LSP_Kevin Posted December 2, 2011 Author Share Posted December 2, 2011 Christian, Mike - thanks for checking in. The lower wing and wheel bay on this one has taken me way longer than I anticipated or planned, but I think it has turned out OK. A few of my usual mistakes and wobbly bits in there, but there's no point getting too hung up on that stuff. I still have to sort out the landing gear attachment points, and I musn't forget the work needed to accommodate the outboard cannon! Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted December 3, 2011 Author Share Posted December 3, 2011 No, I was alluding to the inboard cannon alignment, and whether you might need to move the holes in the leading edge... Ah, yes. I was aware of that, but wasn't going to worry about it until after I sorted out the fit of the upper wings. They don't come close to meeting their lower counterparts at this point, so I'll have to remove lots of resin and plastic to make this happen - including all around the area of the cannon holes. Once I've got that sorted, I'll attend to those pesky holes. Thanks for reminding me Steve. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted December 17, 2011 Author Share Posted December 17, 2011 Well, I guess it's time for an update! Haven't had a lot of time for modelling over the past couple of weeks, but I've managed to chip away at the cockpit:The seat's just sitting there in this next shot. I still need to put together my last set of seat belts from Radu and get them installed.A dodgy photo of the top section of the instrument panel. Still not sure how I'm going to affix this to the inside top of the fuselage, but I guess I'll figure it out.The Verlinden set originally came with a printed acetate sheet for the instruments, but it was missing in this set, so I substituted some MDC instrument decals, which were a pretty close fit in the end. I was hoping to use some airscale examples, but they were all way too large; I'm wondering whether my set has been mis-labelled as 1/32, and is really 1/24.As you can see, I kinda suck at cockpit detailing and painting, but it should look adequate once installed in the cockpit.Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ron Posted December 18, 2011 Share Posted December 18, 2011 As you can see, I kinda suck at cockpit detailing and painting, Kev Really? what's wrong with it? I'd be really happy with this if it was my work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted December 18, 2011 Author Share Posted December 18, 2011 Really? what's wrong with it? I'd be really happy with this if it was my work? Thanks for the encouragement Ron. I guess I'm just feeling a little bit inadequate in that department compared to what I've been seeing on here lately. Don't get me wrong, I feel like I've improved exponentially as a modeller since joining LSP, but most of that improvement has been on the construction side of the fence, rather than the painting and finishing side. But hey, I've gotta suck at something, right? All jokes aside, one of my modelling goals for 2012 is to experiment more with my painting and finishing techniques, take a few more risks and generally improve in that area. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted December 18, 2011 Share Posted December 18, 2011 I dont know Kev, all that looks pretty sweet to me. Especially considering the amount of details/scratch-building you are having to do here. Cheers, Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattlow Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 Looking good Kev Just in case you're not aware, the part of the IP you show has to be bent prior to fitting - so the uppermost part (with ammo counters) stands forward of the lower part... just in case.... I have a sheet of Airscale instrument decals (for post war allied a/c) and also found them too large to fit, in my case, the Revell Hunter panel dials. I suspect that the decals are made with reference to the real thing whilst in a kit everything is often scaled down so that everything can fit into what is essentially a non-scale space...? Anyway, looking good. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted December 19, 2011 Author Share Posted December 19, 2011 Just in case you're not aware, the part of the IP you show has to be bent prior to fitting - so the uppermost part (with ammo counters) stands forward of the lower part... just in case.... I did figure that out Matt, but only after I glued it in place! The Verlinden instructions are appalling, and now my cockpit looks rather silly (it's all glued inside the fuselage now). Ah well, live and learn. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ripaman Posted December 20, 2011 Share Posted December 20, 2011 Thanks for the encouragement Ron. I guess I'm just feeling a little bit inadequate in that department compared to what I've been seeing on here lately. Don't get me wrong, I feel like I've improved exponentially as a modeller since joining LSP, but most of that improvement has been on the construction side of the fence, rather than the painting and finishing side. But hey, I've gotta suck at something, right? All jokes aside, one of my modelling goals for 2012 is to experiment more with my painting and finishing techniques, take a few more risks and generally improve in that area. Kev Hi Kev, your quote saying you suck at painting (which I'am not sure why it looks good to me) well so do I!! dreading that time for me on my build so we should both get better in the new year. Regards Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted December 24, 2011 Author Share Posted December 24, 2011 I find myself with a bit of a dilemma folks, and I'm hoping you guys can help me out. According to the information in the Eagle Cals documentation for 'Red 4', it sported the earlier flat canopy, rather than the more familiar bulged version. The Hasegawa kit only comes with the bulged canopy, unfortunately. Simple, I thought; I'll just use the early canopy from my old-tool 190A kit (which I'm not using due to it being the subject of my 190S conversion). Not so fast! It doesn't even come close to fitting the sliding section on this kit. It's much shallower, and the angle of the rear edge is much steeper. I couldn't at first understand such a large discrepancy, until I looked at the Eagle Cals drawings more closely. It turns out that the difference between the earlier flat canopy and the later bulged canopy amount to far more than the bulge itself. The flat canopy is shallower, and also longer, and with a much steeper cut-off angle at the rear. I'm flabbergasted! Never noticed that before! They're totally different canopies in almost all dimensions, with different rear sliding fairings to match. So, my dilemma is, how the heck do I get to an early flat canopy from here? Suggestions welcome! Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loic Posted December 24, 2011 Share Posted December 24, 2011 Kev, if I understand correctly, the flat type canopy is different and does not fit the bulged frame/slider. What about using the complete flat type and its very own slider on your build? Will you keep the canopy open? If so, an eventual small difference in shape with the wind screen wont be noticed... It is a bit cheating but it may work. An other option is to use your spare flat canopy to make a (corrected) master of it and vac a new canopy... HTP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted December 24, 2011 Author Share Posted December 24, 2011 An other option is to use your spare flat canopy to make a (corrected) master of it and vac a new canopy... Thanks for your input mate. I think this is indeed what I'll have to resort to. I'll need to carve a form for the entire sliding section, vacform it in clear plastic, and then trim, paint and install. Unfortunately I don't have any vacforming skills or equipment, so I may need to put this on hold until I can sort something out. There's still plenty to do on the build until then, but this has suddenly become much more complicated than I'd planned for! I guess I could cheat and just use the bulged canopy as supplied in the kit, but I feel I ought to try to get this one right. Once my camera's batteries are recharged, I'll upload some images to clarify the problem. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted December 24, 2011 Author Share Posted December 24, 2011 OK, finally got some batteries back into my camera, so I hope the following shots will help clarify the problem. Here you can see the old-tool canopy from the 190A kit applied to the sliding section of this kit:As you can see, it doesn't fit at all. It's both too shallow and too long. Here's a shot of the flat canopy posed with the bulged canopy:I think I've come up with an alternative strategy to vacforming an entire new piece. If I can form a new rear section of the correct length and with the correct angle at its forward face, I might be able to graft the existing flat canopy on to it without having to resort to vacforming. If that doesn't produce an acceptable result, I could always use it as a form for vacforming a single piece.Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automaton Posted December 24, 2011 Share Posted December 24, 2011 (edited) It's looking good, Kevin, though like a lot of work. Two thoughts on the canopy issue: First, do you still have the rear canopy part from the kit on which you're doing the 190s conversion, perhaps it could be adapted. Second, unless I'm mistaken, the flat canopy was always used with the simpler head armor bracing (just the brace instead of the "fairing" type structure behind it). If it's going to end up with just the brace structure, modifying the existing part to the correct depth and angle might not be that hard. And regarding the size of the Airscale instrument decals, I agree with Matt-I think they're scaled to 1/32 (or 1/24, etc. as the case may be) to the actual size of the 1:1 instrument. It's kinda the same problem you run into with having to make engines, etc. slightly underscale in some cases in order to make them actually fit in the model. Regards; Automaton Edited December 24, 2011 by automaton Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted December 24, 2011 Author Share Posted December 24, 2011 Two thoughts on the canopy issue: First, do you still have the rear canopy part from the kit on which you're doing the 190s conversion, perhaps it could be adapted. Bingo! Why the heck didn't I think of that! So simple, so obvious. The only challenge will be blending the glassware with the plastic frame, but without moulding a new piece entirely in clear plastic, this was always going to be an issue. Thank you automaton! Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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