Christian Posted March 27, 2011 Share Posted March 27, 2011 Introduction I will be attempting to build a 1/32 scale Ju 52 “Schmitti Modelbau” vac-u-form kit. This is my first attempt at building a Vac kit. The kit has been out of production since the 80’s, I was luckily enough to get my hands on one; thanks to Radu. I will be also using a lot of techniques that Iain has done on his 1/32 “Schmitti Modelbau” kit on the Brit Modeller website. I hope you enough reading my journey as I attempt to build a 1/32 Ju 52. The Ju 52 “Schmitti Modelbau” Kit Below are images of the vac kit. The kit will require a lot of scratch building, such as the cockpit, loading area, machine gun turrets, as well the wing spars and internal buck heads. There are some plastic pieces that are missing from the vac kit on the wings and on the fuselage, where the plastic has broken due to age of the kit or the plastic being too thing. I think “I may have bitten more that I can chew.” Since this is my first vac kit; I will start on the small parts that have no damage and require no repair. Wheels I start by marking out the 6 wheel halves with my red ‘sharpie’ marker. I then use my exacto knife with a number 11 blade to cut out the wheel sharps. I hold the knife at a 45 degree angle. Placing a sheet of wet and dry sand paper (240 grit) taped onto the table; I then begin to sand the halves flat. The plastic is very thin and sanding goes quickly. Once the two halves match; I remove the red pen mark by using Methylated spirits and wash in warm soapy water, I then fill both halves with a 2 part model resin. If the resin is poured too high I then sand the resin flush with the outer edge of the wheel. The reasons for the 2 part model resin, is to increase the strength of the model parts as the plastic is very thin and to increase the gluing surface area. Both wheel halves are then glue together using “Zap A Gap CA” glue. Then fill the gaps with putty and wet sanded with 240 grit paper. Alain Gadbois 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted March 27, 2011 Share Posted March 27, 2011 Oh wow, boy will I be following this one! Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csavaglio Posted March 27, 2011 Share Posted March 27, 2011 This is too cool. I can't wait to see it come along. By the way, if you're using a permanent marker for the red pen marks, rubbing alcohol takes it off too. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christian Posted March 27, 2011 Author Share Posted March 27, 2011 This is too cool. I can't wait to see it come along. By the way, if you're using a permanent marker for the red pen marks, rubbing alcohol takes it off too. Chris Thanks for the tip on the rubbing alcohol. I will have to try this out. Regards, Christian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christian Posted March 27, 2011 Author Share Posted March 27, 2011 Horizontal + Elevator and Vertical Stabilizer + Rudder Below are images of the Horizontal and Vertical Stabilizer. The construction process is the similar to the wheels; care must be taken no to over sand the parts as the corrugated edges must met perfectly; as you can not putty these areas. The vertical stabilizer is a little different in the construction process as both halves were glues together first, then spars of solid brass tubing (2.38 mm), have been inserted and glues into position; then the model resin is poured in. The horizontal stabilizers have the same construction process as the vertical stabilizer, however hollow brass tubing (3.18 mm) is used. The brass tubing is cut using a mini pipe cutter. Both left and rights horizontal stabilizers must have the brass tubing in the same location; hence I use 2 lengths of tubing (70mm in length) to join both horizontal stabilizers together, and then cut them into 2 sections. Solid brass spars (2.38mm) will be inserted later when fitting them onto the fuselage. The ends of the brass tubing are taped with masking tape, to stop the model resin from leaking and blocking the tube. Note that the model resin can be poured in to section using a 5 ml syringe, a lot less mess than using a spoon. The brass tube is cut using a fine tooth hack saw blade, and then the brass tube is filed smooth. Note that steel wool of 0000 grade is used to polish the joints and remove excess glues and resin. Completed Horizontal + Elevator and Vertical Stabilizer + Rudder Below are the completed Horizontal + Elevator and Vertical Stabilizer + Rudder. See you later, Christian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamme Posted March 27, 2011 Share Posted March 27, 2011 Hello Christian. That's really interesting. Will folow this WIP with much attention. As I never build a vacform, and I want to I will learn much from this WIP. Chears, Jamme Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wurzacher Posted March 27, 2011 Share Posted March 27, 2011 WOW! That´s courageous: your first vac kit and of all things something complicated as a corrugated Ju 52! My respect, Christian! I still have some vac kits in my stash but did not have the guts to start or even finish one. Your first progress pics look very good and promising! Cool work so far! I´ll follow you with this one! Thomas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssculptor Posted March 27, 2011 Share Posted March 27, 2011 I like the photo of your two assistants. Cute children! Please be careful not to let them breath in the sanding dust or the resin fumes. It is bad enough if we inhale the resin and plastic dust, but we are adults. Stephen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesHatch Posted March 27, 2011 Share Posted March 27, 2011 I can't wait to see this one progress. Lovely work so far. Perhaps I can learn a little something for when I'm brave enough to attempt my Hampden Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldTroll Posted March 27, 2011 Share Posted March 27, 2011 Brilliant techniques. I look forward to your reports on this ambitious build. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oletcherfred Posted March 27, 2011 Share Posted March 27, 2011 A hint on the inking - if you use a "Sharpie" marker, it will remove easily with Isopropyl alcohol(not rubbing alcohol, which has typically 15% water in it)but such as drygas, which is purer. Any residue won't interfere with further processing. Also, rather than soap and water, try Acetic acid(plain household vinegar will work fine) as this lends better adhesion of paint later on. Fingerprints may be removed with the suggested soap and water, above. Use the vinegar last...and rinse and dry, of course. My 2 cents' worth... based on experience in photo-etching, where adhesion and cleanliness are ultra-important. Comment: what an ambitious project! Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csavaglio Posted March 27, 2011 Share Posted March 27, 2011 I just looked at my bottle of "rubbing" alcohol.....it's 91% pure isopropyl. No wonder sharpies don't stand a chance.... Oletcherfred is correct...I don't think plain rubbing alcohol would have the stones for it. Keep up the good work. It's looking great! If you need any pics, I have a small handful from various museums in Europe that may come in handy. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRutman Posted March 27, 2011 Share Posted March 27, 2011 Boy you sure picked a doosey to be your first vac! It will be a trip to make sure all of those grooves are lined up. You made a good start though. Those old Schmidt kits were not too bad and at least included some bare detail parts. Very cool that you have the little ones involved as well. They love being around Daddy at that age so enjoy it while you can! LOL J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christian Posted March 27, 2011 Author Share Posted March 27, 2011 I like the photo of your two assistants. Cute children! Please be careful not to let them breath in the sanding dust or the resin fumes. It is bad enough if we inhale the resin and plastic dust, but we are adults. Stephen Dear Stephen, Thanks on the health and safety tip about the plastic dust. I did not know about the dangers of this dust. I will get dust mask for me and my two children (CJ and Felicity). As for the resin, only I do that, I always do resin mixing and pouring outside and I always wear a respirator spray painting mask. Thanks for that, Christian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kagemusha Posted March 27, 2011 Share Posted March 27, 2011 Very nice start, will you be using the kit engines? Montex produce a suitable resin engine for their Hs-123 and HPH do for their Ar-196, which you may be able to get separately. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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