Jump to content

German twin : Vac Do-335 nightfighter


Recommended Posts

Great work on capturing the subtle details so far Loic. A Million little steps at a time will pay off in the end. I'm taking the same steps and your work is keeping me going =D


Excellent progress my friend!


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Paul, Matt,


thanks a lot for the kind words my friends.


I had a couple of hard days at work this week (but have a day off today)so I was not able to make much progress.


I focused my attention on detailling the reduction gear box.


The pics are not quite good but that will have to do guys as I was not able to do any better... :closedeyes:


mounted on a pencil:




dryfitted on the engine block:








It is not perfect but not too bad either me think.


Thanks for looking in ;)

Edited by Loic
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bloody good, Loic!

The engine will be be pretty tedious with all the detailing, but if you keep such high standards as you showed in your last photo, the result will be worthwhile all the effort. Keep up the good work!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks very much to all of you following this build, getting such feedback is very encouraging to me.



I have some "contacts" (not with grey matter thought) but I think it is much too early to decide on anything yet.


Thanks a million guys ;)

Edited by Loic
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Jamme for the kind words too ;)


Well, I have benn working on the super charger yesterday and this morning.

I have really been wondering how to takle this piece as there obviously are several possible ways to go.


I decided to go with the one that might not be the quickest/easiest but it is the one that gives the best results I belive.


Here we go...


I started with the centre piece from a 6mm tube. I cut a round piece to go on the top of one end and add the compressor blades fron thin styren. This is the best way I found to start with a near perfect round compressor and allow to use the tube to guide sanding operation.


I then glued a thin stripe around the end of the tubing and check that the compressor blades unit fits in it.


Then, I used laminated styren to build the main body of the charger. I drilled holes from several diameter in those so that the off set given by the stripe of styren around the tube gives positive fitting.


Then, I started to add the structural details of the center piece of the body. Working these before adding the compressor blade unit and the air channel/duct allows to sand the front face on a flat area and get everything at level.


Here are the different parts (separatly and dry fit):







Edited by Loic
Link to comment
Share on other sites



Then, I moved to the air duct/channel. I started from a piece of aluminium tube and did flatten one end.

I shaped it around a piece of round styren and using pliers.


A rather heavy adjustment process is required her as this duct is not "flat" around the main body. The more it goes the closer to the engine block it is. Also add to use some very thin shims to have a good body to duct joint.


Here are the results:




The duct joints are made from styren stripes.


BEfore going any further, one have to be sure everything is ok cause when he starts to had the details, it becomes a 1000 time harder to correct the job.


That is what it looks like with the blade unit:




Time to add some details like blots & nuts:




The back side was worked out the same way thought it is much less complicated. The initial tube that was used to help hold the assembly was finaly cut:





Well, could have been worst I think.


What I find difficult with this engine build is that because it is intended to be casted (at least from me), it is not possible I think to use primer to check your work. With a regular build, you work your way through and if any doubt, you check and correct... this is not possible here, everything must be neat and near perfect at first shot. The corrections you eventually have to apply are very difficult to check out. The CA glue which is used to fill joints for exemple looks black on the pics. They may seam to be "holes" or "gaps" but they are not. On the real thing, it is translucent and that is no more help...


That is a rather different (yet very interresting) approach to more standard kit assembly.

It is tough but I am liking it ;)


Thanks for stopping by guys !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Create New...