Guest Peterpools Posted July 5, 2011 Share Posted July 5, 2011 Ron Thanks for the heads up and advice. It will surely follow your lead. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 THE FARMINGDALE JUG HASEGAWA P-47D ‘NOSE ART’ PT 5 Learning How To Do A Natural Metal Finish Time for some experimentation. As work is proceeding on the Big P&W Radial, I needed to figure out how to produce a NMF in a hurry, since the interior of the cowling and engine bay is all aluminum. All the cowling parts were cleaned up, primed with Tamiya Gary Primer and then finished off with a gloss black under coat. I wasn’t sure how smooth the gloss black had to be, so half the panels were rubbed out and other half left as the paint dried. My standard procedure for a gloss finish is to use either Tamiya or Model Master Acrylic paints, starting at a 1:1 mix and then continuing to thin the paint out to a 1:2 and lastly a 1:3 mix. Acrylics dry fast, so I could keep working. Compressor pressure was 20 PSI. My preference is for Model Master Acrylics but I didn’t have a bottle of gloss black, so I went with Tamiya. After letting the paint set up for about an hour, I rubbed out half the parts: 1,500 wet 2,000 wet Lastly with the Novus 3 step system. I first sprayed on the rear bulkhead with Alclad II Aluminum and then buffed it out. It wasn’t as metallic or reflective as I wanted and I would use it as my base exterior NMF later on in the build. I re-spayed the firewall with Chrome as well as the rest of the parts. Once I buffed them out, Oh Baby, just what I was looking for. Please let me know if I'm on the right track. Thanks Peter The various parts painted with Tamiya Gloss Black and left to dry for about an hour. The interior for the carb area. Starting to show a shine. The cowl lip will be sanded out and re-primed later on when finishing then entire cowl assembly The firewall and a few of the other cowling parts. Most won't be seen once the Big P&W is installed but knowing it is there, makes me feel like I did my homework Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Sheep One Posted July 18, 2011 Share Posted July 18, 2011 Peter looking good there. I like what you've done with the front office. Looking forward to more. You doing video of this build? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRutman Posted July 18, 2011 Share Posted July 18, 2011 This is turning out to be a great looking Jug.And it's nice to see a non German Hasegawa kit being built here for once. J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted July 23, 2011 Share Posted July 23, 2011 THE FARMINGDALE JUG HASEGAWA P-47D ‘NOSE ART’ PT 6 THE BIG, BAD P&W R 2800 Time to tackle the Big, Bad Pratt & Whitney R2800R Radial. My intention and goal was to build a presentable and reasonable version of the R2800 without spending months detailing engine, since the cowl wouldn’t be open and the engine would only ne seen from the front and behind the massive four blade prop. Of course, since coming back into the hobby, I wanted to try my hand at detailing an engine and this would be the perfect opportunity. Step One would be this build, just learning the basics and figuring how to do things in a logical way and detail only what would be seen. First up was doing some research on the Big Radial and photos and information is abundant on line. Initially, after purchasing the MDC cockpit kit, I followed that up with a Vector R2800 kit. Gorgeous to say the least but most of it wouldn’t be seen on this build. I decided to combine parts from the hasegawa kit and parts from the Vector kit and take my best shot. After assembling the basic engine as per instructions, I decided it needed a bit more detail and definition. First to go was the kit crank case and wiring harness ring. It just looked a bit chunky to me. I reworked the corresponding Vector parts, dry fitted them and discovered the fit was as good as I originally though. The rear of the crankcase was sanded flat and smooth, the prop shaft hole drilled out and it now seemed to fit. The Wiring harness was another story. It was semi close but no cigar. I drilled out all the mounting holes for the spark plug wires and discovered they were one short. A bit of re-working and all was now well. The kit supplied cowl support ring was a little dull looking and missing some stiffeners, which I added from sheet plastic. While the inside of the cowl is aluminum, the cowl support former was yellow chromate. Painted and dry brushed with dark gray Model Master Acrylic paint. The stiffener plates were given a treatment of an oil wash to highlight the details.. Drilling out and gluing up all the spark plug wires was a tedious task, but once done and painted, was well worth the effort and time. After everything had set up, I decided to test fit the engine inside the cowl, which is a four piece affair and is next up on the to do list. It’s just temp glued and tape together right now. All paints are Model Master Acrylics except the Aluminum finish, which is Alclad II. Part fit so far has been very good and the Jug is starting to take on its classic look; one tough, mean looking guy! Suggestions and comments would be much appreciated. Enjoy Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marion Posted July 24, 2011 Share Posted July 24, 2011 Peter, great job on your interior. How did you paint/finish the seat belts? they look great. thanks, Marion Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted July 24, 2011 Share Posted July 24, 2011 Thanks Marion. I had a lot of seatbelt/harness combinations to use, including two sets that were included with the MDC cockpit set. I decided to use the fantastic set offered by RB Productions RB-P32008 (G). After I installed the set, I painted the belts with a few thinned out coats of a hand mixed color of tan and khaki. Then a light oil wash of lamp black. When dry, I followed up with a very thinned out oil wash around all the details on the belts. Hope that helps. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marion Posted July 24, 2011 Share Posted July 24, 2011 Thanks Marion. I had a lot of seatbelt/harness combinations to use, including two sets that were included with the MDC cockpit set. I decided to use the fantastic set offered by RB Productions RB-P32008 (G). After I installed the set, I painted the belts with a few thinned out coats of a hand mixed color of tan and khaki. Then a light oil wash of lamp black. When dry, I followed up with a very thinned out oil wash around all the details on the belts. Hope that helps. Peter thanks Peter, I really appreciate your reply and I am going to try your technique. Marion Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted July 24, 2011 Share Posted July 24, 2011 Marion You shouldn't have any problems at all. Just use a few light coats. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ron Posted July 24, 2011 Share Posted July 24, 2011 Peter, looking good. Normally I would not mention anything about this as I don't want to portray myself as a details snob, but seeing you started this thread mentioning you are building this as a contest build I thought I would point it out. The plug wires look good in red but in reality they are covering in a fine mesh that seems to get a patina closer to a brownish gray. RLM 02 is a pretty good match. I have several engine pics I've taken of various T-bolts at Duxford I can send you if you wish. Here is a pic I found on the net. Also as a heads up, the flaps in the kit have a molded in step on the top of them so they blend into the wing when mounted up. If you are mounting the flaps in the down position this step should be filled and complete smoothed out. I only found out about this point AFTER building this kit twice! Anyway I hope you don't mind me pointing this out. Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted July 24, 2011 Share Posted July 24, 2011 (edited) Ron Greatly appreciate the information on the wires and the flap step. The engine and cowl still need some work and are not glued in place yet. Will absolutely correct the wires this week. The photo sure shows the correct color. Any additional photos would be appreciated a well. I am planning on having the flaps in the down position and will fill in the step. Any chance of posting a photo or two, so I get it right? Thanks again for the information and keeping me on the straight and narrow path. Peter Edited July 24, 2011 by Peterpools Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ron Posted July 24, 2011 Share Posted July 24, 2011 Sure, note there is a discoloration showing where the step is molded on the Hase flaps but there is no step. The flap skin is smooth Here is another engine pic. that I took. This is the Razor back being restored in Duxford. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 24, 2011 Share Posted July 24, 2011 Peter, your doing a bang up job so far ! I agree about the wiring, though. The step I didn't know about. I have been threatening to start mine for some time. Keep us posted. Love watching....Harv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted July 24, 2011 Share Posted July 24, 2011 Ron Thanks for the step photos and the extra shot of the engine. Sure will come in very handy. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ron Posted July 24, 2011 Share Posted July 24, 2011 Here is a Link to one of by builds here at LSP. You can see that I missed this flap detail and didn't fill it. It is clearly shown going along the leading edge of the flap. It is even more pronouced when I did this build. I wish I had known about it Anyway, HTH Keep up the great work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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