point on the top line to the first point on the bottom line and continue this method until completed.

9. You will have made an even numbered checkerboard for your nose.

 

Sincerely,

Mark

Edited by dodgem37

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Guest Peterpools

Joe

Enjoy your new air brush, sure looks like a beauty.

With you on the mask issue - looks fantastic.

Peter

:speak_cool: :speak_cool:

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Very cool, I am very curious how you guys take a 3D subject and project that into a 2D mask that fits. Neat stuff.

 

Ron

 

 

I use a combination of what Mark/Dodgem said, along with Adobe Illustrator and some trial and error. This particular mask would not work if you made it a perfect circle since the mustang nose is less rounded on the top and sides than on the bottom and top left/right. This is where the trial and error comes into play, I kept cutting, test fitting and redoing the angles until the mask laid down by itself exactly where it was supposed to go. It's hard to tell in the picture but the the actual mask (not the outside edges but the checkerboard pattern inside) is flatter on the top and sides.

 

 

Joe

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Peter, thanks for the compliments, you need to get going on your build.... slacker:)

 

Applied kill cross mask. I've seen several decal versions of these and it seems like each one has a different balkenkreuz / cross style and/or color. I've studied the actual photos of Old Crow and I believe they are the simple hakenkreuz style painted in solid black. Also, here's a photo for Kagemusha of the Green P-51D "Old Crow". In late 1944, this aircraft was stripped down to bare metal to become the "Old Crow" that you see depicted more often. (Same bird).

 

6806520636_a51e8a8108.jpg

 

 

Select kill cross mask

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Lightly burnish low tack masking tape over crosses

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Peel masking tape up gently, revealing clean cross mask. Repeat if necessary

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Apply mask. Gloss coat is not required but is recommended before masking. It helps seal the mask better to prevent bleed under and paint wicking

when paint is airbrushed too thin or too heavy. Also gives you insurance in case you need to erase any painting mistakes.

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Bring er to the paint booth; use light coats (don't forget additional masking to contain overspray)

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Finished

6952612053_4afdbbca64_b.jpg

Edited by Cpig

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Thanks and sort of Kage; Bud Anderson was known for hand painting his tires to give them the white wall appearance.

 

A few shots of the Old Crow emblem mask:

 

Used masking tape to lift entire OLD CROW mask off in one piece. This method keeps the center portions of the O, D, and R properly positioned.

6807008576_a35a144175_b.jpg

 

Positioned complete mask

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Removed masking tape, leaving complete mask in place

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Used Xacto to remove just the portions of the letters that will be sprayed white

6807010162_055ecd300f_b.jpg

 

Made a more realistic, slightly weathered/aged blend of white using 25 parts white to 1 part yellow and just a touch of black (tip of a paintbrush dabbed in black). Sprayed very light coats

to ensure nothing gets under mask in areas where seal may be weak (over hinges, panel lines, etc....)

6953124879_480b9b8cce_b.jpg

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