Fisher F9F-5 Panther

[Guest Peterpools]

Thanks Matt

Much appreciated.

That's my plan of attack and nothing like buying Green Stuff by the case!

Peter

[scvrobeson]

Thanks Matt

Much appreciated.

That's my plan of attack and nothing like buying Green Stuff by the case!

Peter

 

 

Is the fit that bad on it? Cause everything I've heard about Fisher kits have been great things, never really heard much about puttying. But then again, I enjoy filling and sanding, it's relaxing. Send me a limited run kit over a Tamiya one anyday. I usually use the Squadron White Putty though, I always find it easier to cover up when it comes time to prime and paint.

[Mr Creosote]

Peter

That is slick. I have to say that is some very nice work on the cockpit and wheel wells. It looks like you're in the shorts rows and close to being able to paint.

RD

[Guest Peterpools]

Thanks RD

Hopefully closing in on the painting stages but there is still a lot of work to go. This being my first resin kit, I need to try and figure things out as I go. Just giving thought on the best way to glue up the front windscreen and attaching the gear. All the wing pylons need to be cleaned up, a bit of detail added and set aside for painting. Hopefully this won't take more then a few weeks, as I normally only work on the weekends.

all in all, a great kit and a fun build.

Peter

Edited May 23, 2011 by Peterpools

[Guest Peterpools]

Hi Matt

Sorry I missed your post the other day. The fit really isn't that bad at all, just requires a bit more fussing and fitting then a Tamiya or Hasegawa kit. Of course, this being my first resin kit, I'm sailing in uncharted waters and learning as I'm going. I'm willing to bet a large part of the fit problems are my own makings but so far nothing that as been a real problem.

I've tried Squadron White as compared to Green and the White is a 'softer filler'. I've used it as a follow up, second coat filler after the Green Stuff but now that I'm hooked on Mr Surfacer 500, I haven't reached for the White in a while. Absolutely, White is easier to paint over then the Green.

Peter

[Rob Colvin]

No resin kit will ever fit like tamiya...LOL. I can say, as I have toyed with some resin kits, the Fisher panther is by far the best fitting resin kit I have ever worked with.....

 

As far as the gluing the wind screen...I did it with Future. My screen was a drop fit, so I test fitted the part many times and used a bit of future on a brush to set it and lightly brushed future around the screen...The future self leveled glossed up and it worked out pretty good. I figured this would do as no one thumbs the wind screen lol. I also used future to hold the the metal framing in the back of the canopy. I bent the metal to shape brushed just a little bit in the canopy to hold the metal. Once the it had dried, I dipped the entire canopy in future seal it up.

 

http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=32473&st=0&p=295260&hl=panther&fromsearch=1entry295260

http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=32604&st=0&p=296865&hl=panther&fromsearch=1entry296865

 

I used zap-a-gap (for the landing gear)....The gear has metal rods in them. When you complete the build, place the jet on a good solid base and do not move it lol...The weight of the resin causes the kit to wobble.

 

Great work.....I am eyeing a cougar myself...

 

 

Rob

[scvrobeson]

Hi Matt

Sorry I missed your post the other day. The fit really isn't that bad at all, just requires a bit more fussing and fitting then a Tamiya or Hasegawa kit. Of course, this being my first resin kit, I'm sailing in uncharted waters and learning as I'm going. I'm willing to bet a large part of the fit problems are my own makings but so far nothing that as been a real problem.

I've tried Squadron White as compared to Green and the White is a 'softer filler'. I've used it as a follow up, second coat filler after the Green Stuff but now that I'm hooked on Mr Surfacer 500, I haven't reached for the White in a while. Absolutely, White is easier to paint over then the Green.

Peter

 

 

Thanks Peter. I usually on't have a problem with the White Stuff, but I usually will seal any putty with Mr. Surfacer anyways, to really get everything smooth. I love Mr. Surfacer 500 as well, I use it for about 90% of my seam filling, and will only bust out the putty for big gaps, and I alternate between Squadron White, Bondo, Milliput, and Mr. Surfacer, just depending on what the gap needs. But usually everything will get a coat of Surfacer over the top.

 

 

Looks like a great kit though, I may have to try one of these Panther kits at some point. Looks awesome man! Keep up the great work!

 

 

Matt

[Guest Peterpools]

Rob

Your are absolutely right about the Panther fit and with my very limited recent building experience(The Panther is only my second kit after returning to the hobby after a 30 year absence). I'm sure a lot of the fit problems are my own but all in all, the fit is very good.

Thanks for the excellent information on how you attached the canopy and added the metal framing. Absolutely will come in handy. Enjoyed going back to your thread and seeing your Panther finishing up.

Thanks again

Peter

[Guest Peterpools]

Thanks Matt

Much appreciated. What is the difference between Bondo and Milliput, as I never used either?

I'm having a great time building the Panther and if you haven't already bought one, grab one now, as the run and decals are almost gone.

 

Peter

[scvrobeson]

Thanks Matt

Much appreciated. What is the difference between Bondo and Milliput, as I never used either?

I'm having a great time building the Panther and if you haven't already bought one, grab one now, as the run and decals are almost gone.

 

Peter

 

 

AH, the Bondo is actually an automotive putty, but it is very similar to the Squadron stuff in terms of drying time and sandability. I use it because it's more aggressive than the Squadron stuff, so it works well on the resin. Milliput is a two-part epoxy putty, and is much stronger than the Squadron putties, so you can use it for big gaps without having to worry about it shrinking. And it can be smoothed out with water, lowering the amount of sanding to do.

 

 

I have thought about it, I want to do the -2 actually, for the engine grey and yellow scheme. It's just a lot of money, and I'[m trying to save a bit, (college student and all), but maybe someday....

 

Matt

[Guest Peterpools]

Matt

Thanks for the info. Both seem to have some a niche use and I'll be ordering the Miliput and picking up some Bond this weekend. Nothing is more important then your education, it comes first. Kits will always be around one way another.

Thanks for the info

Peter

[scvrobeson]

Matt

Thanks for the info. Both seem to have some a niche use and I'll be ordering the Miliput and picking up some Bond this weekend. Nothing is more important then your education, it comes first. Kits will always be around one way another.

Thanks for the info

Peter

 

 

Glad to help out. Not really niche uses, they can be used for the exact same stuff as the Squadron putties, and have even more uses actually. The Bondo I like for resin work, because it bonds a bit better. It also works well for anything you need a light, feathered edge on the putty. Plus, it's dirt cheap. it cost me about 3 dollars for a huge tube of it, that will last me years probably.

 

 

The Milliput is much more expensive, but I use such a small amount of it at a time, that is balances it out. I think I've had my package of it for about two years now, and aren't even half-way through.

 

 

Thanks man, education is the most important thing, but luckily it's summer break now, so I can work on models for a few months before I have to go back.

 

 

Matt

[Guest Peterpools]

Thanks Matt

Appreciate the info

Peter

[scvrobeson]

Thanks Matt

Appreciate the info

Peter

 

 

Of course. I'm glad to help out. If you check out the Hunter build, the Bondo is the red stuff on the wing root, and the Milliput is the white putty used around the exhaust section. Really enjoying this Panther build, hope to see it done soon, you're sure moving right along on it.

 

 

Matt

[Guest Peterpools]

NAVY BLUE

PT 5

FISCHER F9F-5 PANTHER

DISSASTER AND BACK

 

The Fisher F9F-5 Panther was my first resin kit and by the fourth update, I thought I was flying through the build. About that time, I received my HLJ model stand and once I finished assembling the stand, tested the Panther to see how it fit in the stand. Right there and then, disaster struck. I always assumed the wings were level, square and true but once in the jig, things went downhill very fast. What the old eyes thought was level and true, was off by over a 1/8th of an inch and maybe even closer 3/16th of an inch. Of course, my desire to glue the wings on to withstand a direct hit with Gorilla Epoxy, removed any hope of just snapping the assembly off the fuselage and re-doing it. Depressed and down in the dumps, I hadn’t a clue how to resolve the problem. I decided to just put the Panther down and move onto the Jug project. I left the Panther, out in plain sight in my hobby room, where I would see it every day, as a reminder that I would have to deal with it sooner or later. Since later didn’t seem to come, I went to work on the Jug project. Finally, the light bulb went off, while I was sanding and filling seams on the Jug. It was time to put my plan into action and see what would happen.

 

REMOVING THE WINGS

 

It would be impossible to cut the wings off at the glue line with an X-acto knife, as the epoxy was just way too tough and the resin fuselage was awfully thick. Time for the heavy artillery. My trusty Dremel, with a cutoff disc attached was pressed into action. The disc was thick and would not only cut the wing assembly off, but would create a huge void on both sides of the fuselage just above the wing. Protective eyewear on, I was ready to start (outside on the patio of course, as the resin dust would have been an indoor snowfall of unhealthy dust). Five minutes or so later, the wing assembly was off. Of course, I was still trying to figure out to get everything back together again correctly this time. To make matters worse, it wouldn’t be far from the truth, to say my Resin Surgical Skills with the Dremel was close to a hack job.

Carefully squaring up the Panther in the model jig, small plastic shims were temporarily inserted into the left wing root until the wings squared up. Then I taped the wing assembly to the fuselage at the front and the rear, to hold the wings in the correct alignment. My nerves were shot and it was time for lunch and a break.

Ready to pick up the repair, Gorilla Epoxy was forced into the large gap surrounding the wing assembly at four points to stabilize the wing and to hold it in place. I let the epoxy set up over night but because it was so thick and would need the extra time to cure.

Still plugging ahead, the remaining Grand Canyon gaps needed to be filled and re-enforced at the same time, I decided to switch to J&B Weld Epoxy. A number of batches were mixed up and forced into the gaps.

The surgery is done and the wing assembly is on. Of course, sanding and smoothing out the J&B Epoxy is another matter and up date on its own, as I almost also done with that portion of the repair.

 

Enjoy

Peter