Jump to content
Out2gtcha

Sukhoi SU-30 MKK

Recommended Posts

Just love the amount of detail you are putting into this bird Brian, brilliant :clap2: :clap2:

 

regards

Richard

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Most excellent detail painting, Brian.

 

Sincerely,

Mark

 

Thanks Mark! Actually quite a complement considering some of the detail work youve done on your birds!

 

 

Just love the amount of detail you are putting into this bird Brian, brilliant :clap2: :clap2:

 

regards

Richard

 

Much appreciated words Richard. We all know builds, no matter what they are, nor how little or much detail we put in can hit points where we feel drained and have to push to break through to a point in the build where we DO want to continue......Thankfully this build has not hit that point.......I just need time to work on her!

 

Thanks again for stoppin by guys. Im off to buy some Mothersday cards and gifts, then its back to the cave to work on this girl....

 

Cheers lads,

Brian

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Peterpools

Brian

Just getting on board and, to tell you the truth: I'm speechless! Absolutely incredible. Detail and fidelity are beyond description. Looking forward to learning as I follow along.

 

:popcorn: :clap2: :popcorn:

Peter

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Very crisp painting in those wells my friend, terrific detail and the wash brings out the detail very nicely.

Not a bit of fluff or dust either!

Glad to see you working in a derm-free zone!

 

Keep it up!

 

:thumbsup:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow Brian - Stunning think there will be more metal in this than plastic when she’s finished!!

 

A quick question having just discovered the mystical process of PE bits what glue do you use? I have tried mix glues and supper glue. Supper glue seems to hold but not brilliant. And even dabbing a small bit seems to seep every place but were you wont it. Any pointers would be much appreciated. Ta

 

Happy modelling

 

Comrade Taffski

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Brian

Just getting on board and, to tell you the truth: I'm speechless! Absolutely incredible. Detail and fidelity are beyond description. Looking forward to learning as I follow along.

 

:popcorn: :clap2: :popcorn:

Peter

 

Thanks Pete!

 

Ive seen your Bearcat thread and you have nothing to be speechless about! Great work on my 2nd favorite aircraft of all time! I think Trump really did hit a homer with that thing. I love the Grumman cats and the T-cat is and always will be my number one though. I still have an F8F-2 in my stash with some RR "Gulfhawk 4" decals....cant wait to see Trumpys beast in all its shiny orange glory!

 

f8f1rw_ref00.jpg

 

 

Cheers,

Brian

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Very crisp painting in those wells my friend, terrific detail and the wash brings out the detail very nicely.

Not a bit of fluff or dust either!

Glad to see you working in a derm-free zone!

 

Keep it up!

 

:thumbsup:

 

Thanks man! Considering the work you just did on the Mossie wells thats saying something........

 

Yes, yes, I put on my dust free anti static suit for these. :rolleyes: :lol:

 

B

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow Brian - Stunning think there will be more metal in this than plastic when she's finished!!

 

A quick question having just discovered the mystical process of PE bits what glue do you use? I have tried mix glues and supper glue. Supper glue seems to hold but not brilliant. And even dabbing a small bit seems to seep every place but were you wont it. Any pointers would be much appreciated. Ta

 

Happy modelling

 

Comrade Taffski

 

 

Thanks for the kind words Ta, Much appreciated! As said before, some points of a build like this can get imposing.....as in the one im in now......getting the intakes on this beast straight......blech!

 

Hmmm no real outstanding pointers on PE other than, if im using the PE next to anything that has to remain natural or clear, I use a glue mainly used in the Radio Control (R/C) world:

 

RC 56

 

canopy-glue-rc56.jpg

 

It holds great for a white glue, dries SUPER flexible and very clear.

 

And if the PE is not close to anything that stays natural colored nor any canopy/clear parts, I use CA. In most cases Ive found some CAs work MUCH better than others. Some too think and take too long to dry, some way to thin, nad as you pointed out, get EVERYWHERE when put on.

 

I use a medium CA made specifically FOR plastics, by ZAP called "plastizap":

 

pt19.jpg

 

Its thick enough to stay in place and generally not run everywhere, but thin enough to go where you want. Since its made for plastics, it also tends to have great bite and hold on injection and even resin.

 

HTH and cheers,

Brian

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Peterpools

Brian

Wow! A Gulfhawk. Can't wait until you apply your magic to the Big Cat.

Peter

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Brain - That's spot on info have to see if I can get these or equivalent in the UK. Then with some hope and a lot of finger crossing my metal work wont look such a mess. :rolleyes:

 

Keep it going, can't wait to to see how all that metal joins together!!!

 

Taff

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Arrrrrrg. There is a point in builds where things slooooooooow dooooooooooooooooooooown.

This is kinda sorta that point. Although I am close® to getting this big birds fuse together. Just gotta get through some of these PE type of add ons that take forever to do but add SO much to a build.

I don't usually like to post unless I have some progress but………..it doesn't look like I have any……way I figure this HAS to be progress cause it took about 15 hrs total of BSing, dry fitting and fiddling to get all the crap lined up.

 

Anyhoo, on with the build –

 

Got the wheel bays glued in (more pics of that later after I have some sanding and shaping done on them), but for now, I started back in on the (fairly) complex intakes.

 

Fortunately the SU intakes are squared off and are easily made realistic as to the 1:1 beast without being completely seamless.

 

There are clearly defined and visible internal seams on the real thing –

 

Airintake_1.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

I started in hacking away at the sides of the intakes to recess the Eduard PE vents.

I'm using tymo tape for a pattern that was made with the PE part itself, prior to using a pen to push out the vents

 

LSP_SU30_WIP_120.jpg

 

 

 

Here are the vent pieces after using a pen on the back side to push the louvers out –

LSP_SU30_WIP_121.jpg

 

 

 

LSP_SU30_WIP_122.jpg

 

Quite nice additions really. Has that "Soviet" airframe look, with the ripples in the metal. Just a complete PITA to fit though!

 

 

 

 

Finally got all 4 vet recesses cut out, and somehow managed to save the OEM rivet row directly around the recess as well. May need to be sanded on a bit for fit but you can see here the results –

 

LSP_SU30_WIP_114.jpg

 

 

 

LSP_SU30_WIP_113.jpg

 

 

 

MORE…….

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Funny………..Trumpeter realizes they made a few "boo boos" even on this beast (besides the canopy) and instructions to remove said boo boo clearly written –

 

 

 

LSP_SU30_WIP_112.jpg

 

 

 

So I removed the phantom extrusion and filled the two holes for whatever they were for.

 

 

 

The "pen" process sorta kinda warped the PE so there's a little flare in the piece but fit is actually very good.

 

 

 

LSP_SU30_WIP_123.jpg

 

 

 

I have the Eduard PE intake set for the SU-30, and was going to use it alone, however the joke of it is, Eduard MUST have made their PE pieces early on, before Trumpeter re-did their intakes.

 

You can see here how much smaller (thinner) in dimension the PE parts are VS. the Trumpeter SU-30 intakes –

 

 

 

LSP_SU30_WIP_115.jpg

 

 

 

Soooooo, I took the OOB Trumpy intake piece that had all the screen, and baffles molded right onto it, and dremeled, sanded, and scrape the HE double hockey sticks out of it………then painted it black –

 

 

 

LSP_SU30_WIP_116.jpg

 

 

 

From here after I measured everything, I will fit the PE screen, followed by a grate, then the PE baffles on that, which should complete the look, and hopefully, one will not even be able to tell that's its effectively blacked out.

 

 

 

As im close-ish to fuselage assembly, I got busy with wing assembly. Just last night I started working the Trumpter flap system hinges.

 

Everyone talks about how "fiddly" they are………I guess they just don't have that much dexterity, cause I (so far anyway) found it a fairly good way to get strength without clunky plastic connections. No real probs, just pins and VERY, VERY thick PE –

 

 

 

LSP_SU30_WIP_117.jpg

 

 

 

That's all for now men. As you were, and thanks for stopping by.

 

 

 

Cheers,

 

Brian

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Peterpools

Brian

Some outstanding delicate PE work.

How does Super Z compare to Formula 560 Canopy Glue by Pacer? I would think they are the same.

Peter

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Brian

Some outstanding delicate PE work.

How does Super Z compare to Formula 560 Canopy Glue by Pacer? I would think they are the same.

Peter

 

Thanks Peter. :D

 

I have never tried the 560 formula......... but I would suspect your correct.

The RC56 is quite strong and flexible when dry, like the properties of a good canopy glue should.

 

Brian

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...