Jump to content

Sukhoi SU-30 MKK


Out2gtcha

Recommended Posts

Amazing, waiting for that update was like waiting for a next episode of The Wire (best TV programme ever ® ), small steps, giant leaps! I wouldn't worry about the different weathering techniques used for the inner and outer parts, I'm sure they'll provide a contrast which will look spectacular, got my fingers crossed it runs smoothly.

 

Thanks Andy :D

 

Yeah so far so smooth, but in these cases, I seem to be pushing the envelope of my own PE skill sets here. Sometimes a very frustrating endeavor using pastels and combos of various techniques, as you never actually know what it will all look like in the end..............

and to that end, I am not really even a "jet guy" but some the old schoolish weird, wacky, and wire filled Russian jets hold a fascination. for me, and in this case adding detail to the Flanker like the Pitz cans was way too much for my AMS to let me pass up. :D

 

Ive always liked the Flanker family specifically, as the shape reminds me of a snake, and teh size is just so overwhelming.....................Even though ( IF I finish) I wont win anything at the US Nats, im thinking that even setting on a table full of other models, it will be VERY hard for anyone to ignore a bright pastel yellow aircraft model that is 20 or 30 USinches long.

 

Brian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well mate, you should certianly win a prize for scope of effort. This model is very impressive indeed, and the speed at which you are building it is also amazing. Heck, I'd still be looking at the kit instructions trying to figure out which part to start on at this point!

 

Looking forward to more!

 

Cheers,

 

Doug

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well mate, you should certianly win a prize for scope of effort. This model is very impressive indeed, and the speed at which you are building it is also amazing. Heck, I'd still be looking at the kit instructions trying to figure out which part to start on at this point!

 

Looking forward to more!

 

Cheers,

 

Doug

 

Thanks Doug :D Much appreciated.

Yeah, im not really a "fast" builder by ANY means. The (SERIOUSLY) crazy X just moved out last week after a full year of giving it the Ol college try, so I have had a bit more of my own time to do work on this beast.

 

Honestly, the only reason im on ANY kind of pace at all is the NATs in Aug. I have absolutely no delusions about winning anything, as Im not really a Nationals kind of builder, and that is not really why I want to finish this thing for the NATs......

 

I really just didnt think I may ever get another chance to have my OWN IPMS club host the Nationals and get a model of mine on the same table as some of the best models in the world. Im just hoping if I dont screw things up TO badly, it will at least garner some looks, being a bright yellow pastel (damn near) 2 1/2 foot long model, Im thinking good, bad or indifferent, it will be hard to ignore.

 

Cheers,

Brian

Edited by Out2gtcha
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Peter!

 

Im actually about to (i hope) finish up the exhaust cans before having to return to work tomorrow night............

 

The mild acid solution im using on the now OOP Pitz models exhaust cans is a bit of a scary process, and all im going to say is thank gawd Mirko from Pitz models was kind enough to send some extra PE panels to me..........THANKS MIRKO!!!!

 

Pics to some soon................

 

Brian

Edited by Out2gtcha
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The saga continues………………

 

I spent the better part of this past weekend bouncing between what was left to do on the Pitz Models cans, and putting some paint down on the very nice Master Casters resin wheels.

 

Back to muh cans.

First I tried some experimentation with the antiquing solution, used for red brass, brass and nickel.

 

My first go rounds with this stuff, I tested a piece of the Pitz PE from the kit, (the thickest section that contained the locking rings for the inner exhaust feather parts) in the solution and it had 0 affect.

I mean NOTHING.

It was just a left over PE sprue, but these parts seemed bit thicker than the rest but not by that much. I even left it in overnight, and still NADA. No changes to the part at all.

 

 

So I gave up on the idea of weathering the parts with antiquing solution, and fired that same outer PE petal part with my mini torch……………like a LOT.

I went beyond the heating time where the parts get the cool multi-colored hues to them and fired them up good, and they get a deep gray/titanium look to them that looked VERY cool to my eyes.

Only issue is it did substantially soften the metal, but still usable, just mainly, it took FOREVER to do. VERY tedious and was cool, but not perfect looking by any means.

 

In the midst of that exercise, I decided that maybe…………..just maybe………either because of the previous heat treatment OR because the metals were different materials, that maybe…………..just maybe………..I should give the antiquing solution another go.

I left this PE part in about 1/20th the time I left in the previous part……………like about 18 min (was actually going to pull it out WAY before that, just simply forgot) –

 

LSP_SU30_WIP_182.jpg

 

 

 

OOOPS!

 

 

 

LSP_SU30_WIP_188.jpg

 

 

 

Totally FUBAR.

 

My bad.

 

I really only experimented like this initially because I knew I did have the extra PE Mirko sent me. Thank heaven I did too…….Adding techniques to your modeling rolodex sometimes requires you to step out of your comfort zone…………………….WAY OUT on my case.

This is a great set, but its OOP. One chance to get this right now….

 

Off I went and got a NEW, new plan together.

Changed tack and started off slower with the brand new PE (thinking also it was partially my annealing that made the solution work the way it did) and dipped the PE in all at once, for just a min or two at a time, wiping it off as I went.

 

It worked. WHEW!

 

I started the base process with the inner petal "crown" , as this is what it reminds me of……and masking off a small ring where on the 1:1 bird, the inner and outer exhaust petals mesh, and rub together creating a more noticeable shiny ring on the inner petals –

 

LSP_SU30_WIP_183.jpg

 

 

 

It looks REAL rough at this point, but trust me, I did enough experimentation to know it was going to look fine after a cleaning and a wipe down –

 

LSP_SU30_WIP_184.jpg

 

 

 

You can see here the ring the masking tape left. I removed the tape, and just gave the whole inner ring a once over with 91% alcohol. Still looks way rough at this stage but just hold tight –

 

LSP_SU30_WIP_185.jpg

 

 

 

While the antiquing solution was setting up on the inner petals, I broke out the Master Caster resin wheels.

The set is very nice, and only needed a bit of cleaning up on the inner wheels, and some on the tread. I left a little bit of the tread worn/sanded as some SUs I have observed had treaded wheels, some bald and a couple had a mix of what looked like almost worn out wheels.

 

Most of the time was spent getting the bottoms of the wheels truly flat and square, which they now are –

 

LSP_SU30_WIP_189.jpg

 

 

 

Next up, I shot a bit of paint on them. This is actually a mix of MM Russian green and green Zinc chromate. It looks very light in the pics, but is actually greener than it appears. Ill dry brush these a bit, and put a coat of semi-gloss to represent the mostly shinier wheels on the SU-30s I've seen –

 

LSP_SU30_WIP_179.jpg

 

 

MORE....................

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The antiquing solution had set up to my satisfaction and I resumed the process and plan that I had………….

 

After the solution set up on the main inner petal crown, I cleaned it as you saw previous, and then took a very fine flat sanding stick and went over it in the same direction of the circumference of the exhaust can; IE the same way the exhaust petals would wear on the 1:1 bird.

 

Here is the result –

 

LSP_SU30_WIP_186.jpg

 

 

 

In actuality, other than having sanded off more black than I wanted, its just the look I was going for.

Next up, I hit the outer most exhaust PE pieces with the a fore mentioned antiquing technique, only this time, I put them in for less time and again, wiped them off after several consecutive dunks in the solution.

 

After about 2 or 3 of these dunkings, I prepped and cleaned the two outer most petal panels, and mixed up another batch of JB weld, and smeared a thin layer on the panels after sanding and cleaning the gluing surface.

As before I used zip-ties to make sure everything was true, square and flush. Back under weight to keep things in line –

 

LSP_SU30_WIP_187.jpg

 

 

 

 

After 24 hrs, here are some pics of the results after drying –

 

LSP_SU30_WIP_176.jpg

 

 

 

LSP_SU30_WIP_177.jpg

 

 

 

LSP_SU30_WIP_178.jpg

 

 

 

LSP_SU30_WIP_191.jpg

 

 

 

 

After that round was dry, I snipped the zip ties off, and proceeded to prep the very last two PE panels that are basically aesthetic parts that wrap around the base of the exterior of the outer cans.

There are two layers to this aesthetic layer , so prep of the inner later commenced. You can see I sanded smooth both the gluing surfaces here in prep for more JB Weld. These last two PE panels have no antiquing solution on them and have only been fired slightly to bring out the heat treated reds, greens and golds in the brass –

 

LSP_SU30_WIP_180.jpg

 

 

 

Next up, those two inner panels are smeared with more JB Weld, then zipped and banded up, and under the weight they go again for another 24hrs –

 

LSP_SU30_WIP_181.jpg

 

 

 

 

Now I think I'm off to work on the wheels some more………might have to pick up the pace on this one if I want any kind of realistic chance of having a completed model for the US Nationals in Aug.

 

Thanks lads, and cheers!

Brian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow, those really are the dogs doo-dahs!!

 

Thanks Andy. :D

 

Again one of those things I think looks kick arse in the end, but not sure Id do it over..........or maybe I would now that I actually know what to do... :hmmm:

 

Brian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Geez Brian, that is some amazing work there my friend!

 

Kev

 

Thanks Kev! Kind words always appreciated..........especially as you know, sometimes we pump a lot more work into our hobby than we initially intend to. This is one of those cases............but I do think twill be worth the effort, much like all the extra work put into the Avia!

 

Cheers,

Brian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's looking awesome Brian! The metal exhausts sure look like a ton of work, but you're pulling it off perfectly. Can't wait to see what else you do for them to really set them off, especially with the rest of the kit. Can't wait to see you paint this thing, the yellow should look so cool! :speak_cool:

 

 

Matt

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's looking awesome Brian! The metal exhausts sure look like a ton of work, but you're pulling it off perfectly. Can't wait to see what else you do for them to really set them off, especially with the rest of the kit. Can't wait to see you paint this thing, the yellow should look so cool! :speak_cool:

 

 

Matt

 

Thanks Matt! Comments mucho appreciated. Now you can get on the horse and finish yours! :lol:

 

Cheers,

Brian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...