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75 Sqn RNZAF Mosquito Detailed Build


Anthony in NZ

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5 hours ago, turbo said:

Great looking detail Anthony!

Thanks very much!  Been looking down a magnifier too long...cant see in the distance very well now LOL

 

2 hours ago, Lothar said:

Sublime work, nothing more to add....

Lothar

Thank you very much, that is very encouraging to me as I have found it tough work to bring up to a better standard.  Although to be fair this kit still is a cracker built as it is.

 

Thanks for your likes and comments guys, for such a long build this really encourages me.  I am hoping one day it will all come together really quickly after these 'hard yards' are done!

 

Cheers Anthony

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2 hours ago, shark64 said:

I keep looking at this amazing progress but someone i am missing the photos with the main rotor...LOL

Oh LOL...….trust you to spot that!! :rofl:  I WILL get back to the BK sooner rather than later!

 

8 hours ago, RonGUSA said:

Hey Anthony 

 Looks great. I  have a question though? Aren't there supposed to be rivets on the flanges around the cannon openings? I'm not being picky, just curious.

Ron G 

Ron, not much gets past your beady eyes do they mate?  Yes you are indeed correct.  In fact I have a panel line to scribe on the tips of each one.  The issue I have is that I have to find a balance of what rivets I show.  The reason these ones around the cannon opening troughs aren't pressed in is because these troughs are steel and the whole panel was filled and sanded smooth as you can see with Tony Agars HJ711 below

M6Z1Dg.jpg

 

 In the photo below of the actual airframe I am modelling, you can see where the filler has swelled with moisture and time and they become visible again.  There are some mushroom head rivets to go on the tips as well, trouble is (same with the nose panel) is that the Archer rivets I have just look a little oversize, or somehow to my eye don't look quite right.  I am experimenting at the moment on those round head screws on the nose cap cover and fronts of the gun troughs.  I am just going through my decal spares, I am pretty sure I have some smaller Archer rivets somewhere.

Jxqv6h.jpg

I guess the problem I don't want to end up with is that when I finish it, it dosent look like a pin cushion with holes and circles all over the airframe.  I only want them noticeable if you peer in close to the model.    I have to stack a pile of magnifiers on, and scratch the screw slots in some of the bigger access panels....maybe LOL

 

Thanks for checking in and asking questions why Ron, I definitely don't see it as picky!  You are keeping me honest....I appreciate it, as I do all feedback

 

Cheers Anthony

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Base coat of green on and first cross tube painted silver.

 

The green still needs more work and lightening, I have kinda like black based it if that makes sense?

Got to figure out how to paint those gun pneumatic lines at the back somehow???:help:

JuBolr.jpg

 

 

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6 hours ago, John1 said:

Great modeling AND photography skills.  How do you get such clear pictures?   

Oh John, take no note of my photography skills, I am the worlds worst.  I tried DSLR and depth of field was crap, so just use my iPhone (its only a 6S+) and try for some natural light.

 

Here is a classic example of how crap I am, just took this for you....and I tried to do a good job! LOL

 

75c4EP.jpg

Er2TtX.jpg

 

see...

 

Edited by Anthony in NZ
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Anthony, on your DSLR, switch the mode to aperture priority and set the aperture (f-stop - to the highest possible number, i.e. smallest possible aperture).  This will give you the greatest depth of field to ensure all your image will be in focus.  This will make your shutter speed longer, so you may need to use image stabilisation on your lens or a tripod.  If you don't have a remote control for your shutter release, you can use the timer.  You can increase the ISO to compensate, but that will give a grainier picture, so a low ISO number will also help with sharpness.

 

Keep up the wood work - it's a treat to see!

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On 5/6/2020 at 8:25 PM, jenshb said:

Anthony, on your DSLR, switch the mode to aperture priority and set the aperture (f-stop - to the highest possible number, i.e. smallest possible aperture).  This will give you the greatest depth of field to ensure all your image will be in focus.  This will make your shutter speed longer, so you may need to use image stabilisation on your lens or a tripod.  If you don't have a remote control for your shutter release, you can use the timer.  You can increase the ISO to compensate, but that will give a grainier picture, so a low ISO number will also help with sharpness.

 

Keep up the wood work - it's a treat to see!

Thanks for that, I might revisit it in the near future and see if I can do a better job...advice taken!

 

In the meantime I have been getting all the gun bay main components sorted and hope to start painting some more of these bits.  Once they are all set up I can then start making some terminal blocks and a supressor box so I can finish off all the wiring and plumbing, then some decals

NhjeXI.jpg

 

0ieHZq.jpg

 

Thanks for looking in as always

 

Cheers Anthony

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 5/11/2020 at 12:27 PM, Captain Boogaloo said:

Wowee, that's Tamiya level of detail: your nose gun bay is going to be quite superb. I can't believe no one has put this exquisite bit of casting into production! Keep 'em coming, Anthony!

Blue Skies!

Captain Boogaloo

Thank you very much, that's what I am aiming for!

More progress, although you cant see them in the photo's very well (if at all) I have made terminal blocks that the lamp is wired into, plus a suppressor box behind that, with wiring already started.  

The .303's are fitted permanently and given a bit of a wash and graphite rubbed on etc.  Now I have to wire up the last of the pneumatic lines for the firing solenoids.  After that I need to glue in the wiper motor, Impact and Gravity switches ready for wiring up as well.  That part scares me, all those tiny wires.....

 

The nose cap is obviously  not glued on yet, but the .303's sat in place and lined up perfectly central through each opening/port when nose cap placed firmly on.

I still have to do a couple of 'tweaks' to the rivet detail before I will be happy

 zjalak.jpg

 

JkQDhA.jpg

 

65KXfW.jpg

 

Still lots to do in here, but 'slow and steady wins the race' they say.

 

Roberts gun bay set is absolutely gorgeous I must say....thank you sir!

 

Cheers Anthony

 

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Anthony,

 

Masterclass building and detailing my friend! Absolutely amazing. If, in the end, you don’t like how it turns out I’ll be more than happy to take it off your hands. I’ll even pay for shipping! :D

 

Cheers,

Wolf

Edited by Wolf Buddee
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