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Posted

Not being a huge Mosquito fan (don't shoot me! :ph34r: ), I had missed this thread. Glad I finally checked it out, as this is some amazing work. By the way, very clever approach to the landing light reflectors-I've used a similar technique but had never thought of using the thick foil from chocolate coins.

 

Regards;

 

Automaton

Posted

Thanks Brian and Automaton,

 

One thing I forgot to mention regarding the chocolate coin foil, I found that the burnishing tool

only works well giving a mirror like shine on the inside/dull side of the foil.

It doesn't appear to shine up the shiney side of the foil.

Not being a metallurgist I can only assume its because the shiney side has already been shined up in manufacture.

Perhaps our foiling experten may be able to shine a light on this matter?

 

Shiney, shiney shiney! :blink:

 

Phil

Posted (edited)

Hello Phil,

 

Apologies for being late to the party (entirely my loss I assure you) but I was a bit put off by your post title. I dare n't open the thread up in case I was confronted by an excited gentlemans parts... :blush:

However, now that I've been brave I'm glad I did. Truly remarkable craftsmanship. The custom light reflectors are worth the read on their own :speak_cool:

 

Great work mate, keep it up. :bow:

 

:clap2:

Edited by geedubelyer
Posted (edited)

One thing I forgot to mention regarding the chocolate coin foil, I found that the burnishing tool only works well giving a mirror like shine on the inside/dull side of the foil.

It doesn't appear to shine up the shiney side of the foil.

Not being a metallurgist I can only assume its because the shiney side has already been shined up in manufacture.

Perhaps our foiling experten may be able to shine a light on this matter?

 

As we wait for our expert with fancy modeling room to give us some definitive answers, I'll give my take on it. ;)

 

First, I really have no idea how aluminum foil is manufactured, just my common sens :P . I think the shiny side is achieved by coating the foil with something. Notice that this coating can be easily scratched and even sometimes peels off.

Edited by Tomek
Posted

Thanks Brian and Automaton,

 

One thing I forgot to mention regarding the chocolate coin foil, I found that the burnishing tool

only works well giving a mirror like shine on the inside/dull side of the foil.

It doesn't appear to shine up the shiney side of the foil.

Not being a metallurgist I can only assume its because the shiney side has already been shined up in manufacture.

Perhaps our foiling experten may be able to shine a light on this matter?

 

Shiney, shiney shiney! :blink:

 

Phil

 

Pretty much works as the way with real aluminum, when you grain it, it can actually be sanded and gets polished from there. The shiny side probably would be acting the same as the dull side had it been grained or sanded on..........foil always seems to take more kindly to a polish after being grained a bit. Im not sure what that coating prep actually IS on the shiny side but it does prevent further polishing until it is grained off.

 

Looks great Phil!

 

Brian

Posted

Hello Phil,

 

Apologies for being late to the party (entirely my loss I assure you) but I was a bit put off by your post title. I dare n't open the thread up in case I was confronted by an excited gentlemans parts... :blush:

However, now that I've been brave I'm glad I did. Truly remarkable craftsmanship. The custom light reflectors are worth the read on their own :speak_cool:

 

Great work mate, keep it up. :bow:

 

:clap2:

 

Bout time you showed up again and scared the living crap out of the rest of us with your builds.

I've seen that Hawk you are doing. Stop it right now, gonna need anxiety pills soon!!! :evil_laugh:

As for the title wait till you see the torpedo, now that HAS got wood!

 

 

As we wait for our expert with fancy modeling room to give us some definitive answers, I'll give my take on it. ;)

 

First, I really have no idea how aluminum foil is manufactured, just my common sens :P . I think the shiny side is achieved by coating the foil with something. Notice that this coating can be easily scratched and even sometimes peels off.

I think you could be right Tomek, seems the dull side is untreated in some way.

 

Pretty much works as the way with real aluminum, when you grain it, it can actually be sanded and gets polished from there. The shiny side probably would be acting the same as the dull side had it been grained or sanded on..........foil always seems to take more kindly to a polish after being grained a bit. Im not sure what that coating prep actually IS on the shiny side but it does prevent further polishing until it is grained off.

 

Looks great Phil!

 

Brian

 

Thank you foilmeister!

 

I'm pretty much ready to close up the fuselage so I have added some detail to the cockpit sides.

The SAM reference book only has pics of a restoration job without much wiring so I had a look at my Paragon 1/32 resin set to give some ideas.

I havent done too much as I'm mindful that this is going to be under a closed canopy.

I've made it nice and dirty as usual.

Stbd side, added just a big wire bundle over the door:

 

P3153133.jpg

 

Port side, added the pilots oxygen tube which I'll drape across the seat when its together.

The wire for the compass sits behind the ip and I've added wiring to the VHF control box:

 

P3153135.jpg

 

Couple of pics with the cockpit just placed in so you can see its busy enough for my liking:

 

P3153137.jpg

P3153138.jpg

 

Off now to close up the fuse.

Going to need some glue. A LOT of glue!

 

Phil

Posted

NICE...........

 

Love the pit. Nice and busy. Busy even enough for me! :lol: Cant wait to see how much room this beastie starts taking up of the table............

 

B

Posted

Fantastic work Phil! Excellent detail painting my friend. I must build me another one of these modern kits someday!

 

Kev

Posted

NICE...........

 

Love the pit. Nice and busy. Busy even enough for me! :lol: Cant wait to see how much room this beastie starts taking up of the table............

 

Thank you!

In answer to your question, tis 21" from nose to tail. With the wing centre piece clipped in place it weighs about 2 pounds methinks.

 

Fantastic work Phil! Excellent detail painting my friend. I must build me another one of these modern kits someday!

 

Kev

Thanks Kev, sometimes when you are looking through 20 sprues looking for a piece you often wish for a "quieter" build!

 

Got the fuse halves together using mainly plastic glue.

I like to use a fair bit so I get a bit of an ooze from the seam ensuring no holes hence all the bandages.

Had to use a bit of thin ca around the nose area to wrestle a couple of seams together.

Centre wing is just clipped in at the moment.

 

P3153141.jpg

 

There seems to be a bit of "smutty" innuendo with certain parts of this build especially the title so perhaps its best to get some more over and done with.

 

Here's the TR33 radome nose.

Bet I can guess what a lot of people are thinking when they first see it???

Remind you of anything?

 

P3153143.jpg

 

There is a bit of a fit issue top to bottom.

If its lined up underneath the top is a bit proud.

If you line the top up there is a lot of detail underneath which will go fairing it in and it doesn't line up to the kit fuse sides.

So taking the lesser of two evils I'll line it up underneath and fair in the top.

 

I mixed up some epoxy to fix in my id lights and as usual made too much so I fixed the three pieces of the torpedo together.

It still needs the fins and props adding but its important to note that it really IS eight inches!!!!

 

P3153146.jpg

 

Phil

Posted

That's quite a torpedo you have there Phil!

 

Cockpit looks awesome as always. Hopefully I will get back on #2 soon.

Posted

Ah, Phil, that's real modeling. I think I need to hide under some rocks...

Pure pleasure to watch!

 

 

Here's the TR33 radome nose.

Bet I can guess what a lot of people are thinking when they first see it???

Remind you of anything?

P3153143.jpg

 

 

:hmmm: it reminds me .... err ... never mind :blush: :innocent:

Posted (edited)

Thanks for the repiles Gents.

 

More nipple pictures!

 

I fixed the resin nose on, lining it up at the bottom.

As predicted I have a very large gap at the top.

The bottom has lined up pretty well:

 

P3163148.jpg

 

There's a wee bit of fettling to get the kit cannon trough piece to sit a bit snugger but nothing too bad.

 

Here's the real problem.

I haven't got much thickness to play with.

 

P3163149.jpg

 

I should have put a big lump of milliput inside before fixing but I managed to squeeze some through the gap.

 

Side profile:

 

P3163151.jpg

 

The lower vertical panel line will be filled but I had to try and preserve the horizontal line and the vertical panel line

running over the top of the nose.

Luckily my neighbours are used to seeing me standing in the garden wearing a respirator sanding lumps of resin.

There's a molded raised panel on the nose which will be lost so I made a replacement out of 10thou card which I'll fix on later.

 

I had to completely re-profile the nose and I've sanded just below the kit fuse to allow for the card panel to line up flat.

It will also hopefully give me back the panel line.

I've sanded so much off that the milliput is visible.

 

P3173153.jpg

 

Two small holes appeared on either side so a good squirt of thick ca inside and a dose of rocket powder have ensured

its still secure.

 

Next job will be to fill the lower panel lines and the holes, then fix the card panel but its nearly there.

 

Phil

Edited by PhilB
Posted

Filled all the unwanted panel lines.

Rescribed the ones I wanted to keep.

Fitted the replacement raised panel from card:

 

P3183154.jpg

 

After first shot of primer:

 

P3183157.jpg

 

Phil

Posted

Looking better and better Phil,

Maybe a daft question, but what paint do you use for primer ?

 

Regards

Martyn

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